Gusset/Trusses/Sleeve Recommendations?

11069 Views 29 Replies 14 Participants Last post by calvarycoffee, Jun 19, 2013

RacecarBMW

Discussion Starter · Oct 26, 2012

Hello WF

I am planning on putting 37 inch tires on to my Jeep and I was wondering what Gussets, Trusses and sleeves are recommended?

Can you guys tell me what brand you guys recommend and a specific link to where can I buy them? Are there any full kits rather than looking for each piece individually?

Thanks in advance.

I haven't filled out my profile yet but if it matters I have 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon.

Also while I have a thread started... What brand do you guys recommend I go with when I regear my drivetrain? Any info on that would be helpful as well.

Thanks in advance.

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

JVL

· #2 · Oct 26, 2012

I have the Evo gusset kit. They are pretty nice and welded on pretty easily. I also ordered Nitro axle sleeves. Haven't put those in yet but they look pretty nice. I always deal with Northridge 4x4. Everyone there has always been very helpful with my questions even if I am not placing an order right then. They also just started selling some truss kits that look sweet. Check out there website- Northridge4x4.com

kramer2k

· #3 · Oct 26, 2012

I have Synergy C gussets, Synergy front LCA skids, and EVO rear LCA skids. None have been welded yet, but that is in the near-term plans. Teraflex and Artec are two other manufacturers of axles reinforcements and protection.

rundm

· #4 · Oct 27, 2012

I had the Evo off road gussets and 44 magnum sleeves installed in mine. Great job done by the guys that did the work. I shouldn't have to worry about anything on the front for awhile now. Next is the duelly d2 lights and the front bumper.

wrh3

· #5 · Oct 27, 2012

We're having the Artec front axle armor kit welded in now, should be ready to pick up Monday: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

From my research this will be better than sleeves, time will tell.

WatchThis!

· #6 · Oct 27, 2012

wrh3 said:
We're having the Artec front axle armor kit welded in now, should be ready to pick up Monday: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

From my research this will be better than sleeves, time will tell.

What is it that makes you say they are better then sleeves? Stronger yeah but better I don't know. (honest question here)

kjeeper10

· #7 · Oct 27, 2012

WatchThis! said:
What is it that makes you say they are better then sleeves? Stronger yeah but better I don't know. (honest question here)

X2

I think that truss is overkill for what most do.
Watchthis this doesn't include you

wrh3

· #8 · Oct 27, 2012

Overkill is what I'm all about, I only want to do something once. Stronger=Better for me. Sleeves make the axle tube harder to damage but don't provide the support across the width of the axle that a properly engineered truss does, I read where several sleeve owners had still bent or broken their axle housing at the differential. Sleeves also limit axle selection but really, I doubt I will ever go to a 35 spline axle.

Bottom line is I don't want to worry about a bent axle and the system from Artec was the best choice for me, YMMV.

I doubt on my wife's Jeep we will ever lift or go bigger then 33" tires so in my application it probably is overkill, but the OP is asking about the best option for 37" tires where it might not be overkill but stronger than sleeves and keep their axle from smiling.

RacecarBMW

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 27, 2012

Ok so I'm going to order that Artec kit that wrh3 mentioned. I'm going to be getting someone to weld it on but I was wondering what would be the best order to do things.

Here is what I have right now:
-A lift kit
-A set of 37 inch tires
- Ordering the Artec kit
- Ordering 4.88 differentials.

Should I get these welded before or after the differentials? Does it make a difference and what would be easier?

Also one last quick question might seem a little stupid, but do I need to do anything to reinforce the rear or is it pretty much well of with out anything?

RacecarBMW

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 27, 2012

Also I kind of lied in the post directly above

I haven't ordered any new gears... I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on the brand to go with? I have a 2012 Automatic

and I was planning on 4.88 anyone know of any gears that are compatible and hold up well?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Beastmaster

· #11 · Oct 27, 2012 (Edited)

I can't speak on the gears but on doing my research (this thread and several others, as well as other sources) on beefing up my front axle, I believe I've broken things down to more bitesized portions. Granted, all situations are different but this is what would fit any situations someone like me would encounter. I have a 2007 JKU, currently with 35" tires and it is 90% DD and 10% off road (light to moderate)

33" tires = Stock axle is fine for DD and light to moderate off-roading. For rock crawling, should consider gussets (the armor that goes on the axle "Cs")
35" tires = Stock axle is fine as DD but for light off roading should install gussets. For moderate off roading, should install trusses (armor installed to the outside of the axle). For rock crawling, should consider sleeves (tubing that goes inside the axle)
37" tires and up = DD should at least put on gussets and any off roading should have trusses and sleeves.

Then things come down to the money:

opcorn:

I have flipped back and forth on how I am going to beef up my axle for my 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec stuff was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves.

Well . . .

Looking at Synergy parts for example, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor.

And that brings the total to $200.

So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter?

Add to the fact that the shipping was cheap (granted I am in the same state), I'm sold. In fact I placed my order but they are currently on back order but should have them in a week or so.

:thumb:

I'll be interested in the replies you get on gears.

See less See more

kjeeper10

· #12 · Oct 27, 2012 (Edited by Moderator)

Beastmaster said:
I can't speak on the gears but on doing my research (this thread and several others, as well as other sources) on beefing up my front axle, I believe I've broken things down to more bitesized portions. Granted, all situations are different but this is what would fit any situations someone like me would encounter. I have a 2007 JKU, currently with 35" tires and it is 90% DD and 10% off road (light to moderate)
[*]33" tires = Stock axle is fine for DD and light to moderate off-roading. For rock crawling, should consider gussets (the armor that goes on the axle "Cs")
[*]35" tires = Stock axle is fine as DD but for light off roading should install gussets. For moderate off roading, should install trusses (armor installed to the outside of the axle). For rock crawling, should consider sleeves (tubing that goes inside the axle)
[*]37" tires and up = DD should at least put on gussets and any off roading should have trusses and sleeves.
Then things come down to the money: opcorn:

I have flipped back and forth on how I am going to beef up my axle for my 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec stuff was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves.

Well . . .

Looking at Synergy parts for example, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor.

And that brings the total to $200.

So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter?

Add to the fact that the shipping was cheap (granted I am in the same state), I'm sold. In fact I placed my order but they are currently on back order but should have them in a week or so.

Then the install/welding if you don't have the skill.
Don't they recommend the axle removed for best results ?

kramer2k

· #13 · Oct 27, 2012

kjeeper10 said:
Then the install/welding if you don't have the skill.
Don't they recommend the axle removed for best results ?

I'm getting my gussets and front/rear LCA skids welded on in a couple hours. I'll let you know how it goes since we're not removing the axle. I'll remove the LCA and shocks from their pockets to weld the LCA skids. And we'll remove the springs to do the gusset welds.

kjeeper10

· #14 · Oct 27, 2012

kramer2k said:
I'm getting my gussets and front/rear LCA skids welded on in a couple hours. I'll let you know how it goes since we're not removing the axle. I'll remove the LCA and shocks from their pockets to weld the LCA skids. And we'll remove the springs to do the gusset welds.

:wavey:

As for as gussets. Only concern is toasting the factory ball joints.

kramer2k

· #15 · Oct 27, 2012

kjeeper10 said:
:wavey:

As for as gussets. Only concern is toasting the factory ball joints.

Well, scratch that project for today. My welder is grilling out and enjoying the GA-FL football game today. It was a last minute thing calling him, but it will have to be done Monday I suppose.

To avoid cooking the ball joints we'll just lay down a weld, cool it, then move to the other side. We'll alternate back and forth so as to avoid heating them up too much. We'll see how it goes. If it goes bad, hello Synergy ball joints.

kjeeper10

· #16 · Oct 27, 2012

kramer2k said:
Well, scratch that project for today. My welder is grilling out and enjoying the GA-FL football game today. It was a last minute thing calling him, but it will have to be done Monday I suppose.

To avoid cooking the ball joints we'll just lay down a weld, cool it, then move to the other side. We'll alternate back and forth so as to avoid heating them up too much. We'll see how it goes. If it goes bad, hello Synergy ball joints.

Use a soaked wash cloth and cover the joints. Keep it soaked,

Sueby

· #17 · Oct 27, 2012

kramer2k said:
I'm getting my gussets and front/rear LCA skids welded on in a couple hours. I'll let you know how it goes since we're not removing the axle. I'll remove the LCA and shocks from their pockets to weld the LCA skids. And we'll remove the springs to do the gusset welds.

I can't remember which skids you went with but the guys who did mine ended up drilling 2 holes in them to drain - the Evo ones are open in the back and will completely puddle water/mud/crap. Almost seems like a design flaw. Anyway, something to consider depending on the design of yours.

kjeeper10

· #18 · Oct 27, 2012

Wouldn't bolt on CA skids preform just as well. Easily removed as well?

kramer2k

· #19 · Oct 27, 2012

Sueby said:
I can't remember which skids you went with but the guys who did mine ended up drilling 2 holes in them to drain - the Evo ones are open in the back and will completely puddle water/mud/crap. Almost seems like a design flaw. Anyway, something to consider depending on the design of yours.

I went with Synergy front LCA skids and EVO rear LCA skids. That's a good tip about a hole. I'll drill a couple holes after we're done. Could you post a picture showing where they drilled?

First off, LMFAO at your tire balancer avatar Ken!

I wanted a strong weld-on skid as opposed to a bolt on. I see no reason to remove them once they're on.

Sueby

· #20 · Oct 27, 2012

kramer2k said:
I went with Synergy front LCA skids and EVO rear LCA skids. That's a good tip about a hole. I'll drill a couple holes after we're done. Could you post a picture showing where they drilled?

First off, LMFAO at your tire balancer avatar Ken!

I wanted a strong weld-on skid as opposed to a bolt on. I see no reason to remove them once they're on.

Lmao - i couldnt tell what his avi was! I will get a pic for you - its kinda dark here but I'll see.

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