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Discussion Starter #1
My jeep decided not to start for me in the walmart parking lot today. I couldn't hear the pump prime. I switched the pump relay with the one for the horn, since they both were the same, and nothing. I did notice though that the horn wouldn't work with the fuel relay at all.

Did the tapping the gas tank with a hammer trick and the jeep started right up and made it home. Now the pump is priming and everything.

Now last year I had a similar problem and I changed the fuel pump and all was well. What are the odds the pump went bad again or could the relays be the fault. I really don't want to drop the tank again lol
 

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Not to be a jerk but did you put it back together correctly!

It is possible that it went bad in a year but I would not think so unless you did not put it back together correctly!

Bottom line is to be sure you will have to drop the tank

Look at it this way you have done it before!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lol no offense taken. I do believe it is correct and it did work great for about 15 months.
 

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I got an airtex fuel pump for our yj that was bad right out of the box. Heard a lot of bad things about them.
The previous owner had the pump changes sometime before we got our jeep and I guess they had weakened the return line on the sending unit at the braised joint on it. It came loose and you lose your ground. So I had to change it as well. Might wanna check that also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the fellas. The pump is a napa pump but I don't know who makes it for them. Thinking of getting a whole new sending unit and pump since my gas gauge hasn't worked in a long time either.
 

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Really!!!! Really!!!! Check the ground on the tank. It is super week and if your gas gauge does not work also it could be a bad ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The ground you speak of is on the top of the sending unit right?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought of something. If it were a bad ground at the tank, would the hammering the tank to get the pump going still work? that's how I got it started again
 

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I thought of something. If it were a bad ground at the tank, would the hammering the tank to get the pump going still work? that's how I got it started again
On ours the actual metal return line on the sending unit separated at the 90 degree bend where it is braised. When it separated it lost ground. The chassis ground is connected to the outside of the sending unit, but the pump and fuel gauge are grounded to the frame of the sending unit in the tank. The only thing connecting all that is the metal return line. If the braised joint comes apart like ours did because the previous owner obviously stressed it in a previous fuel pump change, you lose your ground inside the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On ours the actual metal return line on the sending unit separated at the 90 degree bend where it is braised. When it separated it lost ground. The chassis ground is connected to the outside of the sending unit, but the pump and fuel gauge are grounded to the frame of the sending unit in the tank. The only thing connecting all that is the metal return line. If the braised joint comes apart like ours did because the previous owner obviously stressed it in a previous fuel pump change, you lose your ground inside the tank.
So maybe the hammering made it get some connection again? Either way, looks like the tank is coming down lol
 

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You will know when you open up the tank just follow the wires to either gauge or the pump. I can't remember what color they were. Good luck.
 
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