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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know where I can get the instructions on how to rebuild my harmonic balancer myself? I have googled the heck out of it but can't find instructions on how to do it myself... and where to get the rubber.
 

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I would just replace it. They are not that expensive.
 

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Does anyone know where I can get the instructions on how to rebuild my harmonic balancer myself? I have googled the heck out of it but can't find instructions on how to do it myself... and where to get the rubber.
That's a lot like rebuilding a blown-out tire. There is a good reason you didn't find an instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, mine is unique. I just got the engine back from having it transformed into a Stroker so the old 2000 balancer didn't work (snout is longer on the 87 so the pullies didn't line up, about 3/8ths off). I need one that fits the 87 4.2 Crank.... I spent 2 hours on the phone yesterday looking all over and finally found one in California for $150 shipped.

....THEN I just happened to get lucky and the local Jeep store (collinsbrosjeep.com) had one for $45, THANK GOD, but it needs to be rebuilt because the rubber is a little old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Engine Shop is pushing my limits!!!!

Cut the snout off or get a hat washer.
ATI is the only one that can be rebuilt that I know of
I think the Engine Shop forgot to do the machining on the snout and or used the wrong Timing set, now they are back peddling and trying to have me "rig" up a fix for it. None of what they have told me is working.

They used a 1987 4.2 Crank in my 2000 Block.

I tried my 2000 balancer, didn't work. Allignment of pullies was off by 3/8ths of an inch. Balancer stuck out 3/8ths.

So, I called them and they said find a balancer from an 87, so I did... Didn't work, still same issue. The balancer stuck out 3/8ths of an inch.

I called around and one of the engine shops told me to try to put a 3/8ths inch washer in and crank it down and push the balancer in, leave the washer and put the bolt (with the original washer) over that. I tried it and the timing cover has a 1/2inch "ledge" on it that won't allow the balancer to be pushed back, and I pushed a screwdriver back into the hole and the crank doesn't have much room back in there before it hits metal and won't go in any farther.

I am about at my witts end with the engine shop... I think they are trying to BS their way around fixing the issue, which would entail them towing my jeep to their shop and removing everything, then doing the crank work, then putting it all back together...

I will post pics of the offset when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Original 2000 balancer

ForumRunner_20120203_201912.jpg

1987 balancer

ForumRunner_20120203_201946.jpg

You can see my issue.
 

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Hum. That's wears. I haven't ran into that and I've built quite a few of them.
So the snout of the crank is not sticking out of the balancer?
Sounds like the crank gear is to thick for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The snout sticks out of the timing cover without the balancer on, but only an inch or so.

The 87 balancer may work with the washer set up. Like an idiot I got mad and quit before I tried the 87 balancer with the washer technique.... But I don't know, the off set is still the same for both balancers, i just hope the 87 balancer has a shorter back part so I can push it in the timing housing farther.

I am still thinking the crank or timing set is wrong? I will have more info tomorrow after the shop reads my email....lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's a closer shot of the 87 and gives a better idea of the offset issue. Its close, but I don't think I can push it back towards the timing cover any more. It's almost touching.

ForumRunner_20120203_221205.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If i get to the shop tomorrow i will look up the different ones and what spacing they are.
Thanks for the assistance :thumb:
 

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I didn't find anything on a 258 with a serpentine belt.
but this is what i found on the only two i know of.

4.0 pb1439n. 87 and up

nose OD 1.779
crank bore 1.122
overall width 1.870
pulley diameter 6.716

2.5 pb1482n

nose OD 1.791
crank bore 1.122
overall width 2.137
pulley diameter 6.712

these are the only two i found. the 2.5 is longer than the 4.0.
the nose is on the 2.5 is a little bigger (0.012)

Crank gear is all i can think of that is keeping the 4.0 balancer not lining up
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I didn't find anything on a 258 with a serpentine belt.
but this is what i found on the only two i know of.

4.0 pb1439n. 87 and up

nose OD 1.779
crank bore 1.122
overall width 1.870
pulley diameter 6.716

2.5 pb1482n

nose OD 1.791
crank bore 1.122
overall width 2.137
pulley diameter 6.712

these are the only two i found. the 2.5 is longer than the 4.0.
the nose is on the 2.5 is a little bigger (0.012)

Crank gear is all i can think of that is keeping the 4.0 balancer not lining up

i was looking at it again and I think the original balancer (the 2000 yr model) will work so I ordered the crank balancer spacer from hesco. hopefully it works and pushes the balancer back far enough because it was $35 + shipping....
 

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Well, mine is unique. I just got the engine back from having it transformed into a Stroker so the old 2000 balancer didn't work (snout is longer on the 87 so the pullies didn't line up, about 3/8ths off). I need one that fits the 87 4.2 Crank.... I spent 2 hours on the phone yesterday looking all over and finally found one in California for $150 shipped.

....THEN I just happened to get lucky and the local Jeep store (collinsbrosjeep.com) had one for $45, THANK GOD, but it needs to be rebuilt because the rubber is a little old.
The machine shop could have easily machined the crank snout to accept the 4.0L balancer. This is a common practice. Either they are not very familiar with stroked 4.0L's or they forgot. Either way I can't believe they are leaving it up to you to figure out.

Here is a little info I found on Jeep crankshafts (I did not write this):

Crankshaft

At the heart of any stroker kit is the AMC 258 crankshaft. This appeared in AMC 258 (Jeep 4.2) engines in various guises as shown below:

Year.........Casting No......Description
1971.........3199738.........For Borg Warner automatic
1972-80...3214723.........12 counterweights, 66lb, 64mm nose
1981-86...3235477.........4 counterweights, 46lb, 64mm nose
1987-90...3727...............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose

For comparison, the 4.0 crankshaft has 8 counterweights, weighs 55lb, and has a 54mm nose.
The #3214723 crank is reputed to the the strongest. The extra counterweights dampen vibration-inducing harmonics to produce a smoother running engine. The #3214723 and #3235477 cranks have a longer nose that was originally designed to accomodate a V-belt crank pulley. This needs to be shortened by 1.0cm if the serpentine pulley from the 4.0 is to be used. Alternatively, a custom 1.0cm thick spacer can be made to fit in front of the pulley thereby avoiding the need to shorten the crank nose. The nose of the #3727 crank is already the same length as that of the stock 4.0 crank so it doesn't require any modification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks scot68, I think you are right on both points


Not sure if this will help. But I can get .090 of feeler gauge between the balancer and front cover
Thanks, I was a little concerned with the spacing, I wondered if it could be "to close" but your measurement makes me feel a little better about snugging it up tight.
 
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