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my front locker light always flashing but I've checked and it always locks...when I got 04 rubi 7 months ago I changed all fluids with synth.they all looked ok except the diffs.that fluid looked nasty....could the lil mushroom button just be stuck.i could pull the cover off and spray with brake cleaner...all wires look good both pumps turn off in 2 seconds so no leaks and I've check it on jack stands and driven in dirt an out rock crawl an they lock...maybe jus not worry bout the light since I don't lock the front very often....
 

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my front locker light always flashing but I've checked and it always locks...when I got 04 rubi 7 months ago I changed all fluids with synth.they all looked ok except the diffs.that fluid looked nasty....could the lil mushroom button just be stuck.i could pull the cover off and spray with brake cleaner...all wires look good both pumps turn off in 2 seconds so no leaks and I've check it on jack stands and driven in dirt an out rock crawl an they lock...maybe jus not worry bout the light since I don't lock the front very often....
The lock sensor with the button head may be bad or it may not be properly engaged over the edge of the carrier (locker). If anyone removed and then replaced the locker/carrier without knowing how to get the sensor properly positioned beforehand the sensor might be hung up or damaged.
 

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my front locker light always flashing but I've checked and it always locks...when I got 04 rubi 7 months ago I changed all fluids with synth.they all looked ok except the diffs.that fluid looked nasty....could the lil mushroom button just be stuck.i could pull the cover off and spray with brake cleaner...all wires look good both pumps turn off in 2 seconds so no leaks and I've check it on jack stands and driven in dirt an out rock crawl an they lock...maybe jus not worry bout the light since I don't lock the front very often....

I think this is the question (in red). Although the entire post is couched as a comment, there is uncertainty spread throughout. I don't know enough about the lockers to be able to help or assure the poster.
 

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so jerry do you think it's worth opening up and looking at or just run like it is
Absolutely yes, you need to determine what's going on. If that sensor is hung up from being out of position it can damage the locker by causing it to be only partially engaged/disengaged.

The object with the red object in it is the sensor. That red object is a short length of toothpick temporarily inserted into it to hold the sensor fully extended against its spring while the carrier/locker is reinserted. That short length of toothpick also needs a short length of fishing line tied to it. Once the carrier is back in place the fishing line is pulled to remove the piece of toothpick to release the sensor so its button is properly positioned on the far side of the locker's actuator plate.

If the sensor's button tip is on the wrong side of the locker's actuator plate it will prevent the locker's actuator from moving properly which can cause the locker to only partially engage or disengage. The toothpick holds the sensor open far enough so the locker's actuator plate will be properly positioned under the button head. When the locker engages, it moves to the left in the below illustration pulling the sensor button left to signal to the computer that the locker is fully engaged.
 

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Absolutely yes, you need to determine what's going on. If that sensor is hung up from being out of position it can damage the locker by causing it to be only partially engaged/disengaged.

The object with the red object in it is the sensor. That red object is a short length of toothpick temporarily inserted into it to hold the sensor fully extended against its spring while the carrier/locker is reinserted. That short length of toothpick also needs a short length of fishing line tied to it. Once the carrier is back in place the fishing line is pulled to remove the piece of toothpick to release the sensor so its button is properly positioned on the far side of the locker's actuator plate.

If the sensor's button tip is on the wrong side of the locker's actuator plate it will prevent the locker's actuator from moving properly which can cause the locker to only partially engage or disengage. The toothpick holds the sensor open far enough so the locker's actuator plate will be properly positioned under the button head. When the locker engages, it moves to the left in the below illustration pulling the sensor button left to signal to the computer that the locker is fully engaged.
Hi Jerry, I am confused about how the lockers work. Just this past weekend we were changing front axle seals on my '04 Rubicon. We got tripped up by this plunger sensor you mention, until we learned about the fishing line trick. Using the fishing line trick, I think we got the plunger positioned on the far side of the lip, but I don't understand what is actuating the locker. I saw there is something on the big gear assembly that looks/acts like a clutch plate, but all I see in the differential is this sensor, nothing that would actuate the locker back and forth.
 

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front locker on '04 Rubicon

Absolutely yes, you need to determine what's going on. If that sensor is hung up from being out of position it can damage the locker by causing it to be only partially engaged/disengaged.

The object with the red object in it is the sensor. That red object is a short length of toothpick temporarily inserted into it to hold the sensor fully extended against its spring while the carrier/locker is reinserted. That short length of toothpick also needs a short length of fishing line tied to it. Once the carrier is back in place the fishing line is pulled to remove the piece of toothpick to release the sensor so its button is properly positioned on the far side of the locker's actuator plate.

If the sensor's button tip is on the wrong side of the locker's actuator plate it will prevent the locker's actuator from moving properly which can cause the locker to only partially engage or disengage. The toothpick holds the sensor open far enough so the locker's actuator plate will be properly positioned under the button head. When the locker engages, it moves to the left in the below illustration pulling the sensor button left to signal to the computer that the locker is fully engaged.
Hi Jerry, I am confused about how the lockers work. Just this past weekend we were changing front axle seals on my '04 Rubicon. We got tripped up by this plunger sensor you mention, until we learned about the fishing line trick. Using the fishing line trick, I think we got the plunger positioned on the far side of the lip, but I don't understand what is actuating the locker. I saw there is something on the big gear assembly that looks/acts like a clutch plate, but all I see in the differential is this sensor, nothing that would actuate the locker back and forth.
 

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The locker actuator plate that pulls on the sensor has a rubber air bladder inside it. The rubber tube connected to it gets 5 psi worth of air pressure sent to it from the compressor on the skidplate. That's what locks it, the actuator's air bladder expands and pushes its metal outer plate against the locker to lock it.
 

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Check the wiring to the switch, too, mine keeps getting torn up by branches and downed trees on the trail (sometimes I just drive over them if they’re small enough, winching them out of the way takes too much time. Right now both of mine just flash but that’s only been going on for a few months or so. They definitely engage, it’s easy to tell by the traction and the feel in the steering wheel. I’ve never had the rear diff out so an improperly installed switch isn’t the problem.
 
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Double tap.
 
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