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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in need of a 4.0 crate engine. :banghead: What company do you guys/gals suggest or have experience to go with?
Thanks a bunch in advance!
 

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00TJSport said:
I'm in need of a 4.0 crate engine. :banghead: What company do you guys/gals suggest or have experience to go with?
Thanks a bunch in advance!
I went with a Golen engine. I got their stroker for my yj. Shipped it from NJ to AZ, I had someone else do the install. Not the least expensive on the market for sure. Customer support was great. I am also running an Eaton supercharger with it. 26,000 miles so far. Snapped a rocker arm in the first 1,200 miles. Just a defective part, and they were quick to take care of it through a local garage. Other than that, no problems. Runs great, LOADS of power, I really like this engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds good but I'm not looking to win any races or pull down trees. I'm just looking for a reliable company that will back their product. I've been searching a lot. Think I'm going to go with Promar Precision Engines out of NJ.
 

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Have you looked at Jasper Engines? If you are looking for a good Long or short block, they may be able to help you. Stock engines.... The have a distributor in Batavia NY right off of I-90.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you looked at Jasper Engines? If you are looking for a good Long or short block, they may be able to help you. Stock engines.... The have a distributor in Batavia NY right off of I-90.
Just called Batavia. They quoted me $2,681 + $900 core charge.
Shipping is included in price. Core is refundable.
I think I can get a "stroker" for a little more than that.
That core charge is the highest I've seen too.
 

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Sorry to be ignorant, but what is core charge? I've never replaced an engine.
When you buy a rebuilt part, they charge you a "core charge" to cover the whole thing. When you give them your rebuildable "core", they refund your core charge.

That way they have a steady source for parts they can rebuild. And if you don't want to give them anything (or if your part is seriously broken and can't be rebuilt) you can just let them keep the core charge.
 

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yeah, i think so, Sounds good but I'm not looking to win any races or pull down trees. I'm just looking for a reliable company that will back their product.thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wellllll....I took the plunge today and ordered my new replacement reman 4.0 from Promar Engines. Had to do it since a recent oil change has turned to a "milky" look on the dipstick!!
 

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That means you've blown the headgasket most likely. Could be as simple as replacing the gasket, or as much as milling the head and deck along with. Still cheaper than a whole new engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That means you've blown the headgasket most likely. Could be as simple as replacing the gasket, or as much as milling the head and deck along with. Still cheaper than a whole new engine.
I hear ya, but it's the second problem this engine has. Right after I bought it, I noticed how it would not keep oil pressure after warmup.
Pressure ran at +/-45 lbs. at startup, then would drop after about half hour of driving, to 18 lbs. Then when you stop, it would make the "check gauges" light come on. Yikes!!
My shop told me it was going to need an overhaul. So anyway, the new one's getting delivered Tuesday.
 

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Sweet what's the cost breakdown for something like this? I'm always interested in new engine options!
 

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00TJSport said:
I hear ya, but it's the second problem this engine has. Right after I bought it, I noticed how it would not keep oil pressure after warmup.
Pressure ran at +/-45 lbs. at startup, then would drop after about half hour of driving, to 18 lbs. Then when you stop, it would make the "check gauges" light come on. Yikes!!
My shop told me it was going to need an overhaul. So anyway, the new one's getting delivered Tuesday.
12psi is the bottom end of factory spec i believe. Also im hoping that when the shop was checking oil pressure they had a reliable mechanical gauge hooked up. My gauge on the dash was showing 10 psi after the motor warmed up at idle. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and now its reading almost 30psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
12psi is the bottom end of factory spec i believe. Also im hoping that when the shop was checking oil pressure they had a reliable mechanical gauge hooked up. My gauge on the dash was showing 10 psi after the motor warmed up at idle. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and now its reading almost 30psi
Yes. He actually used a brand new one right out of the box. My TJ devirginized it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Welllll, the ole girl got dropped off at the shop earlier to get the new engine put in starting tomorrow. Can't wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Auto part Engine
Sludge n slime in old engine.

Tire Automotive tire Auto part Bicycle part Automotive wheel system



Automotive tire Vehicle Tire Car Bumper

New one in. Just finishing touches. Can't wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got her back! All new and clean and shiny. Lol.
 

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Same issue

Got her back! All new and clean and shiny. Lol.
:atomic:my '00 sahara. I took it in to my local dude to ask a question about something else and mentioned to him that my oil pressure had been reading low but it runs strong so I was curious if it needed a new sending unit as I know they have been historically problematic. He did a mechanical check for me and reported that he was reading about 8. Anyhow, he said to find the actual problem it would be a matter of replacing from best case scenario(price wise) and working our way up being there was no real way to find out which part was causing the problem until it completely went out which would just cause a whole other world of problems. His suggestion to me was to put a new motor(rebuild) as it would cost not even $1000 more than the alternative and give me an engine that I could expect a longer lifetime with(my current is running around 140K, before my visit w/ my mechanic I expected it to make it to twice that). I have no real desire to do any other kind of swap or upgrade to a stroker, etc. I just want a good old reliable AMC like it has. Thoughts and suggestions folks please!

Btw, this is my daily driver and I don't have the time nor do I have the proper tools to do a rebuild on my own. Believe me if that was the case there would be no question.
 

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If it's not broke, don't fix it. You say it is running strong for you. I would change the sending unit and verify the oil pressure myself. The mechanic that replaced my engine told me that 10lbs of oil pressure for every 1,000 RPM is sufficient for the 4.0. 8lbs at idle may be normal especially for an older engine.
 
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