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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is anyone running them? Alloy USA or Synergy? I noticed they were a little expensive, but are they even worth it? Also, what about the EBC brakes or kits? Thanks for your input!
 

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EBC yellow pads and slotted and drilled rotors sitting in a box for the D30 up front. Haven't installed yet. Could not find a two piston caliper for an 89.

The 95 double diaphragm booster and master is a great upgrade can be found on extreme terrain but is $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Joker, I have the ECB brakes with slotted rotors sitting in the shopping cart :). Now if I could get someone to chime in on the ball joints ;)
 

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I've got the Moog HD ball joints, greasable and very heavy duty. But they do cost a bit more
 

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Thank you Tiger! I'll look into those as well. Just a few more weeks and I'll be able to start getting down and dirty! Can't wait!
 

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I have been looking into brakes, what is so good about the one y'all are talkin bout?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From what I understand the compounds they use have increased friction which helps stop faster (depending on your tires), alleviates fading and cuts down on brake dust (which isn't a big deal for me). Also if you run the slotted rotors the pads will wear more evenly and keep from eating up the rotors.
 

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Is anyone running them? Alloy USA or Synergy? I noticed they were a little expensive, but are they even worth it? Also, what about the EBC brakes or kits? Thanks for your input!
I have HD G2 ball joints and EBC G3 rotors and EBC green stuff pads on my 2011 wrangler the brakes are better than stock as for the ball joints it toke about 500 miles to get them to brake in once installed they where quit stiff they loosened up after brake in and now there great
 

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I have HD G2 ball joints and EBC G3 rotors and EBC green stuff pads on my 2011 wrangler the brakes are better than stock as for the ball joints it toke about 500 miles to get them to brake in once installed they where quit stiff they loosened up after brake in and now there great

The Fiat JK uses different ball joints than earlier Dana axles. The old Spicer ball joints that the YJ used did not have problems with premature wear so they do not need an upgrade. The Fiats on the other hand seem to have nothing but ball joint problems even with stock tires. They were probably engineered to fail like the rest of the van. You just got to love planned obsolescence.

If you own a YJ, Spicer brand ball joints are what you want to run you wont have any problems out of them for at least 100k if not more. And larger tires don't seem to make them wear any quicker they are good quality and only cost about $120 for a set of 4.
 
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Slotted rotors are great for collecting dirt and junk if you actually offroad the Jeep.
Much better if to go with something like Centric premium rotors.

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In that you are just wrong slotted rotors clean the pads off and give the dust a way to vacate the rotors thats what the slots are there for
 

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In that you are just wrong slotted rotors clean the pads off and give the dust a way to vacate the rotors thats what the slots are there for
How do they clean the pads? Friction between the flat pad and flat rotor cleans the pad and rotor.
Dust escapes during the time that is not at the caliper.
 
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Slotted rotors are great for collecting dirt and junk if you actually offroad the Jeep.
But does that impact the efficacy of braking while off-roading? Wet versus dry? Mud versus sand?
It would be interesting to find a test comparing slotted, slotted and drilled, versus smooth--especially as pads and rotors wear over time.
Maybe we could get Four Wheeler to donate lab time? :cool:

How do they clean the pads? Friction between the flat pad and flat rotor cleans the pad and rotor.
Dust escapes during the time that is not at the caliper.
My understanding that the slots were originally designed to allow dust and gas escape rather than get trapped between pad and rotor causing glazing. Newer pad materials have made this less of a problem.

John D
 

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I encourage everyone to go out and look at their disk brakes and calipers/pads.

The pads touch the rotors all the time even when you are not pressing on the brake pedal. The edge of the pad is going to clean the rotor as it rotates.
There is not a magical 1" gap between the two when you release the pedal.

If anything, slotted rotors allow more dirt to get between the two surfaces.

Just imo.

If someone thinks they look cool, by all means, it's your$$.

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Shark_13,
I am going to challenge your suppositions.
Hopefully, without making you feel attacked or causing offence--so that all can come out of this better educated. I am new to off-roading Jeeps, but not to tracking/riding MC, sport cars, and dirt biking (Which is the sum of nearly all my scars and broken bones--glad I was young if a bit stupid and able to heal! These days I try avoid such.)

I encourage everyone to go out and look at their disk brakes and calipers/pads.

The pads touch the rotors all the time even when you are not pressing on the brake pedal. The edge of the pad is going to clean the rotor as it rotates.
There is not a magical 1" gap between the two when you release the pedal.
Nobody was disputing that, but to be technical--there is about 400-600 micron gap due to rotor run out, which is intentional. This is so your brake pads are not squealing while driving down the road. The slots are meant for "during braking" to dispense dust and gas.

If anything, slotted rotors allow more dirt to get between the two surfaces.
Where is the data to back this up?
And, to my original question--what is the impact? Everything I've read counters your argument.

We can debate street/off-road versus track all day, but I don't know of a single Baja truck, dirt bike, SxS, or street/sport bike that doesn't run without at least drilled, slotted and drilled. Or, especially for dirt bikes--full on milled out rotors that have about half the surface to gap ratio... why is that when they ride dirt and mud etc.,? To clear out debris while off-roading?

For anyone looking at rotors for their Jeep... This is what I found and I'm sure there is more, so you can make your own educated decisions... keeping in mind that pads also add to the equation but that is another topic. :cool:

.
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Drive safe and best regards,
John D
 

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Every page you linked to is trying to sell you expensive rotors. 3-4x the cost of a centric premium.
Of course they will talk them up.

They do look cool, and it's your money.

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So, you actually didn't take the time to read the articles? ...

The articles in question highlighted the pros and cons of each (including smooth rotor benefits).

You seem more interested in making baseless claims about smooth verses slotted and/or drilled rotors.
Or, telling people they are wasting their money without taking into account other peoples use cases.

Are you wrong/are you right? Show me the data!

Otherwise!
Hold on to those beliefs while your brakes fade heading down the mountain pass towing a trailer, or cresting an incline rock face after a full day off-roading...

Or, to quote you!

"Sure if you want to believe that, have fun"

To everyone else--research, ask questions, and make up your own minds at the end of the day.


Best of luck and be safe,

John D
 
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