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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From the start, When I got the jeep a yr ago, it had a 2.5 lift. 16" rims and I think 245/75R/16. They were badly worn, due to improper shock install, and I doubt he ever rotated his tires. When driving, from about 45-50 mph, I will get a shimmy/wobble in the steering wheel. It doesn't happen at lower speeds, nor higher speeds.

I replaced lift with Zone 4.25 lift, and Metalcloak control arm. The shimmy was still there.

I just got new 15" rims and Duratrac 33 tires. Sigh, shimmy is still there. Everywhere I had read, people seem to say it is usually tire balance. But since I replaced rims and tires, I find it hard to believe that it could be tire balance, since the shimmy is at the EXACT same speed.

I have done the dry steer test, and never found anything loose. I also jcked up the front end and checked the wheels for wobble, to test the bearing, and all was ok. Any suggestions?
 

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From the start, When I got the jeep a yr ago, it had a 2.5 lift. 16" rims and I think 245/75R/16. They were badly worn, due to improper shock install, and I doubt he ever rotated his tires. When driving, from about 45-50 mph, I will get a shimmy/wobble in the steering wheel. It doesn't happen at lower speeds, nor higher speeds.

I replaced lift with Zone 4.25 lift, and Metalcloak control arm. The shimmy was still there.

I just got new 15" rims and Duratrac 33 tires. Sigh, shimmy is still there. Everywhere I had read, people seem to say it is usually tire balance. But since I replaced rims and tires, I find it hard to believe that it could be tire balance, since the shimmy is at the EXACT same speed.

I have done the dry steer test, and never found anything loose. I also jcked up the front end and checked the wheels for wobble, to test the bearing, and all was ok. Any suggestions?
Did you reset the toe-in after the combo lift install? I assume by metalcloak control arm, you actually meant track bar. I suggest you do another dry steer test, and rather than just watch track bar, tie rod ends, etc., put your hand on them as they cycle and see if you can feel any play in the joints.

You also could still have a tire balance issue, especially going to 33's. Might want to get that rechecked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you reset the toe-in after the combo lift install? I assume by metalcloak control arm, you actually meant track bar. I suggest you do another dry steer test, and rather than just watch track bar, tie rod ends, etc., put your hand on them as they cycle and see if you can feel any play in the joints.

You also could still have a tire balance issue, especially going to 33's. Might want to get that rechecked.
Yes, I meant Track Bar. They did an alignment once the lift was installed. And for the new tires, they are balanced with those beads inside the tire, instead of the weights. Never had that done before, but that's how they did it. It runs flawlessly at all other speeds, even at like 70 mph, it is smooth. It has ALWAYS been only between the 45-50 speed.
 

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Yes, I meant Track Bar. They did an alignment once the lift was installed. And for the new tires, they are balanced with those beads inside the tire, instead of the weights. Never had that done before, but that's how they did it. It runs flawlessly at all other speeds, even at like 70 mph, it is smooth. It has ALWAYS been only between the 45-50 speed.
Haven't heard of one person satisfied with balancing beads in Offroad tires. Semi trucks and cruiser motorcycles seem to be the only applications where they get talked up in my experience. I get my tires balanced and rotated every 3k miles from the shop I bought them at. I get a dynamic balance (weights both inside and out as needed), but they also take the time to rotate the tires around on the wheels before adding weights. If it's 40-55 but you can drive past it, it's definitely a tire balance issue. That doesn't preclude the possibility of additional issues, but it decidedly points to a tire/wheel balance issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Haven't heard of one person satisfied with balancing beads in Offroad tires. Semi trucks and cruiser motorcycles seem to be the only applications where they get talked up in my experience. I get my tires balanced and rotated every 3k miles from the shop I bought them at. I get a dynamic balance (weights both inside and out as needed), but they also take the time to rotate the tires around on the wheels before adding weights. If it's 40-55 but you can drive past it, it's definitely a tire balance issue. That doesn't preclude the possibility of additional issues, but it decidedly points to a tire/wheel balance issue.
I am not trying to argue, since you guys know ten times more than I do. I am just finding it hard to see that it's STILL my tires, after I replaced both the rims and tires, and the wobble occurs exactly at the same speed as it always has. Didn't change at all, or get worse or better.
 

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I am not trying to argue, since you guys know ten times more than I do. I am just finding it hard to see that it's STILL my tires, after I replaced both the rims and tires, and the wobble occurs exactly at the same speed as it always has. Didn't change at all, or get worse or better.
I get it. However, imbalance issues always present themselves (strongest) in the speed range of 40-55, and if you speed up to 60 or 70 go away. So 99.9% of the time when those variables are present, wheel/tire imbalance is the most likely cause. I let them know at Discount Tire before I bought my wheels and tires from them that I was extremely particular about balance and would be in every 3k requesting a PERFECT balance on all 5. They seem very understanding of my expectation and always assign the tech they say is their "best" guy and tell me it's going to take a little extra time. I'm good with it.

It's got to be worth a shot to tell them you need them balanced PERFECTLY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I get it. However, imbalance issues always present themselves (strongest) in the speed range of 40-55, and if you speed up to 60 or 70 go away. So 99.9% of the time when those variables are present, wheel/tire imbalance is the most likely cause. I let them know at Discount Tire before I bought my wheels and tires from them that I was extremely particular about balance and would be in every 3k requesting a PERFECT balance on all 5. They seem very understanding of my expectation and always assign the tech they say is their "best" guy and tell me it's going to take a little extra time. I'm good with it.

It's got to be worth a shot to tell them you need them balanced PERFECTLY.
Ok, is there anything I can do, now that they already have those beads in there? Would I need to try to get them to unmount the tires, take those out, and balance with weights?
 

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Ok, is there anything I can do, now that they already have those beads in there? Would I need to try to get them to unmount the tires, take those out, and balance with weights?
I would, but it's your call. I get lifetime support for my tires without additional cost. There are a lot of factors involved in the deal between you and the tire shop in question and obviously budget enters the equation where there is additional expenses involved. Will they remove the beads and dynamically balance your tires PERFECTLY without trying to charge you? Are they a reputable and capable shop in the first place? Are they charging you every time you need a balance? In my experience there is a lot of balancing maintenance with larger than stock MT tires.
 
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