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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody replaced a full door gasket I purchased a crown replacement because I was unable to locate a mopar one but it appears correct is there any sealant involved my original is starting to crack and leak the bottom of the gasket has push in pins but what holds the top in place is there a channel ?
Thanks in advance
 

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Don't need to use any sealant. Just did my 2 doors with new door seals and weather stripping. Easy to install. Top of the door there is a channel were you press it in.
 

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I just did mine with kits made by Crown. They lock into a slot around the upper door frame and align with plastic pins along the sides and lower door. The sealant you speak of is in fact a product like 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive. You only need it behind the foam rubber on the lower half of the door. The plastic pins are for alignment and are not strong enough to hold the seal on long term.
 

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No glue needed install like Manny said

Didn't have foam rubber on the seals I installed and those pins will hold the rubber seal in place for a long time. My doors with the original seals had no glue anywhere.
 

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That's fine, do as you will. But you'll notice they are glued to the door as well as pinned from the factory. That stuff is a real joy to remove, ask me and I'll tell you. Read a post from LuckMac that confirms this. LINK
 

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YJ's did not use adhesive on door seals.
 

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@Cornchip Do you mean this one?
I can't remember ever seeing factory weather strips on older vehicles that didn't have adhesive. Many newer cars don't use it. Perhaps today because of better materials when manufacturing the rubber for the weather strips.
Good Luck, L.M.
Maybe one of the PO of yours used glue the factory did not
 

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YJ's did not use adhesive on door seals.

Proof?



Owned my 89 since the day I drove it new off the lot. Doors had adhesive. The rust free Red 88 YJ Lardeo set I just stripped and painted also had adhesive and no repaint during their lifetime. I would use it anyhow.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Or you could just run with the doors off and not have to make the tough decision.

Really though, the pins seemed to stretch the seal tight enough that the glue would be unnecessary, BUT I did use a little Clear Silicone on mine just for shirts and giggles
 
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Proof?



Owned my 89 since the day I drove it new off the lot. Doors had adhesive. The rust free Red 88 YJ Lardeo set I just stripped and painted also had adhesive and no repaint during their lifetime. I would use it anyhow.



Neither of the 94's i owned had it neither did friends 93 or 92 or the 1986 CJ7 i owned. I dont think my friends 97 TJ had adhesive either. When i bought brand new mopar doors they did not have it but they were not painted either. And since i have never seen adhesive on wrangler weather striping i never even thought about putting it on after i had the doors painted. I have had the doors for over 10 years and it's never sagged or fallen off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the reply’s I removed the seal yesterday and I had some sort of sealant just at were the glass meets the lower part of the door on both sides I used a plastic scraper to get the little lip in place up around the top but it wasn’t that difficult I might add a little sealer were it was before worse part is now you have to slam the door shut to get it to latch all the way for what it’s worth my 94 wrangler has 55,000 miles I’m the second owner and I don’t believe the po would have added the sealant but I could be wrong I peeled the passenger side back just enough and it’s on that side too maybe someone at the factory was feeling frisky that day and felt like adding the sealant but who knows.

Thanks again
 

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Y'all are lucky. PO glued then new strips over the old strips that had been glued to the doors on my YJ. I have done one door that involved hours of cleaning to remove the old seals. The other door has remained undone for a year now due to the PITA factor associated with removing old glue. Second door is WAY DOWN the to do list.
 

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I haven't tried it, but I just got the idea that something like Goof Off might soften the adhesive enough so that the gasket will pull away. The Goof Off might leave the adhesive soft enough so that it can be mostly removed with a plastic scraper. Then finish cleaning the adhesive with a solvent like Acrisol or some product that won't damage the paint.

If you try it, let the forum know how it works. You should find Goof Off at your local Big Box lumber yard.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Oh yeah, way hard to remove. I did a total paint removal and wasn't afraid about what I used to dissolve that adhesive. Lacquer thinner worked after removing the bulk of the seal with a wire wheel in an variable speed angle grinder.
 

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Oh yeah, way hard to remove. I did a total paint removal and wasn't afraid about what I used to dissolve that adhesive. Lacquer thinner worked after removing the bulk of the seal with a wire wheel in an variable speed angle grinder.
Yeah, that's probably the fastest. I got the bear's portion off with a wire wheel too. One door was gooped up pretty good and the other just had a dab in the areas where the window frame meets the door shell.
I had the doors media blasted because that makes it way easier to get all the crappy old paint off.
I thought I had pics after the media blasting, but I can't find them.

When using a wire brush on a angle grinder or a die grinder, always be sure to use a face shield even if you're wearing goggles.
Gloves, long pants and a long sleeved shirt are also well advised.
Best of all is a welder's leather apron.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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