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Not bad considering my TJ's fourteen years old. Any special magic, secret sauce to clean this one up and prevent future ones or it really just sanding, buffing and repainting?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers, B
 

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I assume you are talking about the paint crackles?

Mines pretty bad, but it was when I got it too. I put hood louvers on, and now I don’t mind if I get a few Colorado pinstripes.

If you actually mean spider webs, then you need to cut your losses burn that Jeep to the ground ASAP.
 

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Spider webs not uncommon this close to Halloween.
 

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The hood on my orange LJ is cracked and it makes me sad. I'm not sure why the hood is cracked but the rest of the body is not, but perhaps it was all in the factory paint prep. Might have been a Friday when the hood was painted. Bastards.
 

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My '03 Rubicon had a depression in the middle of the hood when I bought it (PO's oldest son climbed up on it and forgot he was getting bigger). Never had any spider webs. Jeep was completely painted last year so the depression and all the stone chips are now gone.
 

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Wow! Five responses and not one with any information that's worth a damn for the OP. I was hoping someone would have some good advise since I have some spiderwebs on the hood also.
 

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Once the paint fails there really isn't anything you can do to save it. You could respray clear but keep in mind that you are spraying over defective paint so the defects will eventually appear in the new paint.

So the only way to truly fix would be to sand out all of the imperfections, primer/sealer, base coat (color), clear coat.
 

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OEM paint applied to bare metal and even a repaint applied to OEM paint (scuffed and primed first) will not crack. It may chip or even wear down, but not crack. The only material on a vehicle that will allow paint to crack is BONDO. That means there is a depression in the hood that was not properly prepared.

That is what I was afraid would have to be done to my TJ's hood. However, the restoration shop (not a typical body shop) got the dent out and did not damage the original paint. It is amazing how much Bondo some shops will put on a vehicle to hide damage rather than repairing it properly.
 

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I was a body shop owner/manager for over 20 years. Here's the facts.

Factory applied paint, applied over clean bare metal can crack. Some colors by some manufacturers are more prone to it than others. Darker colors more so than lighter colors.
I've heard different reasons from so called "experts". Some of those experts were factory paint experts and others were from paint companies.
My guess is that the vehicle manufacturers keep lowering the quality of whatever paint they're applying until they start having problems that cost them money. Then they increase the quality a tiny bit.

The only way to make a permanent cure is to strip the entire panel that has the cracking paint to bare metal. Then, apply etch primer, primer, paint and clear coat (if it's a clear coat color).
Media blasting is better than chemical stripping. Mechanical stripping (sanding) is a waste of time. Mechanical stripping can be done, but it takes so much time and uses so much materials that media blasting is cheaper and way more efficient.

If you try to simply sand and paint the affected panel the cracks will come back.

If the clear coat is delaminating from the color coat, it's possible to sand and repaint without stripping, but OP asked about cracking, also called spiderwebbing.
Cracking paint usually happens on the upper flat surfaces in random patterns. It kinda looks like what you might find in a layer of dried mud but the edges won't be curled like mud.
There's other conditions that might be called cracking paint, but what I'm referring to is what folks in the auto body trade call cracking factory paint. Often a poor quality non-factory paint job can crack or delaminate but that's a different condition than what I think the OP is asking about.
Naturally if poorly applied body filler cracks, the paint on top of it will crack.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Wow! Five responses and not one with any information that's worth a damn for the OP. I was hoping someone would have some good advise since I have some spiderwebs on the hood also.
I'm not sure the reason for your anger, but your response would be #6 that wasn't worth a damn.

Sometimes replying with similar conditions adds value to the thread so the PO knows there are others with the same issues.
 
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Hood blackout decal or clear vinyl will hide it and prevent it from getting worse. I had a slightly worse problem with my GFs Hyundai and fixed it for $30. She didn't want the matching gloss black. My XJ paint is doing the same cracking. I'm going with a desert tan digital camo vinyl to match the desert sand color.
 

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I have multiple spider webs on my hood. My detail guy said they were due to the hood being repainted at some point, which was unwanted news to me, i.e. crash damage. According to the information in this thread, that appears to not be true. So in a strange way, I feel better about it. :)
 

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Mine existed IMO due to the heat under the hood of a black TJ. Mainly because it was in a line up the hood right over the valve cover.
That said, my fix was an orbital sander and sone black rattlecan, using spray nozzles that widened the pattern, made it look really good. Not factory, but not a shit job either. Like others, no issue with paint anywhere else, just the hood, and just over the engine area (center).
Good luck. It's easy to do.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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I have multiple spider webs on my hood. My detail guy said they were due to the hood being repainted at some point, which was unwanted news to me, i.e. crash damage. According to the information in this thread, that appears to not be true. So in a strange way, I feel better about it. :)
Two of my XJs did it. Both were 99s. Hmmm. None of my TJs did. Maybe they had too many coats of wax on them for the sun to damage the paint.:)
 
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The paint on the hood on TheBoogieman's Hyundai isn't cracking, it's suffering from clear coat delamination. Cracking paint is actually cracked. You have to look closely to see the cracks when the issue starts. The cracks become more numerous and easier to see as the condition worsens. I've heard it called spiderwebbing or crows feet.
In extreme cases, the cracks go all the way to the metal and then rust starts. It could take years for the cracks to reach the metal, but the worse the cracks get, it seems the faster the the condition worsens.

TheBoogieman's $30.00 fix looks great. I see so many vehicles that could look a lot better with a little effort. Often times the vehicle isn't worth spending whatever a body shop might charge for a professional repair, but simply cleaning up the paint transfer from the offending vehicle and touching up the scrapes can mitigate the damage for just a few dollars.

Good Luck, L.M.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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The paint on the hood on TheBoogieman's Hyundai isn't cracking, it's suffering from clear coat delamination. Cracking paint is actually cracked.
I was just using that as an example of a way to make crappy paint look better for less money. I contacted a professional auto wrap shop for a quote to fix the entire top of the Hyundai. I was quoted $750 IF I sanded down the car myself. The trunk was just as bad with the clear coat and faded paint. For $30 for a 20' roll, if it lasts a year or two I will do it again. It still looks like new after a few months and many washes. My XJ has tiny cracks covering the entire hood that look almost like scratches. Maybe the PO wiped it off with dirt and grit on it or forgot to use water when he washed it. It's only the hood though. I'm going to cover them the same way. :)
 

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