Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

Front speaker install, NO dissassembly required!

10K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  IRQ 
#1 ·
Ok, today I bought Polk 460 Marine speakers 4x6 at Bestbuy to replace my nasty non working dash speakers on my '91 YJ. There are tons of threads on putting the windshield down, taking apart the dash etc.
so I attacked the project with the intention to do the switch without disassembling anything and I DID! It wasn't easy but is doable. And since I have man sized hands I had a female friend with cute petite hands help with to top right and left screws.
Passenger was pretty easy and straight forward.
Drivers side obviously challenging due to E-brake and wiring harnesses.
Basically we shoved our hands into the narrow cavity pushing the wire harnesses out of the way and did manage to get 3 out of 4 nuts back on.
Due to the tweeter on the speakers protruding beyond the front face I had to cut a bic pen into 1/2" pieces to make a spacer. Worked like a charm.
So there you have it. 2 hours and speakers are done! Make sure you put your girlfriend to work and get her hands dirty!
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#3 ·
Thanks ;). Yes. Was definitely man vs jeep challenge. MAN won!! And yes. Stock speakers.
Think I might put up for auction for the nastiest speaker contest.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
Good job on the speakers! Looks like a pretty sweet deal on the sub/amp. I'm reluctant to put any quality audio components in mine, cause it's only going to attract thieves. Even if you make it tamper proof, it still draws them in.
 
#6 ·
Thanks CDennyRun. Was a pain to install but they are done and sounding good.
Reason I am thinking to put sub/amp under seat is you won't see it. Also if it is little visible I may run my seat cover that runs under the seat over the amp to hide even more. It's only 4" deep.
I also run my YJ with no doors so keeping things safe is vital. You can't steal what you can't see. :)
 
#8 ·
stuntmansjeep said:
Is there a big difference in sound quality and volume between the stock and after market ones?
The dash speakers did not work when I bought my jeep so can't say. Being 22 years old would have sounded horrible compared to today's speakers.
Sound bar speakers were "OK" but not great. Couldn't go beyond volume 12 before it was distorted.
The Polk DXi 460 & DXi 525's are fantastic. Marine grade as well. Couldn't be happier given budget.
As for volume I can go to "26" no problem and no distortion. Plenty loud for a jeep. I am not into waking up the neighbors when driving. It's like a woman who wears too much perfume. It's better when you up and close.
If you haven't replaced your dash speakers I highly recommend it. Patience and nimble fingers, female assistant for ones man hands won't fit.
In hindsight I would suggest replacing stock nuts with wing nuts for easier tightening. I may replace mine down the road.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
94Wrangler- nice! They definitely have come up in quality over the years. I wanted to do 6 1/2 in rear but not enough clearance. Oh well. I'm happy. Done front speakers yet?
 
#14 ·
Yes I did the same ones you did up front. My sound bar is the 6 speaker one and the polk 6.5's worked. I rewired my speakers with 14ga speaker wire to each speaker and all the wires in the bar. That really helps :punk:
 
#11 ·
Nice Job!

I wish I would have had a set of small hands around when I did mine. But I did need to replace the front cowl seal so it wasn't to bad. I only had a couple of hours into it too for the total job but I have a rust free YJ so I don't run into the locked up bolts and stripped out heads.

It is nice to have decent speakers. Looking forward getting something in the back to mount a couple of 6 X 9's.

cb
 
#12 ·
CB, killed 2 birds 1 stone! Great on no rust. I have little here and there but nothing major. Not looking forward to body mount and suspension switch tho. Rust or no rust those buggars can be a pain!
Love the new tunes. Soon to add the Kicker amp/ sub in one combo!
 
#13 ·
Nice. Good idea with the pen - but you make me feel like I wasted nuts, rotfl.

I actually am in the middle of the same project. I went to get a HU at Crutchfield sunday and they had a good deal on infinity reference 4x6s, so I went for it. Their printout tells you to install them without pulling the dash. I did have to pull the screws on the pass side to fit my big hand up to the top outer nut, but that 1/2" made all the difference. (didnt think to make her do it, doh!) Haven't had a chance to get the drivers yet, they say just pull the ebrake nuts from the firewall and slip it out of the way, then bam. I ran out of light to get there, but it looks feasable. Makes me wish I had done this long ago, it isn't as big as I had heard.

Also put a JVC Arsenal HU they had on clearance, and some Blapunkt 4s for the sound bar. Frankenstein, but it sounds good. Also picked up some oxyfree copper for some electric upgrades/accys.

I love living near Crutchfield.
 
#15 ·
Nice job Blueridge. Pen idea was a definite MacGyver moment of brilliance. You don't need to unbolt the E-brake. Just be careful when sliding the new speaker into place and give the massive wire harness a tender SHOVE out of the way. When all is said and done make sure harness connections are solid or said girl will have to push jeep to bump start it (not that that happened to me, just saying LMAO!) ignition wire was loose.
94Wrangler, now I wish I ran 14 gauge wire to mine. Next weeks project!
Ok guys question on soundbar, I also have the 6 speaker sound bar. But how do I get the tweeters to tweet?
 
#16 ·
Cool, thanks. Hmm, girls smart enough to bump start a jeep... nice. ;)

IDK, I got (2) 4" speakers in my soundbar. Pretty sure we're gonna change that.
 
#17 ·
@BlueRidgeYJ, Well yes she is but like a uncooth gentleman, I had her do the pushin. lol She did manage tho. And she is 110 lbs soaking wet!

I have 2 5 1/4 speakers on the out sides and insides I think are 2x3" and 2x2" but those do not do anything other than sit there. Suggestions? Maybe I can hook up some super mini subs up there, lol
 
#18 ·
Lol, I thought you were saying she pushed started it all by her self. Like pushed, then jumped in and started it.

You are gonna want some 5 &1/4 (unless you can fit 6.5) and some little guys with a crossover to control the distribution. But I am not the guy to ask.
 
#20 ·
BlueRidgeYJ said:
Lol, I thought you were saying she pushed started it all by her self. Like pushed, then jumped in and started it.
Dude, if she could do that I would marry her in a second! Be a keeper.
 
#21 ·
Korringadinga said:
Dude, if she could do that I would marry her in a second! Be a keeper.
I know, right! That should be a requirement on the 4th date, lmao.

Got my driverside put in yesterday, no ebrake removal required. Thanks again.
 
#22 ·
BlueRidgeYJ said:
I know, right! That should be a requirement on the 4th date, lmao.

Got my driverside put in yesterday, no ebrake removal required. Thanks again.
Haha! New forum string ;)

Awesome! Soooo much easier to just have some patience and nimble fingers. Did you put factory nuts back on or do wingnuts? I wish I did, makes re tightening them oh, so much easier. Bet you can't wait to try them out.
Another thing I noticed. The way to console is laid out and position of speakers, the car next to you gets more sound than you do with the deflection off the console. You will see what I mean. :(
 
#23 ·
Diggin' up the dead threads!

OK, quick question for those that have tackled this job, and survived...
What size were the nuts holding the speakers? Would a nut driver be the best choice for removing them?
 
#24 ·
Speakers I used were Polk DB461p & DB401, use 4x6 speakers baffles like these it will make a world of difference

  • To replace dash speakers
  • Remove torx screws & windshield brackets above speakers
  • Remove torx screws on the outer edges of the dash where speakers are
  • Remove the outer most bolts connecting the sun visors and swing out of the way
  • Remove screws that connect plastic pillars on windshield for soft top & (gently) remove
  • Remove torx bolts that connect windshield to rollbar
  • lube up windshield hinges if they are rusty, let sit for a time.. and (gently) fold down
  • Remove all Phillips screws on top of dash and torx screws
  • Remove speedo cluster bezel, the indicator plate comes off separately (clipped on)
  • To the right of the E-Brake theres a silver plate that a harness is connected to dash bottom with 2 screws, remove that and let it hang
  • Now the tricky part, find 2 boxes or something a tad higher than from the floorboard to just under the dash bottom bend.. you will use these to support the dash when you pull it out, be gentle move out a small amount on each side (swapping side to side) until you get a workable distance (note that you do not want the indicator bezel resting on the steering column) ensure you have proper support under it.
  • Remove factory clips to the speakers these are a pain btw
  • Remove the 4 fake nuts from the speakers (I used just a 9mm deep socket with out the ratchet)
  • If you are using the Polks, use factory speaker as a guide and dremel to fit
  • while you have this all being done, replace your windshield seal or if its in good condition like mine was I just shot it with silicone
If you are not soldering use Posi connectors instead of nuts or crimps, yes they cost more but its worth it for connection you don't have to worry about.. or get metra speaker 72-1002 harnesses like I did.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top