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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the need for some better lighting. The stock H13 bulbs (even changed them to Silverstars), just aren't cutting it anymore. I don't really want to go with LEDs, I don't care for the way they perform in the snow and rain. Looking at the KC HiLights 7" H4 conversion. Is it really any improvement over the factory headlights on a 2017 that use the H13 bulbs, or just a waste of money?
 

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We upgraded both of our JKUs to Hella H4 E-codes. If the KC design is similar, will be a major improvement for few $$. Some alignment may be required.
 

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If you use JScan or AppCar DiagFCA, there’s a setting that allows you to increase the headlight voltage, I think up to 13.8V. That helped significantly.
 

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We upgraded both of our JKUs to Hella H4 E-codes. If the KC design is similar, will be a major improvement for few $$. Some alignment may be required.
Had Hella E-codes in my TJ and liked the improvement over OEM.
 

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An H4 bulb is intrinsically better than an H13. More metal in the blade connectors, better winding of the filament, better focus.

The Jscan voltage upgrade would give that better bulb more juice. Better and better. And several parabolas for H4s are upgrades too.
In order of what's available easily, Cibie, Hella, that's it.
Cibie you can get from Daniel Stern. He might even have some bypass harnesses left over from his "garage sale" at a good price (even more power than the Jscan).

And yeah, it's a good upgrade. Measurably very close to the actual light from a legal/safe LED but with the great SPD of halogen. And don't buy Silverstars --- when they were made in Germany by Osram they were good; today's aren't. Buy Philips Xtreme to get the best bulbs

The KC parabola wouldn't be on my buy list.
 
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I have the KC variety. I got a killer deal from Northridge a few years back. They are a noticeable improvement.

I thoughts to the safety of running 13.8 volts through them? This could motivate me to by Jscan.


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We upgraded both of our JKUs to Hella H4 E-codes. If the KC design is similar, will be a major improvement for few $$. Some alignment may be required.
I have hella e codes in my JK and MJ, the YJ has hella vision plus (DOT approved). I'm happy with all of them.
 

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I have the KC variety. I got a killer deal from Northridge a few years back. They are a noticeable improvement.

I thoughts to the safety of running 13.8 volts through them? This could motivate me to by Jscan.
As long as you're running 55w bulbs, no problem. If you have upgraded to 65w bulbs, use a bypass harness.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ended up ordering the KC kit due to price and availability. Installed yesterday and I'll try them out tonight on the way home from work. One thing to note, they fit very loose in the headlight bracket/ bucket. They twisted side to side a few mm. I just put two layers of gorilla tape just on the locator tabs and that tightened them up. Considering the design hasn't changed since 2007, they should fit like a glove. I have an email in to KC to see if they know anything.
 

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Ended up ordering the KC kit due to price and availability. Installed yesterday and I'll try them out tonight on the way home from work. One thing to note, they fit very loose in the headlight bracket/ bucket. They twisted side to side a few mm. I just put two layers of gorilla tape just on the locator tabs and that tightened them up. Considering the design hasn't changed since 2007, they should fit like a glove. I have an email in to KC to see if they know anything.
KC doesn't make them --- it's a rebranded Amazon-ish bucket of dubious quality. There are much better buckets & lenses out there.
 

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I will have to disagree with most on this thread. I replaced the original Wagner sealed beams in my TJ and then the OEM headlights in my 2015 with the Hella H4 housings (fit was perfect) and then replaced the Hella bulbs with Osram Nite Breaker bulbs which were whiter than the Hellas, but still 55/60 watts. They were a distinct improvement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G72SKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G4L23PY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EVJC3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This last link is to the KC branded pig tails as the cheap Chinese ones I purchased at the time I purchased the housings were unsatisfactory as the pins kept moving and would not make complete contact with the Jeeps harness.

Then I traded in the '15 Sahara on my '17 Chief and it came standard with the Mopar LEDs (JK Saharas and Rubicons from 2016-18 the LEDs were standard equipment). They were so much better than the H4s (which were better than the H13s) that my position on the value of the LEDs changed.

Several months back, Quadratec had a sale on their GenII LED headlights and I finally purchased a pair for my TJ. They are every bit as good as the stock Mopars in my Chief, but on the high beam I think they are a bit better. In all cases, proper alignment is key, but I did not have to change the alignment on my TJ. Unlike some of the cheap China stuff, the low beams are flat topped so as to not blind on coming vehicles. The illuminated area of the lights has more of a sharp cutoff on the sides than incandescent lights.

All LEDs have some significant differences to the incandescent lights we're used to. It is whiter than incandescent. But, if you are in a cold climate with ice and snow, they are colder than incandescent and suffer some buildup of snow and ice. There are heated LEDs available for just that purpose, but they are more expensive.

The GenIIs for the JK/JKU from Quadratec are not heated, but do include the Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) module which also serves as the H13 to H4 pigtail. The PWM module removes the native flickering of LEDs on the Canbus system. LED stands for Light Emitting Diode and is either on or off while incandescent bulb have a decay time to come on than go off, so when the Canbus turns off, they still appear to be on, while the LEDs go off and then back on (60 times a second, but the flicker is noticeable in some situations). All LEDs for the JK/JKU require the PWM and most high quality LEDs include the module, either built in or as part of the pigtail.

Here is the link to the JK headlight section of the Quadratec website. There are 87 different options. The best value in the LEDs is the GenII non heated at $330. I love the ones in my TJ and would not go back. (The ones for the TJ are identical except without the PWM module and are $30 cheaper as a result).

https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/2007-2017-jeep-wrangler-jk/lighting-lenses-bulbs/headlights
 
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When I first bought my 2013 JKU and I discovered how bad the stock lights were, I did a lot of research and there was a lot of talk about how good Cibie reflectors and H4 bulbs were. So, I installed Cibie reflectors and Philips 130+ bulbs. They were an improvement, but I still was not very happy with them. The low beams were good, but I was not happy with the brights. The light was very dispersed and did not seem too bright with the high beams.

I was frustrated so I bought the Quadratec LED headlights and they are a huge improvement over both the stock light and the Cibies. The low beams light up the road very well and the high beams are bright and they project the light ahead very well. When I am on a remote interstate at night with no street lights, the brights really light up the road very well. I wish I had gone straight to the Quadratec lights instead of wasting money on the Cibies and H4 bulbs.
 
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