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Okay... I have a 2010 2-door and am picking up a 2011 hardtop next weekend. The seller was told by a third party that his top would only fit '11 and newer models without modification to the footman's hoops on '10 and older. Not knowing the truth to this, I done some research and found almost no information on the subject on any forums or Youtube. It is my understanding form that research that only '07-'08 models need to be modified, '09+ models all have the correct hoop location for the later top from the factory. Is this correct?

I also found contradicting information on the wiring harness (wiring harness, multi-function switch, washer pump, and hose), which I am purchasing separately from the top. Some sellers advertise it to be a plug-and-play setup, others state that the "hardtop function" must be activated on the CAN system by a dealer. Is there any truth to this, and if so, who makes a programmer or sells affordable software that handles advanced functions like this? I'm a diesel technician who is very familiar with CAN-BUS operation, and would much prefer to avoid my local dealer if it is possible.

Thanks. :wavey:
 

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I have some experience with this as I have a 2011 top on my 2008. To get it to fit, you need to do 1 modification. On a 2011 there are 4 guide pins in the back piece of the hard top. On your jeep there should only be 2 holes. Bring some Allen wrenches as you need to pop off the rubber cap and remove the 2 rear guide pins. After that it should fit perfectly. As for the hook in the front, the 2 header latches will both still work perfect but the flimsy hardtop latch in the middle will be less useful. You could modify it and cut up the plastic and move the hook or you can leave it like I did. 2 years and 25k miles and I'm fine. The middle latch is actually long enough that I use the handle part as the latch and that surprisingly works perfect. I think the wiring kits are the same and I think you just buy the one that will for your jeep's year, not your hardtop's. good luck with your purchase!

Edit: I know you asked about 09-10 and I'm pretty sure they didn't change the header design to relocate that center thing until the new hardtops came out In 2011

And yes if you wire it yourself you have to get your hard drive flashed by a dealer before It will allow the hardtop electronics to work but it should be a couple minute job and I've had quotes from $50-70 which is a rip off for that little work but its not a crazy huge amount of money. Unfortunately I'm unaware of a programmer that can do this
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have some experience with this as I have a 2011 top on my 2008. To get it to fit, you need to do 1 modification. On a 2011 there are 4 guide pins in the back piece of the hard top. On your jeep there should only be 2 holes. Bring some Allen wrenches as you need to pop off the rubber cap and remove the 2 rear guide pins. After that it should fit perfectly. As for the hook in the front, the 2 header latches will both still work perfect but the flimsy hardtop latch in the middle will be less useful. You could modify it and cut up the plastic and move the hook or you can leave it like I did. 2 years and 25k miles and I'm fine. The middle latch is actually long enough that I use the handle part as the latch and that surprisingly works perfect. I think the wiring kits are the same and I think you just buy the one that will for your jeep's year, not your hardtop's. good luck with your purchase!

Edit: I know you asked about 09-10 and I'm pretty sure they didn't change the header design to relocate that center thing until the new hardtops came out In 2011

And yes if you wire it yourself you have to get your hard drive flashed by a dealer before It will allow the hardtop electronics to work but it should be a couple minute job and I've had quotes from $50-70 which is a rip off for that little work but its not a crazy huge amount of money. Unfortunately I'm unaware of a programmer that can do this
Thanks, that is exactly what I needed to know. I will probably trailer it back to the house and install it at home just in case I do have to do some modification, but your input puts me at ease on the large amount of cash about to leave my pocket. :eek: With all the racks on the market and the luxury of the "Freedom top", it may become a permanent fixture on my rig. :)
 

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sheepdog168 said:
Thanks, that is exactly what I needed to know. I will probably trailer it back to the house and install it at home just in case I do have to do some modification, but your input puts me at ease on the large amount of cash about to leave my pocket. :eek: With all the racks on the market and the luxury of the "Freedom top", it may become a permanent fixture on my rig. :)
No problem.

With a hoist in the garage, they really are a top that you can have as your only top and still enjoy the convertible aspect.

When using the 2 hand twisting bolts on the roof, don't overtighten them. That can actually cause leaks. And make sure you have it all set up right before you latch the front panels down. Mine leaked last year but even in sandy it hasn't leaked this year so it must have been a fitment issue
 
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