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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all - I'm working on the brakes of my 2007 JKU. Three of the lug nuts on the front driver's side wheel are frozen or stuck. They were seized up pretty good before, but the OEM chrome casing peeled off the nut as well, so now the 3/4" socket tire iron is slightly big as well. Any ideas to get the lug nuts off? Guy at the auto store suggested using a torch to heat them up. Tried WD-40 and an impact wrench...but they won't seem to loosen up. Thanks for any ideas!
 

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Hey all - I'm working on the brakes of my 2007 JKU. Three of the lug nuts on the front driver's side wheel are frozen or stuck. They were seized up pretty good before, but the OEM chrome casing peeled off the nut as well, so now the 3/4" socket tire iron is slightly big as well. Any ideas to get the lug nuts off? Guy at the auto store suggested using a torch to heat them up. Tried WD-40 and an impact wrench...but they won't seem to loosen up. Thanks for any ideas!


If the cap of the lug nut has come off you’ll want to use a 18mm socket. The 19mm or 3/4 will round off the lug making it next to impossible to break loose. Happens all the time to any Chrysler product or ford or Toyota that uses a 2 piece style lug


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In my case the nut was cross-threaded and torqued by the nice tire-shop guys.
Tried WD40,heat, breaker bars, impact guns. ended up with a rounded nut.
Drilled the stud out and replaced with a new one. (Mopar)
 

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If they're rounded already and your socket isn't getting it done try going to your local auto parts store and getting a lug nut remover. It's a socket that's threaded backwards and tapers on the inside so it will grip the rounded lug nut. I had problems removing mine and the lug nut remover made a huge difference. I bought both/ all three sizes (whatever they had) it's saved my ass a couple times. If you put it on and then give it a whack with a hammer or something it will help to grip. Also maybe see if you can borrow a more powerful impact if the one you have isn't cutting it. I think you're on the right track with the WD-40

2011 JKU. NBTX
 

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In the shop if needed we take a chisel or a big screwdriver plus a hammer and rip the chrome cap off. Next get a socket that fits the nut and attach it to a torque bar. Then get a metal pipe like a good solid chain link fence pipe. Put it over the end of the bar and really hard push downwards. It will come loose.
 

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I second the breaker bar and metric socket method. Use an impact socket if you have one as they are a little stronger than regular sockets. As others suggested slide about a 6' piece of pipe over the breaker bar and I usually place the socket and bar horizontal in the 10 o'clock position. With the pipe placed over the breaker bar I place my very svelte 225 pound body on the pipe. This is usually enough to get the lug nut turning.

When reinstalling, put a little anti seize on the threads and just a touch on the tapered end of the lug nut. This will prevent any corrosion from building up between the rim and the lug nut and make the next removal a bit easier.

It also helps to crack these and re-tighten every 6 months or so so that they don't seize in position. Once that corrosion builds up, removal gets harder.
 

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Also make sure you sand the inside surface of the rim where the rust forms when touching the hub. If you leave it your torque of the nuts can be thrown off. I’ve seen wheels come lose.
 

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If the nut is really stuck the best outcome is a broken stud. I once broke 4 out of 5.
Otherwise the nut will round and drilling will be required.
Both variants are Ok, driling takes aprx 1 hour, replacing a stud (s) aprx same time.
In both cases rim wont be damaged.
If lug nuts where overtightened i suggest inspecting all of them (and the studs) fot thread damage and replace if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the ideas guys. Breaker bar and 18mm socket got most of them off. There was one that wouldn't come loose yet. I'll try heat on that one next.
 

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Recommend map gas, not propane. Much better for seized metal on metal applications. Combine with breaker bar/metric, and metal pipe extension. For wheels, if you're using a cordless impact, you're gonna want go out and get a corded impact with a minimum of 450ft/lbs. It's worth it. But from the looks of it, you'll need the manual method mentioned above.
 

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When reinstalling, put a little anti seize on the threads and just a touch on the tapered end of the lug nut.
I'm not trying to start an argument, but this is not a good idea. If anyone reads the above recommendation, please do your own research before using any amount of anti-seize in this application.
 

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I used a long bar on the nut and put the end touching the ground. started the engine and moved the car a little bit, loosened it up nice and easy.. Worked for me anyway.
 

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Go to Harbor Freight and invest in the EarthQuake battery power 3/4 drive impact gun. Has more torque than an air impact. I had axle bolts from a pontoon trailer in salt water and took the nuts off without any problem. I carry it all the time and has never failed to remove a nut.
 

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I'm not trying to start an argument, but this is not a good idea. If anyone reads the above recommendation, please do your own research before using any amount of anti-seize in this application.


I second this. Anti seize is a lubricant. You don’t want a lubricant applied to something your torquing as you will receive a false torque, which could result in a broken stud/damaged stud and or lug.


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