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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,
I'm new on here but my '01 has been hard to start and getting worse latley. It will not start on the first attempt, but will start consistantly on the 2nd or 3rd. Does anyone have any idea why this would be? I was thinking maybe a bad coil. Any sugestions and how to determine what it is.
Thanks,
Dave
 

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When was the last time the plugs were changed? I believe, but not 100% that your Jeep has the coil rail system. If not, when was the cap and rotor last changed?

However, Jeeps are famous for the anti-drainback valve in the fuel system going bad. This makes for a long crank or having to try a second or third time to get it to start. Next time you go to start your Jeep, turn the key on, then put your seat belt on check the mirrors, and seat adjustments, shut the key off, then it should start right up. This is a fairly common condition, no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea it's the coil rail system, is there a good way to test and see if it is in spec for it's output? This is my third jeep but first in the TJ family, decided to step it up to the coil suspension! That being said I haven't changed the spark plugs since i bought the jeep about 6 months ago so I will probably do that today. In regards to the fuel anti-drain back valve, is there any way to test it's functionality or how expensive/hard is it to replace? Thanks all for the quick responces and help, it's my day off and i want to fix the girls issues!
 

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Jeepcrawln, I have no idea how to fix the anti-drain back valve or how expensive it is. My 98 had this issue, and I just lived with it!
 

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It's not a bad coil or ignition coil rail. Your slow start, which is a fairly common issue, is caused by a defective/leaky antidrainback check valve which is supposed to keep fuel up in the fuel lines for fast starts even after the engine has been sitting overnight. There are actually two check valves, one inside the fuel pressure regulator which is the primary check valve, and the other check valve is located at the bottom of the fuel pump itself.

You can take a chance, odds are good this is the cause, by replacing just the fuel pressure regulator that sits outside the fuel tank, on top of the fuel pump that is below inside the fuel tank. Or you can take the safe way and replace the complete fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator assembly.

The below shows when I replaced the fuel pressure regulator last year to fix the same problem. It's not a difficult job, just make sure your gas tank is nearly empty before you start the job which involoves dropping the tank.
 

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Sorry for hijacking, but I have the same problem and have not been able to resolve it.
Plugs replaced (worn out with a huge gap), plug rail replaced, fuel pump assembly replaced (fuel pressure was dropping), TPS replaced (CODE). It does it when hot worse than cold. Most mornings it starts on the first attempt after about two or three seconds. When it's heat soaked and sitting for 10 minutes or so, it takes two sometimes three attempts of about 3 seconds each. When it's hot and only a few minutes like a gas fill up, it starts right up. Mine is a 2002 Sahara Cali version.
Any ideas? Injectors? O2 sensors?
 

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When you replaced the fuel pump, did you also replace the fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the fuel pump?

The below pic shows the fuel pressure regulator...
 

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I <3 My Jeep
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I'm experiencing the samething on the Jeep.

It sounded exactly like this problem: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/help-new-battery-but-problems-with-starting-87664.html

Which what Jerry said here, fuel pressure regulator.

However when I took it the shop, they said fuel pump.

They replaced fuel pump, still had the issue so..they confirmed IT IS the fuel pressure regulator.

I paid $219 for fuel pump/module, $10 strainer @ Autozone and labor is like $200.

Jeep will be back home tomorrow.
 

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Yes. Replaced the entire assembly. It was really bad before. No pressure on the rail in the mornings and every start it would misfire for a few blocks. I doubt the regulator/fuel pump because the off/on/off/on trick doesn't make any difference cold or warm. It's just a bit worse when warm.
I'll check the rail pressure again just to be sure. Please pass on any ideas.
 

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Jerry Bransford said:
It's not a bad coil or ignition coil rail. Your slow start, which is a fairly common issue, is caused by a defective/leaky antidrainback check valve which is supposed to keep fuel up in the fuel lines for fast starts even after the engine has been sitting overnight. There are actually two check valves, one inside the fuel pressure regulator which is the primary check valve, and the other check valve is located at the bottom of the fuel pump itself.

You can take a chance, odds are good this is the cause, by replacing just the fuel pressure regulator that sits outside the fuel tank, on top of the fuel pump that is below inside the fuel tank. Or you can take the safe way and replace the complete fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator assembly.

The below shows when I replaced the fuel pressure regulator last year to fix the same problem. It's not a difficult job, just make sure your gas tank is nearly empty before you start the job which involoves dropping the tank.
I have a check engine light on (small evaporative leak) and its sometimes hard to crank. Would a defective fuel pressure regulator cause the evaporative leak fault code? Have had a smoke test and repaired all hoses to solve check engine. Wondering if this could be my issue?
 

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I have this same issue.. The PO put it in the shop and they said they could find no problem with it. Usually i will turn on the key until it stopped beeping, crank for about 3 seconds and stop crank again, sometimes it will start at the very beginning of the second try, sometimes it will start on the third try. As jerry stated above, It is most likely the fuel pressure regulator. Please let me know If replacing that fixed your problems. thanks!
 

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I have a check engine light on (small evaporative leak) and its sometimes hard to crank. Would a defective fuel pressure regulator cause the evaporative leak fault code? Have had a smoke test and repaired all hoses to solve check engine. Wondering if this could be my issue?
Probably more likely to be a cracked hose, fitting, or leaky gas cap. Aftermarket locking gas caps, if you have one, are notorious for leaking air and causing a check engine light. Even the factory non-locking gas cap will probably eventually devlop a leak, mine did.

When you say it is sometimes hard to crank, do you really mean it is sometimes hard to start? Cranking the engine and starting the engine are two different things. :)
 

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Jerry Bransford said:
Probably more likely to be a cracked hose, fitting, or leaky gas cap. Aftermarket locking gas caps, if you have one, are notorious for leaking air and causing a check engine light. Even the factory non-locking gas cap will probably eventually devlop a leak, mine did.

When you say it is sometimes hard to crank, do you really mean it is sometimes hard to start? Cranking the engine and starting the engine are two different things. :)
I meant start. Seems worse when park on incline, but will fire off on 2nd or 3rd try. In regards to check engine light, had shop do smoke test and replace all hoses. Even replaced gas cap. Light came back after a week. I thought I had read on a thread that the faulty fuel pressure pump could cause the same evaporative check engine light but not sure. Just curious if the two are related? Thanks for the reply! :)
 

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Just joined this site as I have the same issue and have had zero luck with getting it solved. Only difference in mine now is the cycling on/off of the key trick doesnt help at all. I can turn it to start crank for a bit and it starts or what I noticed now is when it acts up if I hit the gas it starts right up. If you cure your issue please post what finally cured it as I would be very interested
 

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My 02' was doing the same thing so I put a pressure gauge on the rail and noticed I lost 25psi in a minute. I replaced the entire unit in the tank, including the regulator, and it worked great for a day, then back to the same problem. You guys think I got a bad unit from the parts store? -Andy
 
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