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Im in Westminster near the naval station. Your close to enough to actually do that...Lol...I just peeked.. Ill be removing some skids. Now Im just hoping to do it will the driveshaft is installed. Although it isn't much I am hoping I can reach everything without actually removing the DS.
Hahahaha yeah your gonna have to drop the skids, and just the rear of the drive shaft so you can open it up where the zerk is... If you don't wanna buy one I'll come by this weekend with a 12pk and my fittings and we can watch each other lube our shafts... :jawdrop:
 

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HDgasser; If you don't wanna buy one I'll come by this weekend with a 12pk and my fittings and we can watch each other lube our shafts... :jawdrop:[/QUOTE said:
:funnypost:....I am speechless

Cameron
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Hahahaha yeah your gonna have to drop the skids, and just the rear of the drive shaft so you can open it up where the zerk is... If you don't wanna buy one I'll come by this weekend with a 12pk and my fittings and we can watch each other lube our shafts... :jawdrop:
Lol I've been using that joke for two days with my wife ! Thanks for the offer for the adapter but I'm going to pick one up today. Headed to Death Valley this weekend.
 

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:funnypost:....I am speechless

Cameron
:happyyes:



what did I just read :eek:
Your welcome to join!! :lmao:



Lol I've been using that joke for two days with my wife ! Thanks for the offer for the adapter but I'm going to pick one up today. Headed to Death Valley this weekend.
I was laughing as I was typin this and my wife was sitting next to me giving me the Wtf is so funny look... So I showed her.

Her response was "I knew it" bahahahahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well the magic number ended up being 3 (per JE REEL). Two up front and a flush mount for the ball in the rear. The two rear u joints are solid.
 

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I guess you could have all sealed u joints and center ball and just grease the slip joint but I don't think I've seen one like that.
When I had Tom Wood build my front shaft, I specifically requested that they use Spicer non-greasable 1330's (5-1330X) in it. The 5-1330X has awesome double captive o-ring seals instead of the goofy plastic lip on most greasable joints, and is perfectly happy spinning 30,000+ miles on just the install grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
When the front one wears out you could always change it to a solid if you wanted, too.
Front was super easy. The back was the pain. Had to drop my trans skid and the back part of the DS to get access.
 

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When I had Tom Wood build my front shaft, I specifically requested that they use Spicer non-greasable 1330's (5-1330X) in it. The 5-1330X has awesome double captive o-ring seals instead of the goofy plastic lip on most greasable joints, and is perfectly happy spinning 30,000+ miles on just the install grease.
The u joints are easy, the sealed ball is more rare. I think the Dana shaft might be the only one on the market.
 

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I grease my Jeep when I do an oil change. I like to use a waterproof grease because the Jeep crosses creeks and gets pressure washed.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Going to re-open this thread because I posted incorrect information. For those with a JE Reel 1310 there are 5 grease points. Not 3 like I posted. Two zerk fittings up front, 3 flat fittings in the rear. I'll post some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
IMG_2987.jpg IMG_2986.jpg IMG_2985.jpg

Arrows point to the flat fittings (except the center pic, my arrow was low, the little hash mark is next to it). Zerk fittings up front. Sorry about all the grease, hadn't wiped it down. That pile of grease is covering one of the zerk fitting up front.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Nice pictures to illustrate where the fittings are located. Still laughed at some of the posts in this thread.
 

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so can you use the needle tool to grease those flat ones? I have the stock sport wrangler I haven't even looked at greasing the shaft yet
 

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so can you use the needle tool to grease those flat ones? I have the stock sport wrangler I haven't even looked at greasing the shaft yet
Are you running the stock drive shaft? If so you do not need to grease it. The aftermarket DS require some type of basic maintenance where as the stock DS do not.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
so can you use the needle tool to grease those flat ones? I have the stock sport wrangler I haven't even looked at greasing the shaft yet
The driveshaft in my pictures is aftermarket. If yours is stock you do not have to worry about it. But to answer your question, yes, the needle fitting simply gets pushed against the center hole in the flat fitting so you can push the grease in.
 

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Digging up this old thread to ask if anybody has been able to grease the center ball of the CV, with a needle joint on the end of a flex hose to be able to sort of snake it into place without disconnecting the shaft from the TC? I ask because Adams directs to use red loctite on those TC bolts, and while I have disconnected and reconnected them multiple times before when initially installing, it seemed I may have actually been bending the bolt heads a little bit with as much torque as you need to break the red stuff, on those pretty small little bolts. Seems like doing that over and over every time to grease the shaft isn't ideal, at least without replacing those bolts. Would be nice to be able to grease without disconnecting.

Issue of course is you want the joint to be bent opposite of how it is with the zerk on the bottom side, to have space between the outer joint pieces to reach the zerk on the interior. So I'm wondering if I can access the zerk when it is closer to the top side by just blindly reaching in there with the needle and flex hose. I've never used a grease gun before so don't know how hard this may be. I'm going to go try it later.
 

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Try jacking up the jeep with the frame so it will change the DS angle and open up the area where the ball zerk is. Lifting a tire off the ground will allow you to spin the shaft to the best spot.
 
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