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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to decide what ball joints to go with, mainly trying to decide if I should go greasable or non on the ball joints. I'm terrible with maintenance like this which is why I removed the RK track bar in favor of the Rough Country one. Any pros or Cons, I've been told the non greasable ones last longer
 

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I've been told the non greasable ones last longer

Only if you never GREASE them and sounds like you will not
 

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Do you change your own oil? If so, go greaseable, do it while you are under there.
 

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I can't imagine why grease-able would not last at least as long as non-grease-able. They both would start with roughly the same amount of grease. But one you can add more grease as time goes by and the other you can't. One simply has a grease fitting and the other doesn't. So even if you never grease it beyond the first greasing you do when you install it I would expect them to last the same amount.
With the RK track bar, it is a different design in addition to having the grease fitting. With ball joints they are the same basic design.
I would get the TF ball joints if you are cost limited.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can't imagine why grease-able would not last at least as long as non-grease-able. They both would start with roughly the same amount of grease. But one you can add more grease as time goes by and the other you can't. One simply has a grease fitting and the other doesn't. So even if you never grease it beyond the first greasing you do when you install it I would expect them to last the same amount.

With the RK track bar, it is a different design in addition to having the grease fitting. With ball joints they are the same basic design.
I would get the TF ball joints if you are cost limited.
I see your point. Looks like it recommends to grease them every oil change, which I do most of my own maintenance on my Jeep, so I guess I could just throw that into the routine. The problem I had with the RK Track bar was, one it was a PITA to adjust and get the Jam nuts to stay in place and then I never remember to grease it which is why it wore out prematurely. Main reason I went with the Rough Country, it had the same design as the Teraflex but was $100 cheaper. Time will tell if it last or not.

I guess next question would be what about the Synergy Ball Joints. I heard the newer HD ones are pretty nice and corrected the problems the old ones had. Or what would anyone else suggest.
 

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I have found that the non-greasable ball joints actually lasted longer but that’s my experience. I did have Synergy Balljoints ONCE never again. They only lasted 30,000klm with 35” tires. I have been running stock balljoints since and they do just fine for DD and bush wheeling on 37s.
If you want a HD unit I would suggest the TEraFlex balljoints, they seem to get good reviews..


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have found that the non-greasable ball joints actually lasted longer but that’s my experience. I did have Synergy Balljoints ONCE never again. They only lasted 30,000klm with 35” tires. I have been running stock balljoints since and they do just fine for DD and bush wheeling on 37s.
If you want a HD unit I would suggest the TEraFlex balljoints, they seem to get good reviews..


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How long ago on the Synergy. About 3 yrs ago I'd say no to them but the redesigned ones I've heard people say they are better.
 

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I would go with the TeraFlex ball joints. Actually, I did go with the TeraFlex ball joints. My brother had the older Synergy ball joints installed on his wife's JK running 35's. They did not last very long. They ended up with Rare Parts ball joints when the Synergy ones failed. The new ones may be better, but I know the TeraFlex ones are good. It would not surprise me if the two aren't that different. But I would stick with what I know is good.
 

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How long ago on the Synergy. About 3 yrs ago I'd say no to them but the redesigned ones I've heard people say they are better.


At this point in time I wouldn’t trust the Synergy BJ. Original design was great at the beginning8 years ago. No one could keep them in stock and they lasted well. Then all of a sudden as if they cheaped out on the components, people started having reliability issues, myself included. They had a good thing and screwed it up. For that I will not go back to them. The new design is likely just them going back to the original quality components.


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It's been a million years since I worked at a garage but I do recall that back in the day you could overfill a grease fitting on some joints and in doing so blow open the rubber container. The supposed fear was that you would then allow dirt to get at the joint and cause unnecessary wear.

I have NO clue how fittings work today so this may be outdated information but thought that I would at least share.

I think that if I had a choice, I would go with grease able fittings so that I had the ability to add lubrication. Just like changing the oil more often than current requirements. To me more often is better than less often. JMHO YMV
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's been a million years since I worked at a garage but I do recall that back in the day you could overfill a grease fitting on some joints and in doing so blow open the rubber container. The supposed fear was that you would then allow dirt to get at the joint and cause unnecessary wear.

I have NO clue how fittings work today so this may be outdated information but thought that I would at least share.

I think that if I had a choice, I would go with grease able fittings so that I had the ability to add lubrication. Just like changing the oil more often than current requirements. To me more often is better than less often. JMHO YMV
I think anything that you can grease will last longer than something you can not. I always would prefer to be able to grease.
Seems after reading numerous Post online in different forums online the greasable ones fail at a higher rate than the sealed ones. Not sure if that could be from poor maintenance or not. I know I have 130,000 miles on the stock ones and 105,000 miles of that has been on 35's. 105,000 miles seem pretty good for ball joints. That's light wheeling and daily driving on some pretty crappy roads.
 

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Seems after reading numerous Post online in different forums online the greasable ones fail at a higher rate than the sealed ones. Not sure if that could be from poor maintenance or not. I know I have 130,000 miles on the stock ones and 105,000 miles of that has been on 35's. 105,000 miles seem pretty good for ball joints. That's light wheeling and daily driving on some pretty crappy roads.
I would rather have a set of heavy duty ball joints than a set of stock replacement ball joints. I don't think there are any sealed, non-greaseable, heavy duty ball joints and that means any heavy duty ball joint will have a fitting for greasing. I really doubt a stock replacement ball joint is going to out last my TeraFlex heavy duty ball joints. And it you really want to step it up you could go with DynaTrac ball joints. Either way, I am confident that a good set of heavy duty ball joints that have a grease fitting will out last a set of stock replacement ball joints.
While you had great luck with your first set of stock ball joints many others fail much earlier than yours did. My sister in-laws JK had Synergy ball joints installed because the stock non-greaseable ones failed in something like 20,000 miles, not long after upgrading to 35's. The service life of the stock ball joints seems wildly varied, with many only lasting a few tens of thousands of miles.
 

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FWIIW, I looked at them all and discussed with a buddy that owns a 4wd shop. Based upon his recommendation I went with factory Dana Spicer BJs. He said that they have installed them all. They advise customers that show up with a blank check to spend more money elsewhere. I got 40k out of my first set. If I get 30k out of the one I just installed I will be very happy. I can replace them and still be money ahead. 100 bucks is hard to beat. My labor is free. :)
 

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I would rather have a set of heavy duty ball joints than a set of stock replacement ball joints. I don't think there are any sealed, non-greaseable, heavy duty ball joints and that means any heavy duty ball joint will have a fitting for greasing.
That is true and reminds me that I need to call Dynatrac. I’ve heard that their ball joints rarely if ever needed to be greased and that the fittings are there because that’s what customers are expecting. If one does grease, certainly don’t want to overdo it. - If grease is starting to ooze out that’s a no no and can do more harm than good.
 

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That is true and reminds me that I need to call Dynatrac. I’ve heard that their ball joints rarely if ever needed to be greased and that the fittings are there because that’s what customers are expecting. If one does grease, certainly don’t want to overdo it. - If grease is starting to ooze out that’s a no no and can do more harm than good.
I've heard mixed opinions on this. Other times I've heard that people push grease in until all the nasty grease squeezes out and once the new grease is squeezing out your done. Other times I've heard as you've said above, don't over grease it until it squeezes out....

I'll be the first to admit, I've been guilty of overfilling grease boots.... just one more squeeze! oops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have found that the non-greasable ball joints actually lasted longer but that’s my experience. I did have Synergy Balljoints ONCE never again. They only lasted 30,000klm with 35” tires. I have been running stock balljoints since and they do just fine for DD and bush wheeling on 37s.
If you want a HD unit I would suggest the TEraFlex balljoints, they seem to get good reviews..



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What brand of stock ball joints did you end up going with, just curious. I'm still trying to decide which direction I want to go in. I've seen them vary in price from $59 to $200 online with all saying OEM replacement.
 

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I installed Dynatrac HD Prosteer ball joints in 2016. After reading so many conflicting lubrication opinions I emailed Dynatrac and asked them, here is their response.

“The internal components are Teflon coated, and there is grease installed in the ball joints when they leave our facility. The purpose of the grease is to keep moisture and dust out of the ball joint, and not to actually lubricate the internals. With that being said, you can add approx. 1/2 pump of grease per ball joint (with a hand pump, not pneumatic grease gun) to them on an annual basis. Make sure not to force grease into them, or you risk blowing the seals out on them.”
 
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