Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
691 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago a squeak developed on the drivers side front suspension of my 2014 JKUR (TF Performance Leveling Kit, stock shocks). Big bumps definitely cause it but simply going off the curb at the end of my driveway can cause it if I'm going a little fast.

I finally found the cause; the sway bar is rubbing on the round tube that protrudes from the frame. See picture below. You can see the lower left part of the tube has been ground down by the sway bar pretty good.

So, I'll probably grind down that tube. Looked at the other side and it is tight on that side too but not rubbing. Anyone else have this problem? It wasn't that way when I got it. Do the sway bars shift around a little in the rubicon e-disco mechanism or something?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
I just did a .75 leveling on mine and the sway bar still pretty much sits at 90* and farther away from the tube than yours. You must have used longer sway bar end links in yours and why it's closer to the frame. Like it was said, just grid the tube down.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
691 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I just did a .75 leveling on mine and the sway bar still pretty much sits at 90* and farther away from the tube than yours. You must have used longer sway bar end links in yours and why it's closer to the frame. Like it was said, just grid the tube down.
The sway bar was much closer to level but this kit sagged quite a bit when I added a bumper and winch.

Thanks for the feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
DON'T grind that tube off, it harms nothing if the sway bar contacts it. Believe it or not, the tube extension is designed to do exactly what it's doing. It prevents the sway bar from shifting side to side, which can allow the pitman side drag link end to hit the sway bar when turned full driver. The shifting becomes more acute with a lifted suspension that twists and travels the sway bar through a larger radius. Here's a couple photos of what happens when you shorten the tube to prevent sway bar contact: Torn drag link end boot and sway bar to pitman contact. (Don't ask how I learned this!)



 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
53,758 Posts
DON'T grind that tube off, it harms nothing if the sway bar contacts it. Believe it or not, the tube extension is designed to do exactly what it's doing. It prevents the sway bar from shifting side to side, which can allow the pitman side drag link end to hit the sway bar when turned full driver. The shifting becomes more acute with a lifted suspension that twists and travels the sway bar through a larger radius. Here's a couple photos of what happens when you shorten the tube to prevent sway bar contact: Torn drag link end boot and sway bar to pitman contact. (Don't ask how I learned this!) http://s160.photobucket.com/user/sok66/media/Jeeps/JK%20Wrangler/Pitman%20to%20Sway%20Bar%20Interference%20Issue/_DSC3570web.jpg.html http://s160.photobucket.com/user/sok66/media/Jeeps/JK%20Wrangler/Pitman%20to%20Sway%20Bar%20Interference%20Issue/_DSC3573web.jpg.html
Good to know. But Honestly .. I don't see kissing the end of the tube with a grinder causing any harm. Now grinding it flush with the frame ... Well ... I wound not do that :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
DON'T grind that tube off, it harms nothing if the sway bar contacts it. Believe it or not, the tube extension is designed to do exactly what it's doing. It prevents the sway bar from shifting side to side, which can allow the pitman side drag link end to hit the sway bar when turned full driver. The shifting becomes more acute with a lifted suspension that twists and travels the sway bar through a larger radius. Here's a couple photos of what happens when you shorten the tube to prevent sway bar contact: Torn drag link end boot and sway bar to pitman contact. (Don't ask how I learned this!)



I don't mean to be an ass, but what you said just sounds crazy to me. You are saying that the front crossmember was intentionally left sticking out of the side of the frame in order to keep the sway bar centered?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
The sway bar was much closer to level but this kit sagged quite a bit when I added a bumper and winch.

Thanks for the feedback.
I'd like to see how far up the sway bar is supposed to go and if it should come past the front member's tube with the suspension hitting the stops. It just seems odd that it would hit the tube like that unless the sway bar end links are too long or something else is off. I'm not pretending I know, but I'm interested to see about this for future reference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
DON'T grind that tube off, it harms nothing if the sway bar contacts it. Believe it or not, the tube extension is designed to do exactly what it's doing. It prevents the sway bar from shifting side to side, which can allow the pitman side drag link end to hit the sway bar when turned full driver. The shifting becomes more acute with a lifted suspension that twists and travels the sway bar through a larger radius. Here's a couple photos of what happens when you shorten the tube to prevent sway bar contact: Torn drag link end boot and sway bar to pitman contact. (Don't ask how I learned this!)
I just checked in mine and the pitman arm does not go out far enough where the swaybar will hit the rubber boot on it. If yours is doing that, you may have to adjust your left turn radius by extending the bolt out a bit.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
53,758 Posts
I don't mean to be an ass, but what you said just sounds crazy to me. You are saying that the front crossmember was intentionally left sticking out of the side of the frame in order to keep the sway bar centered?
IF the swaybar were to shift .. I see what SOK66 is saying. I just don't see harm in grinding a small amount off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
IF the swaybar were to shift .. I see what SOK66 is saying. I just don't see harm in grinding a small amount off.
I wouldn't want my sway bar hitting anything. If it were me, I'd get shorter or adjustable end links, or cut the tube off flush with the welds. I don't know about non Rubi sway bars, but on the Rubi, the sway bar seems to be locked in place by the disco system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
The more you grind off of the tube the more the sway bar will shift. Eventually the pitman hits the sway bar. Trust me on this one and it will save you a LOT of trouble! ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
The more you grind off of the tube the more the sway bar will shift. Eventually the pitman hits the sway bar. Trust me on this one and it will save you a LOT of trouble! ;-)
Please, please tell me Jeep didn't design the cross member sticking out of the frame as a means to keep the front sway bar centered?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
I wouldn't want my sway bar hitting anything. If it were me, I'd get shorter or adjustable end links, or cut the tube off flush with the welds. I don't know about non Rubi sway bars, but on the Rubi, the sway bar seems to be locked in place by the disco system.
On both the Sport/Sahara and Rubicon the sway bar is free to float laterally in the bushings. That crossmember tube is as long as it is to prevent excessive lateral movement under flex. Only way to prevent movement entirely is disconnects. Rubicon electro-fail shifts even when switched into disconnect as it's still moving with the axle. Changing links won't do anything to prevent it.

I learned this the hard way. Being smarter than the Jeep engineers I decided to grind off those crossmember tube ends. I soon ended with bound up steering and a shredded drag link end. I patched up my mistake using hose clamps on the bar, on the inside of the sway bar mount bushings. These eventually tore the $#!+ out of the bushings, but kept the pitman and TRE away from the sway bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
On both the Sport/Sahara and Rubicon the sway bar is free to float laterally in the bushings. That crossmember tube is as long as it is to prevent excessive lateral movement under flex. Only way to prevent movement entirely is disconnects. Rubicon electro-fail shifts even when switched into disconnect as it's still moving with the axle. Changing links won't do anything to prevent it.

I learned this the hard way. Being smarter than the Jeep engineers I decided to grind off those crossmember tube ends. I soon ended with bound up steering and a shredded drag link end. I patched up my mistake using hose clamps on the bar, on the inside of the sway bar mount bushings. These eventually tore the $#!+ out of the bushings, but kept the pitman and TRE away from the sway bar.
That's crazy since it's metal to metal. My guess is that if you do a lift, you have to make sure that sway bar angle stays about the same as stock so it works without prematurely hitting the bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
I had the same problem. Search "swaybar rubbing". After I installed a TF performance (spring ) leveling kit. The replacement swaybar links are much taller and raised the swaybar until contact is inevitable. I ground my crossmember tubes down more than 15k miles ago, no problems yet with the pitman arm. I will be keeping an eye out for contact with the pitman arm. Thanks for the heads-up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
A few months ago a squeak developed on the drivers side front suspension of my 2014 JKUR (TF Performance Leveling Kit, stock shocks). Big bumps definitely cause it but simply going off the curb at the end of my driveway can cause it if I'm going a little fast. I finally found the cause; the sway bar is rubbing on the round tube that protrudes from the frame. See picture below. You can see the lower left part of the tube has been ground down by the sway bar pretty good. So, I'll probably grind down that tube. Looked at the other side and it is tight on that side too but not rubbing. Anyone else have this problem? It wasn't that way when I got it. Do the sway bars shift around a little in the rubicon e-disco mechanism or something?
I had the same thing after installing a 3.5 inch Metalcloak lift. i ground those tubes not all the way, just 1/8 of an inch or so and sprayed it with some black paint.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
691 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I had the same thing after installing a 3.5 inch Metalcloak lift. i ground those tubes not all the way, just 1/8 of an inch or so and sprayed it with some black paint.
Good to know; I've been eyeballing metalcloak.

Thanks!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top