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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have read all about gears and so forth. Just bought mine and it seems pretty powerful. 4.0, manual 5 speed. 33" tires. 5th gear works fine and I can cruise at 65-68 mph no prob. I haven't looked to see what gear it has yet. You look on the rear axle or something right? How would I be able to tell if it has been re-geared?
 

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The stock axle ratio is stamped on a tag under a bolt on the diff cover. If it's stock and you're not complaining then it's almost certainly 3.73. (Like mine.) I don't know what to tell you if it has already been re-geared. Contact the previous owners and ask them, I guess.
 

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One way to figure out your ratio is to jack up one of the rear wheels. Rotate the wheel one full turn and at the same time count how many times your driveshaft turns. That's what your gear ratio will be.

For example, if the DS turns 3.73 times (or close to it), then you have 3.73:1 gear ratio.
 

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One way to figure out your ratio is to jack up one of the rear wheels. Rotate the wheel one full turn and at the same time count how many times your driveshaft turns. That's what your gear ratio will be.

For example, if the DS turns 3.73 times (or close to it), then you have 3.73:1 gear ratio.
:appl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The differential case with the gear ratio tab had too much rust to see. I need to clean it off. I was in the lot at work, I didn't want to stay under there for ever. I DID however see a couple of 3's. Upon further inspection, out of the differential there is about a 2' long drive shaft going into what looks like a newer gear box. (I say newer because it doesn't show rust like the other parts under there. There is a tab on there saying it is from a company in NY and the ratio is 272. What is this?
 

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2.72 is the low range for your transfercase.
 

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You gear ration on the axle tag will be at one end or the other more or less by itself and will not have the decimal in it, its usually close to a corner of the tag. You can check either axle.


You say you can cruise in 5th gear, but can you pass other cars quickly in 5th or go up even moderate inclines without having to shift to 4th? If the answer is no you've probably got 3.73 gears. With 3.73 and 33s I could cruise at highway speed just fine in 5th once 4th got me where I wanted, but passing other vehicles or going up even a slight incline for more than 50 feet traveling distance and I was shifting to 4th. Building speed up in 5th gear also took a good while.

For reference now that I have 4.56 gears I have 5th gear back and I pretty much have to use it, where-as before 5th was a cruising option only for lower RPMs.

If you're somewhere between those extremes you may have 4.10 gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It is like you said....I must downshift to 4th to increase speed to pass. How tough is it to regear to 4.56? Price? I love the size and would love a little more gittyup.
 

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It is best to let the pros do the re gearing and it usually is around $1200 for both axles out the door.
 

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First off! Bummer on the 3.07s. Secondly, before you re-gear, where do you see your rig in a years time? I mean are you going to lift it more, go bigger tires, etc. The reason I ask is, that if you plan to build this any more, then you should re-gear to where you want to be when done with the build. Also, when re-gearing, if you plan on wheeling anything difficult, now would be the time to consider some type of TAD (traction adding device) i.e. locker or automatic soft locker, such as an Aussie, Lock-Right, Spartan etc.

Gears, install kits, and labor will vary in different parts of the country and by the shops available in your area. If you do want to add a TAD, then you also have to consider your driving habits, (% off and on road), weather in your area, what you will tolerate as far as handling characteristics on the street, and the fact that you SHOULD upgrade axle shafts etc to handle the extra load on your rig.

If you don't plan on any future build up of your ride, then re-gear to 4.56s as described and enjoy the renewal of power and most likely better mileage. Then if you do go to 35' tires in the future, you will still be ok, as far as performance goes.

Your profile doesn't say anything about your rig specs, so either they rebuilt the t/case or the previous owner installed a SYE kit and CV shaft. Do you have a CV style driveshaft?

If you want more info about gears and install kits PM me. Have fun and enjoy the process.

Allen
 

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Robinh57 said:
Well, I think my gear plate reads 3.07. Is that bad? Does this mean I will stall during climbs?
What if the previous owner already regeared it? Double check it by the method I posted above. It will take you just 10 minutes to figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All good info...

To be honest, I probably will have done nothing to the jeep in a year. I will drive it back and forth to work, take the top off when it gets warmer, mayby put it in 4WD to go through some mud or up some trails...MAYBE. No rock climbing, bigger tires, higher lift, or anything like that. I will be replacing parts though because of some rust. Will probably have to start with brake components and work inward, to shocks, springs, then maybe to axles, shafts, diff's, etc. That's when I would get into regearing, I guess. I will wait to do any serious off roading until then......In thinking that I have a powerful jeep, I have driven 2 in my life...an 03 tj with a 4-cyl and this one. In my other jeep it took me 11 hours to go from Muskogee, OK to San Angelo, TX. normally a 7-8 hour trip. Max speed of 45mph into a typical central OK/ west texas headwind of about 30mph. That was NOT a powerful jeep. I traded it in 2 weeks later, and have missed it until I got this one. Even though I have the worst jeep gears ever, I am still happier than the normal person driving a regular car with great gears.....
 
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