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Discussion Starter #1
On the JK hard tops, is the mounting surface flat? Or is there a lip that extends downward toward the outside body a little bit? Reason I ask is because I might be buying a used hard top and I am trying to figure out how to transport it on my utility trailer. Will the hard top sit flat on a hard surface with the bolt holes touching the ground, or will it be sitting on a sharp edge because of a lip that possibly runs around the bottom edge of the top? Is this question confusing?
 

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You will be fine. I store mine on the floor in my garage when it is off and it just sits flat. I put a couple blankets under it to cushion it, though.
 

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WXman said:
On the JK hard tops, is the mounting surface flat? Or is there a lip that extends downward toward the outside body a little bit? Reason I ask is because I might be buying a used hard top and I am trying to figure out how to transport it on my utility trailer. Will the hard top sit flat on a hard surface with the bolt holes touching the ground, or will it be sitting on a sharp edge because of a lip that possibly runs around the bottom edge of the top? Is this question confusing?
Yep. Mine is completely flat except for the couple locating pins that stick out.
 

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It is a sharp edge on the top itself. It is strong enough to support the weight of the top, but I would suggest at the very least some towels or foam padding or you will chip up the paint on that edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.
 

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I would think about some 2X4's and a router. put a groove as deep as the lip should ride nice that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I think I'm going to use 2x4s and build something that i can actually fasten the hardtop down to. Then it'll be on the boards like skids...and I can set that on the trailer rails and tie it down.
 

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+1 on the 2x4. That method will also give you a little gap between the top and the deck, which will allow you to lower the back window without any clearance issues.

Just a thought, why not run some lag bolts with a rubber/nylon washer through the already existing bolt holes on the top and into the 2x4s? Also, don't forget to account for the alignment pegs. They stick out about an inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
+1 on the 2x4. That method will also give you a little gap between the top and the deck, which will allow you to lower the back window without any clearance issues.

Just a thought, why not run some lag bolts with a rubber/nylon washer through the already existing bolt holes on the top and into the 2x4s? Also, don't forget to account for the alignment pegs. They stick out about an inch.
That's actually what I had in mind. I'm going to bolt the top to some 2x4 blocks that I cut about 4" long. Then I'm going to screw those blocks to the longer 2x4s that stretch the width of the top. That way the top will be resting on it's intended mounting pads, and not on the sharp lip around the bottom edge. I think this will work fine.

I know this question seems finicky but you and I both know that hard tops for these things are very expensive.
 

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WXman said:
That's actually what I had in mind. I'm going to bolt the top to some 2x4 blocks that I cut about 4" long. Then I'm going to screw those blocks to the longer 2x4s that stretch the width of the top. That way the top will be resting on it's intended mounting pads, and not on the sharp lip around the bottom edge. I think this will work fine.

I know this question seems finicky but you and I both know that hard tops for these things are very expensive.
Great minds think alike, they say. Maybe run some felt or something soft between the wood and the rubber top lining. Splinters can ruin your day.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the top home safe and sound. It's a 2011+ style JKU hardtop with factory tinted glass. Paid $500 for it. It has one spot on the bottom that needs some repair but overall its a nice top. Thanks guys.

Now I can put my soft top up for sale.
 
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