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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my CAD with a 1 piece TJ shaft so now my front driveshaft spins all the time. I also have a 1" shackle lift that threw the pinion yoke off a bit. This jeep has been sitting for years because i got sick of jeeps and took a 8 year vacation from dealing with them. But now i have gotten most of the stuff that has needed fixed done so i want to get the front driveshaft back in it.

I have not measured the angles of the yokes yet and i will do it when i get the chance to. But i remember the output on the transfer-case being pointed down about 5*. So that means that the front yoke will be pointed up about 5* and i think that the front axle pinion yoke was pointed up about 5*.

So how would i go about getting this back in spec? My first thought would be to shim the front axle back into spec to make up for my 1" shackle lift and it should fix 2 problems my caster and my driveshaft angle. But 2 yoke pointed up at 5* seems like it would not work. Would it even be possible to run a CV shaft in the front of this with a pinion pointed up at 5*?
 

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I'd have to see a photo. I'm not sure there would be enough clearance for the double cardan joint in the skid plate. I've thought about it for me personally...

I'm currently running my original driveshaft. I just wire wheeled it, painted it, cleaned the grease out of the slip, replace the grease fitting, and put new Spicer u joints in there.

I set my angle by pointing the pinion at the output shaft of the transfer case. I was starting from scratch so I welded new perches on. That's the best option but I think shims will do for now.

I know that the pinion should be about a degree low on the rear, to account for axle wrap. On the front, applying the same logic would mean you should put the pinion a degree high. But I'm not entirely sure how to set it up correctly...

Pictures would help when you describe this, it's hard to visualize.

Front angle:



Rear angle:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am mostly interested in what angle the driveshaft is supposed to operate at. The reason the driveshaft is out of it is because i installed a new Tom Woods driveshaft and the vibration caused the splines to wear out and the driveshaft wiggled. I just want to set my pinion angle right before i order a new shaft. I regret the The CAD delete TJ shaft mod because now the damn thing spins all the time so i have to get it right or it will ruin another driveshaft.
 

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KISS....Simply reinstall the CAD and use the original driveshaft.

If after 8 years the original parts are gone, I expect you could find a complete axle for cheap and if the seller has installed a D60 or something, he should have the original driveshaft too.

I'll bet reinstalling the original setup will be a whole lot less expensive than a Tom Woods driveshaft.

Attached are a couple pics of the front driveshaft angle on my Jeep. I have new stock height heave duty springs from general Spring.
No shackle lift.
The angle finder reads 0, so I am thinking that's the degree you are looking for.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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THIS^

When you realize you made a mistake, fix it...

Everyone seems to think cad is the devil and has to be removed.... my yj has almost 300,000 miles on it and I wheel the piss out of it and while I've broken a bunch of stuff I've never broken the cad....
I have replaced the servo, fork, and switch doing preventative maintenance.... all cheap....

What's more..... I'm shopping for an early model cherokee cad axle for my tj and plan to add the other parts including putting the syncro assy in my t case.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To be honest i would rather just leave the front driveshaft out of it than hook the CAD back up. I don't really wheel it anymore i just kinda missed the old jeep and wanted to get it back into working condition. I just thought if i could shim the front axle back into spec i could throw a driveshaft in it without out it wanting to vibrate its self out again.

I regret a lot of the mods i made to my jeep it just turned it into a cluster*^%# of shit that dont work together and is in constant state of ruining parts. Now i am remembering why i parked it and quit dumping money into it for 8 years maybe it's time to do it again.
 

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You state that "You would rather just leave the front driveshaft out of it than hook the CAD back up".
Then you go on to state "You don't really wheel it anymore".

Why not simply enjoy driving the Jeep with the front driveshaft out?
Am I missing something?

If you feel compelled to have a front driveshaft, bear in mind, it'll be relatively simple to change the angle of the pinion with shims at the spring perches. In order to get a 0* angle, the TC and the pinion have to be pointing directly at one another. How might you change the output angle of the TC?

Not knowing what size tires you are running, you could get rid of your 1" shackle lift and go back to stock shackles. Then a $189.00 Tom Woods driveshaft should work or perhaps a TW heavy duty shaft for $219.00, assuming that you have stock height springs.

Keep us posted on how things go for you.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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The XJ D30 I'm building had a pinion angle of 4* with the coil buckets at 0*. My thinking is that you might try posting in the TJ section and see if one of them has a stock config they can measure for you.

Another thought is to call Tom Woods and talk to him. He does have a bit of familiarity with YJ's and TJ's. :)
 

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I just measured my D30 a few weeks ago and the pinion was at 6* with the perch at 0*.
 

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I am mostly interested in what angle the driveshaft is supposed to operate at. The reason the driveshaft is out of it is because i installed a new Tom Woods driveshaft and the vibration caused the splines to wear out and the driveshaft wiggled. I just want to set my pinion angle right before i order a new shaft. I regret the The CAD delete TJ shaft mod because now the damn thing spins all the time so i have to get it right or it will ruin another driveshaft.
Setting up a double carden driveshaft, you want the pinion about a degree lower than the driveshaft.

See the photo of my rear axle. The clean photo... That's an ideal setup. The pinion is nearly straight with the driveshaft but it's lowered a little bit to account for axle wrap.



This shows the pinion even with the driveshaft. My research tells me to lower it a degree but that's up to you.

With a standard driveshaft with a single u joint on each end, I believe you want the pinion PARALLEL to the output shaft of the transfer case.



As for the CAD debate, I have personally run both setups. With my Spartan locker, I strongly prefer to not have a CAD. The reason is that my locker is constantly locked in 4wd. When I hit the gas, the Jeep turns to one side. When I hit the brake, it turns to the other. I can't drive on the street like that. It was described to me that this is because of "play" in the splines of the shift collar.

I can not say my axle was properly set up (passed through so many hands who knows), or if my locker was malfunctioning, but I can say that my locker will actually unlock in 2wd and I don't have any issues with the front axle locking up.

I can also say that someone in our Jeep club has a D30 without the CAD. He pulls an axle shaft to drive on the street because his locker doesn't unlock, then plugs up the fluid in the axle tube.

To each his own, I'm just giving you my experience with both setups. I'm not going to make any claims on the strength of each setup, I don't think the CAD is "weak" like so many people do.
 

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I'd have to see a photo. I'm not sure there would be enough clearance for the double cardan joint in the skid plate. I've thought about it for me personally...

I'm currently running my original driveshaft. I just wire wheeled it, painted it, cleaned the grease out of the slip, replace the grease fitting, and put new Spicer u joints in there.

I set my angle by pointing the pinion at the output shaft of the transfer case. I was starting from scratch so I welded new perches on. That's the best option but I think shims will do for now.

I know that the pinion should be about a degree low on the rear, to account for axle wrap. On the front, applying the same logic would mean you should put the pinion a degree high. But I'm not entirely sure how to set it up correctly...

Pictures would help when you describe this, it's hard to visualize.

Front angle:



Rear angle:

Ahhhhh... you better take a look at your leaf spring. It's bent pretty bad!
 

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Ahhhhh... you better take a look at your leaf spring. It's bent pretty bad!
It's fixed, that was just the only photo I had of my front pinion angle. Don't worry, it was on the trailer...

 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK i finally went and got actual measurements the front axle pinion is at about 7* and the transfer-case is at about 3*. The transfer-case surprises me because when i installed the NV4500 i set the skid up to have it at 5* so it's moved a bit maybe worn engine mounts idk...

So there is a difference of about 4*. and i took a mock piece of straight wood and checked the angle and right now 7* points over the transfer-case yoke a bit. When i hold it at about 5* it points pretty much directly at the transfer case yoke. I think if i buy a 2* steel shim and put my pinion back at about 5* it should help things. I guess i will call up a drive shaft shop and ask them if they would recommend a standard driveshaft or a CV. I would think that a CV would work since TJ's ran them with no vibrations and my mock up seems to be pointing pretty much straight at it.
 

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If you're using a cv then the tcase angle doesn't matter as long as it isn't so extreme as to cause binding...

Also don't add any angle to compensate for axle wrap.... there won't be any in the front axle on the street in 2wd
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you're using a cv then the tcase angle doesn't matter as long as it isn't so extreme as to cause binding...

Also don't add any angle to compensate for axle wrap.... there won't be any in the front axle on the street in 2wd

I am not shimming the axle for axle wrap i am shimming it to get my pinion back to where it is supposed to be and for my caster that my lift shackles messed up. I just replaced all of the tie rods and put new spring bushings in and the front end is tight now. I thought my steering would improve but it got more twitchy and i think it's because of my camber is off due to the shackle lift.
 

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I'm with ya.... someone else said to add 1.5* for axle wrap which is true for the rear but not the front... i just wanted to clarify for ya
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I talked to a guy at Tom Wood's and he seemed to think my plan would work and suggested the CV shaft with the X/XB splined shaft so that's what im going to do.

He told me that i would need to order a new transfer-case yoke for the CV shaft. I told him i had already drilled out my old yoke to run u bolts instead of straps and asked if that would be sufficient. He told me that the bolt holes are in a slightly different location on the CV yoke so i guess i will be buying one of those to... I have spent to much money on this thing to stop now
 

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On CV shafts there are threaded caps over the U joints, I guess they're in different locations as the rep said.

Care to compare the two side by side? I'd like to see if that's the case.
 
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