Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I currently have a 2.5 inch RE coil lift and 315s. I installed the RE Geometry correction brackets and plan to get myself some adjustable Lower control arms (front) to improve ride quality and so forth.


How do I know what measurement to make for the LCA length? And does this impact which of the three holes I use for the stock UCA in the drop bracket?


Trying to plan my attack before hand so I know what im getting into. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,907 Posts
If you get adjustable LCA's, you shouldn't need the drop brackets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
I haven't read anywhere about people using both. I'm not an expert on this by any means but... I don't think you would see much improvement using both.

I would think you could only make very fine adjustments. Maybe if you had a very tall lift it would help?

Interested in what the experts here have to say.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I already have the brackets. Installed with my lift kit. I’ve read various threads about people using the brackets in conjunction with adjustable LCAs but I am unsure of the measurements and how the UCAs change position or don’t.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Cranbiz you are saying I should just do away with the brackets and only use adjustabls lowers?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,564 Posts
The brackets improve the angles of the control arms in addition to addressing castor. That leads to better suspension action to absorb bumps. The adjustable control arms only adjust length, which adjusts castor. The adjustable arms do not improve suspension action like the brackets do. You can just use the brackets, or just use the adjustable arms. Or you could use both. That would give you the improved angles of the brackets and also allow you to fine tune the castor to get the Jeep to drive the way you want it to.
If using both, I would start with the adjustable arms adjusted to the stock arm lengths. From there you could add castor by making the lower arms longer or remove castor by making them shorter. You could also remove castor by making the upper arms longer, which would be my preference if you have adjustable upper arms.
Either do this at an alignment shop, or do it in your driveway with trial and error (after running at stock lengths, make your arms a turn or two longer or shorter based on how it feels, then drive and evaluate).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,523 Posts
In the vast majority of cases, there is little benefit to running both Geo Brackets and LCA's at below 4.5" of lift. You can, just not much benefit. As mentioned above, the Geo Brackets do more than just set caster... But there is also a ground clearance trade off. If you offroad a lot and need max clearance, just run the arms. If DD performance is most important, just run the brackets. But you won't get more flex or really any performance advantage running both.

IMHO, just being able to fine tune caster at 2.5" of lift isn't worth the $$.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The brackets improve the angles of the control arms in addition to addressing castor. That leads to better suspension action to absorb bumps. The adjustable control arms only adjust length, which adjusts castor. The adjustable arms do not improve suspension action like the brackets do. You can just use the brackets, or just use the adjustable arms. Or you could use both. That would give you the improved angles of the brackets and also allow you to fine tune the castor to get the Jeep to drive the way you want it to.
If using both, I would start with the adjustable arms adjusted to the stock arm lengths. From there you could add castor by making the lower arms longer or remove castor by making them shorter. You could also remove castor by making the upper arms longer, which would be my preference if you have adjustable upper arms.
Either do this at an alignment shop, or do it in your driveway with trial and error (after running at stock lengths, make your arms a turn or two longer or shorter based on how it feels, then drive and evaluate).
So basically, if I understand this right, the drop brackets used along with adjustable arms allow for the suspension correction and almost eliminate the need for aftermarket driveshafts.

So I get what your saying with arm adjustment, but by using the brackets with it, how do I know which of the 3 holes in the brackets I use for the UCA (stock)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone. I think my goal is to slowly get the CAs and other components over the years so at some point I can increase the lift and not have to worry about it all at once. When bigger springs and shocks come later, I will already have all the adjustable pieces in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
So basically, if I understand this right, the drop brackets used along with adjustable arms allow for the suspension correction and almost eliminate the need for aftermarket driveshafts.

So I get what your saying with arm adjustment, but by using the brackets with it, how do I know which of the 3 holes in the brackets I use for the UCA (stock)?
The only reasons to use adjustable control arms and drop brackets is if:
A. you wanted to push the front axle forward. To do that you would need adjustable upper and lower arms. The drop brackets would only be used to reduce the control arm angle. In a setup like this you would use the top hole for the upper control arm and extend the lower arm until the axle is where you want it, then dial in the upper arm length to correct the caster.
B. The stock arms are binding and preventing offroad articulation.
If it is B, the uppers still go in the top hole and the lower control arm would then be your adjustment point to correct the caster.

If you are running longer shocks than stock. You still need to deal with the drive shaft clearance issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
Thanks everyone. I think my goal is to slowly get the CAs and other components over the years so at some point I can increase the lift and not have to worry about it all at once. When bigger springs and shocks come later, I will already have all the adjustable pieces in place.
Ok, now that I know why. Just keep the uppers in the same spot as now and set the lower to the same length as the stock ones. Then take it to an alignment shop and have them dial in the castor with the lower ones.

If you have not bought them, take a look at Core 4x4.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,962 Posts
So basically, if I understand this right, the drop brackets used along with adjustable arms allow for the suspension correction and almost eliminate the need for aftermarket driveshafts.

So I get what your saying with arm adjustment, but by using the brackets with it, how do I know which of the 3 holes in the brackets I use for the UCA (stock)?
you are wasting your money but it is your money...geo brackets on your lift is all you need. If you want to spend your money on adj and run both then set to stock length and use the top hole. If you want to increase caster for what ever reason (remember too much caster is bad and can cause more costly damage then too little caster which just causes driving issues) then drop down a hole. again it has been stated over and over you do not need both and the geo brackets will soften the small bumps in daily driving which the control arms do not do.

I can tell you have been on the tougher trails in moab and never had an issue rubbing my geo brackets. been on the Rubicon trail and dusy ershim with guys who were running geo brackets and they never had issues either. If you have a 2.5" lift and dont want to run your geo brackets just buy some fixed length lca like TF or synergy etc and call it good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks everyone. I think my goal is to slowly get the CAs and other components over the years so at some point I can increase the lift and not have to worry about it all at once. When bigger springs and shocks come later, I will already have all the adjustable pieces in place.
Ok, now that I know why. Just keep the uppers in the same spot as now and set the lower to the same length as the stock ones. Then take it to an alignment shop and have them dial in the castor with the lower ones.

If you have not bought them, take a look at Core 4x4.
Core 4x4 is the plan. I still want to get adj. track bar. I know I have the essentials, but acquiring these components over a period of time is what I prefer, I am in no hurry.

I just wanted to see if it were possible to run both. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
So basically, if I understand this right, the drop brackets used along with adjustable arms allow for the suspension correction and almost eliminate the need for aftermarket driveshafts.

So I get what your saying with arm adjustment, but by using the brackets with it, how do I know which of the 3 holes in the brackets I use for the UCA (stock)?
you are wasting your money but it is your money...geo brackets on your lift is all you need. If you want to spend your money on adj and run both then set to stock length and use the top hole. If you want to increase caster for what ever reason (remember too much caster is bad and can cause more costly damage then too little caster which just causes driving issues) then drop down a hole. again it has been stated over and over you do not need both and the geo brackets will soften the small bumps in daily driving which the control arms do not do.

I can tell you have been on the tougher trails in moab and never had an issue rubbing my geo brackets. been on the Rubicon trail and dusy ershim with guys who were running geo brackets and they never had issues either. If you have a 2.5" lift and dont want to run your geo brackets just buy some fixed length lca like TF or synergy etc and call it good.
Not a waste just building over time, trying to stay patient. I am quite happy with the brackets
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Why do people say the brackets affect ground clearance? Looking at mine underneath they don't look any lower than the diff covers and a couple other things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Why do people say the brackets affect ground clearance? Looking at mine underneath they don't look any lower than the diff covers and a couple other things.
Doesn’t bother me either, guess just because it’s one more thing to worry about getting snagged on a rock. But if you are putting your tire on the rock I don’t see how it gets hung up either...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
Doesn’t bother me either, guess just because it’s one more thing to worry about getting snagged on a rock. But if you are putting your tire on the rock I don’t see how it gets hung up either...
Its not when you put the tire on the rock, its when your tire leaves the rock that it might snag or come down on it. But for the ride quality improvement the only other option would be long arms and the difference in clearance between the two is minimal at that point and I believe the geo brackets leave you with a better breakover angle. That said longarms articulate more if you have shocks that can really travel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
you are wasting your money but it is your money...geo brackets on your lift is all you need. If you want to spend your money on adj and run both then set to stock length and use the top hole. If you want to increase caster for what ever reason (remember too much caster is bad and can cause more costly damage then too little caster which just causes driving issues) then drop down a hole. again it has been stated over and over you do not need both and the geo brackets will soften the small bumps in daily driving which the control arms do not do.

I can tell you have been on the tougher trails in moab and never had an issue rubbing my geo brackets. been on the Rubicon trail and dusy ershim with guys who were running geo brackets and they never had issues either. If you have a 2.5" lift and dont want to run your geo brackets just buy some fixed length lca like TF or synergy etc and call it good.
How does the dusy ershim compare to the rubicon? Dusy Ershim is near where I go hunting...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,962 Posts
How does the dusy ershim compare to the rubicon? Dusy Ershim is near where I go hunting...
think of the rubicon on steroids. If you are close it is a must do. On the rubicon there are places you can relax but the dusy never lets up. I don't think many people do the dusy there were two of us and we really only saw a couple of other people the entire time, we spent two nights on the trail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
think of the rubicon on steroids. If you are close it is a must do. On the rubicon there are places you can relax but the dusy never lets up. I don't think many people do the dusy there were two of us and we really only saw a couple of other people the entire time, we spent two nights on the trail.
That's the impression I got. Rubicon is like a marathon that wears you down into making bad choices and dusy is a full on in your face assault. I hit up brewer lake, rated easy... until you hit walking distance of the lake then it is serious rock crawling. Walked the first part of Spanish route (more difficult) and was like really? This is easy. Something must have changed because there was window glass and kiss Mark's on rocks that made no sense where they were...I hear coyote lake is hard too. Likes to rip off control arms.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top