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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking into making a full roll cage out of my stock one.. Maybe by just adding 2 steel tubes to the front ends and bring them through the dash to the frame..?
is this possible?
Does anyone else have any ideas or has anybody modified there roll cage?
Any advice?
 

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The hard part about fabbing your own is the door frame. Poison Spyder has a good weld in kit and Rock Hard has a good bolt on kit. Most people that fab their own start with a Poison Spyder kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well is the boot on cages the same strength as a welded one?
And can i still be able to put the windshield up with a full roll cage??
 

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I'm personally running a fully welded custom cage myself. A good weld is always going to be stronger than a bolt point. A bolt on cage is stronger than stock and a weld on cage done by a good welder is going to be stronger than a bolt in. With a bolt on you're limited by what is offered and with a full weld in you're not limited at all.

With both options, you can still raise and lower your windshield.
 

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The Rock Hard cage doesn't bolt on it is clamped onto factory cage. The clamps are overkill IMO. They provide much more surface area than a weld. However the clamps are welded to the DOM tubing so the cage is still only as strong as the weld.

A good welded that has a tubing cutter and bender can fab you an equal or better cage than anything you buy off the shelf.
 

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I've been giving this some thought in the last few days. I'm leaning toward the Poison Spyder trail cage in the front and custom spreaders in the back. :cool:
 

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If I were to get a bolt on kit, would it look weird? And would it even add strength to the stock cage?


It would not look any weirder than a welded cage.

You are adding supports to make the cage larger and protect more of the Jeep.

You really should google Jeep Wrangler roll cage and look at different options both weld and clamp. I don't care for the term Bolt On because it is misleading. One look in person at a Rock Hard cage and you will see what I mean.

If I had a tubing bender and cutter I would have welded one in. I know a guy that makes race car chassis and has the equipment to build me a cage but he wanted twice what the Rock Hard cost.
 

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Welds do not and can not come loose.

a 1/2" thick bar clamp with six 5/16" socket head cap screws won't either.
 

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I guess it depends how you view your safety. The average set of 35" tires new off the shelf will run you $1200. Around the same as a fully welded cage. when you look at it like that. It's easy for me to justify a welded cage.
 

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You can get a 10 pt from S&W for a few hundred bucks, have a buddy weld it in and do whatever changes you want. Last one I did for a buddy cost him about 500 bucks out the door with 4 more bars added. Its way cheaper to buy one already bent than to buy all the tubing.

Rule of thumb I build by...if its secured with a bolt it will always have the potential to come loose. I even put 1/4" of weld on my axle joint caps lol
 

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Yeah me too, no way I would pay a grand for tubing though...hell for that price you can buy a bender, tubing, notcher, and make your own :D
Yeah, I'll most likely do a poison spyder weld in cage in the front with some custom work in the back. I have a full soundbar instead of the pods so I can't use the PS stuff in the back. :(
 

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97'wrangler said:
I am looking into making a full roll cage out of my stock one.. Maybe by just adding 2 steel tubes to the front ends and bring them through the dash to the frame..?
is this possible?
Does anyone else have any ideas or has anybody modified there roll cage?
Any advice?
I must have misunderstood the OP. I thought from his post he was after adding a few tubes to the front around windshield frame not a total custom crawler cage.
 
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