gearing instructions
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Your licensed mechanic shouldn't have any problem changing gearing on jeep axles. They're nothing special and the design has been around a long time.
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Some things I learned from a member named Oilwell:
You'll want gear sets, carriers and install kits for each axle, plus extra pinion bearings and crush sleeves (which tend to get trashed during removal of your stockers).
Don't buy the parts yourself; buy em from the shop that does the install, to maintain the warranty.
Here's a thread I started when I bought my 2012. Be aware, the Pentastar engine was new then, and it wasn't clear how regearing would affect it. But it should give you some insight into the process.
Gearing for a 2012 MANUAL
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Here's a thread I participated in after I had a better understanding of the whole regearing issue, which is like quantum physics.
Note the difference between posts for the pre and post Pentastar engines. Nevertheless, lots of good stuff here, for regearing peeps who are anal, and all fighter pilots:
Want 35s dont want to REGEAR ??
Note the difference between posts for the pre and post Pentastar engines. Nevertheless, lots of good stuff here, for regearing peeps who are anal, and all fighter pilots:
Want 35s dont want to REGEAR ??
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We found Yukon's instructions the most helpful. There was a decent amount of incorrect information online when I did my gear swap a year ago. Pentastar vs. non, 3.21s etc. as KB mentions. But that was over a year ago so that may have sorted itself out.
http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Manuals/Yukon_General_Installation_Instructions.pdf
There was another set of instructions I'll scan if I can dig them up.
Someone did mention- its a good idea to just plan on replacing bearings- at minimum be ready in case you need them. (Ie: Saturday at 6pm no one will have them.)
I expect your buddy has all this but this was our list of tools:
http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Manuals/Yukon_General_Installation_Instructions.pdf
There was another set of instructions I'll scan if I can dig them up.
Someone did mention- its a good idea to just plan on replacing bearings- at minimum be ready in case you need them. (Ie: Saturday at 6pm no one will have them.)
I expect your buddy has all this but this was our list of tools:
- Diff Spreader. Used to spread the diff. housing so you can remove the carrier (and add shims if needed). Alternative- crow bar and hammer. My husband made one for around $70. Cost on Amazon or Ebay: $170-$300. Try getting in a .0098 shim in (without bending it )with the use of a crow bar or screw driver and hammer. It can be done- but no way I'd do it. (I see Yukon sells one now)
- Bearing press. Remember the rear axle? It had to be removed and placed on a bearing press to get the pinion shaft out. And get the seized bearing off. Alternative: if you've hammered on the rear pinion for hours- not much. We bought a 12 ton shop press from Harbor Freight for $80. Look for coupons in any car magazine.
- Micrometer. To measure the shims. (Ours were not marked. )$30.
- A dial indicator to measure backlash with magnetic base ( base a must). $20-$40.
- Feeler gauge. We didn't need it- but chances are you will. $20
- Bearing puller (clam shell style). $150-$200. Highly recommend. If you mess up the bearings the old fashioned way- replacement bearings are $100 plus per axle.
- 1 5/16" socket & 1 1/8" sockets (1/2" or 3/4" drive). With big ass breaker bar or impact wrench.
- Slide hammer. Useful but not necessary. Had one- don't know cost.
- Dead blow hammer.
- Digital caliper up to 6". $10.
- Bench vice up to 6" will simplify the process a lot,
- Hub tool. CRITICAL. $20. Locks the drive shaft input flange in place while you crank on the pinion nut with above referenced bad a** breaker bar or impact wrench.
- Your local shop- for anything you weren't expecting.
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