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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Got the Skyjacker Hydros, LJ springs and 3/4" front spacer on today. Netted me 3/4" additional clearance over the front tires and 1/2" behind and 1" over the rear tires and 3/4" behind. Overall when flexed it would seem the bump stops hit before the tires hit the fenders. So here it is...33x10.50s on stock suspension (LJ springs - rear are 5aa for hardtop LJs) with only a 3/4" spacer in front and fender flares removed and front fender modified into a flattie. And I'm still going to install the 1.25" BL so I can belly up.



 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Got the dedication hand lettered today, plus the medal stickers:




"Sgt. Gusty"


NEO 4x4:

 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks guys. I appreciate it. Next is to start doing stuff to help make it more off road capable. Armor first, then save up for axle upgrades.
 

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Gus you officially got me to buy a case (12 cans) of olive drab krylon fusion for my yj. Now I cant wait to spray her down :D Also you could just pick up some mce flatties. Maybe get lucky and find some used ones for dirt cheap?
 

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Gus can you give us an idea of how much you have wrapped up in this build so far?
 

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Gus you officially got me to buy a case (12 cans) of olive drab krylon fusion for my yj. Now I cant wait to spray her down :D Also you could just pick up some mce flatties. Maybe get lucky and find some used ones for dirt cheap?
MCEs were on my original build plan, but I decided to try to make my own flatties out of the stock fenders to save the money. I kind of like the way they came out and I have the same clearance the MCEs would give me. Down the road someday if I decide i want to go to 35s I might get Metalcloak arched and do 35s on no lift! But that probably won't happen.

Gus can you give us an idea of how much you have wrapped up in this build so far?
I have all that info on my build spreadsheet at home...to the penny! :rofl: But really the tires and wheels were the biggest expense so far and that was around $1100. The paint was under $50. The two medal stickers were actually $17 on line shipped. The stock LJ springs were free since they were off my old Jeep and the SJ shocks were like $120 after rebate and the 3/4" spacer was around $30 i think. Tail lights were about $14 and the Harley mirrors set me back around $60. I made a few bucks selling the hitch, wheels, etc too.

The big stuff is yet to come and that's the high ticket items. I figure I'll have at least $1200 in armor, and the axle upgrades will be in the neighborhood of $3500 I think. Then a winch and I'd really like to get a GenRight weld in cage. It won't be done for a while haha.

Edit: I forgot I will also be spending $90 on Herculiner and $114 on Bestop seatcovers and $200 or so on the JKS BL/MML very soon. Next in fact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Started to prep for the Herculiner, or whatever I decide to use. Got the seats and console out...broke off a bolt on the passenger seat side. Not sure what to do about that yet. Ya think 3 bolts will be safe? It was a rear bolt...not the torx bolt. Anyway, started sanding and got tired of doing that pretty quick so I painted on the stars.





When you mask it off like this and paint on two coats the edges are so sharp and raised it looks more like a sticker than paint.

 

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How well did the Krylon adhere to the Herc-U-Liner?

I really like the OD/BLK in the tub.:thumb:


This rig has come a long ways in a very short time. TT next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
How well did the Krylon adhere to the Herc-U-Liner?

I really like the OD/BLK in the tub.:thumb:


This rig has come a long ways in a very short time. TT next?
Actually I didn't wait long enough for the Herc to dry before I applied the OD and it kind of "alligatored" in spots. After it dried I re-applied it and it seems ok. Long term we shall see.

Next up is the BL/MML then save up for the belly armor and rocker guards. Still debating on Aluminum v. Steel on that...but I have time since it will take a while to get the $$ saved.

This months JP magazine got me thinking about that. They aren't real big on aluminum if you do rocks, which I do. Also they said in the same issue that it isn't worth upgrading a D35, which I had planned to do also with a Superior Super kit. I guess I have some more research to do.
 

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That's funny. I have the Super 35 and aluminum UCF ultra high clearance skid.
Both have served me well. Both were also recommended by Jerry Bransford.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
That's funny. I have the Super 35 and aluminum UCF ultra high clearance skid.
Both have served me well. Both were also recommended by Jerry Bransford.
Yep...I remember that you had those. I have read numerous posts by Jerry about both aluminum and the super 35 which was why I decided to go with them and probably still will. I was a little surprised that JP was negative about aluminum but not so much about the 35 since they have always bashed that axle and preached that it isn't worth sinking money into.

One thing is certain when it comes to opinions...especially about Jeeps...there will always be a lot of disagreement. Keeps things interesting! :thumb:
 

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One thing is certain when it comes to opinions...especially about Jeeps...there will always be a lot of disagreement. Keeps things interesting! :thumb:
I am headed to Moab the first week in June. They both held up last year I guess I'll see if they last two trips.:thumb:
 

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Wow! I remember the day you went to pick that up , mentioning it in the "last person to post in this thread wins " thread . Looks great! I love the paint job, and everything about the jeep!

It's come a long way :thumb:

Subbed for sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I've had two wranglerforum.com stickers for a while now. Didn't feel like putting them on so I cut them up and made my own a little more appropriate for my rig. :D

 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Got the new top on. Smittybilt replacement top. Under $270. Can't beat it for the price....fits perfect, tinted windows and a ton cheaper than Bestop. Went on real easy. 1 banana job. One thing if anyone is considering a replacement top... the original screws into the header are some bastard Chrysler screws that you will never match the threads for. Use #8 self tapping screws if you have to replace the old ones due to rust or stripping like I did. Put the whole thing on, then took out the rear and side windows for the summer.

 
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