Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just finished upgrading all the audio components in the 2014 JK. Wanted very clean sound with great bass response. The JK came with the 7 speaker Alpine sound system that has the 8” sub. The goal was to have a somewhat stock appearance. All upgraded speakers where mounted in all oem locations. Here is the list of equipment that was used



Radio - Kenwood excleron DMX905S CarPlay/Android Auto Media Unit



Amplifer - Arc Audio X2 XDi 850.5 5- Channel



Front speakers - Hybrid Audio Unity U61-2v2 6.5” 2 way components



Sound bar - Hybrid Audio Imagine I61 2v2 6.5” Convertible components



Subwoofer - Audiomobile EVO10 in modified Alpine Enclosure



Backup Camera - AIS Jeep Backup Camera ( mounts to spare tire)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Removal of the oem headunit was tackled first. This involves In removing the rear support bracket that supports the oem radio for clearance for the new headunit. Minor trimming of the plastic double Din opening to also for clearance.



To retain the oem USB port in the center console, a Pac Audio usb adapter was used at the unconnect module. Was attached between the Kenwood usb and module. The idatalink maestro RR module with the CH1 wireharness to Interface the Kenwood unit to the JK wiring. It also allows oem gauge and information readout to come up on the Kenwood 7” Capacitive Touch screen. With this module, you can retain the Uconnect system if you want, I decided against it since Android Auto/ CarPlay would be used instead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Next moved onto removing all speakers and running all new 100% OFC 16ga copper speaker wire.








Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Starting with the front stage, all wire is wrapped like factory and heat shrink terminated ends. The lower dash boxes were sound Deaden from the inside using matt and polyfill.









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The front midbass drivers are mounted in their enclosure. Mounted back in the vehicle.








Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Moving onto the Soundbar. Old speakers removed, sound Deadening and fill was added to stop any vibrations. All new wire was ran also with quick disconnects




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Next was installation and wire run for the backup camera. This camera works if you have a standard oem spare wheel and tire or even larger aftermarket ones. Has adjustable within the bracket.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
That is a very clean looking installation. The pictures were very good at showing the important aspects as well. Thanks for taking the time to write that all up.

I'm busy planning my own major overhaul of the radio/amp/speakers/cameras of my 2015 JK and you've given me some ideas that will be real useful.

By the way, what is the RMS output for each channel? And how does it do for filling the cab with sound? I am considering systems at 50w, 70w, and 100w + a powered sub and can't really determine how much I really "need" (I'm not looking to rattle my teeth).

Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
That is a very clean looking installation. The pictures were very good at showing the important aspects as well. Thanks for taking the time to write that all up.

I'm busy planning my own major overhaul of the radio/amp/speakers/cameras of my 2015 JK and you've given me some ideas that will be real useful.

By the way, what is the RMS output for each channel? And how does it do for filling the cab with sound? I am considering systems at 50w, 70w, and 100w + a powered sub and can't really determine how much I really "need" (I'm not looking to rattle my teeth).

Ken


85w x 4 @ 4ohms 400w x 1 @ 2ohms
125w x 4 @ 2ohms 400w x 1 @ 2ohms.

I would say around 70w a Channel is a good starting point to fill the cabin with good sound. A good efficient sub would need at least 300w do have decent output. But then again, it all comes down to budget.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Next moving on to the amplifier installation and wiring. 16ga Wire was used for the front and rear speaker outputs. The subwoofer output used 14ga wire. Power per channel 85w rms x 4 400w rms x 1. The front stage passive crossovers are mounted under the driver seat and the amplifier under the passenger seat. Both seats were removed to make mounting rack out of PVC sheet.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
4ga OFC power wire was ran from the ampli the engine compartment. A mount made from ABS supports the mounting of the fuse holder above the battery.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Last part of the build is the subwoofer enclosure. Decided to modify the oem 8” Apline Enclosure to fit the 10” shallow Audiomobile EVO 10 Subwoofer. Most of the front side of the enclosure was cut away. A new 10” mounting ring and panels piece was routed out of PVC. Then bonded using fiberglass .






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The Enclosure was mounting back in the vehicle using same oem mounting points. Was able to keep all oem functions. Audiomobile sub comes with a protective grill also.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top