Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of MAY's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*** Mods, didn't know if this was JK specific so I didn't start this post in the lighting area***

I know a lot of us have changed out our headlights, some DOT legal and other not (please no legality debates here) so...

I recently retrofit some fxr projectors into my headlights and noticed the headlights were off, they were too narrow. I spent 28 hours (straight lol) working on the headlights during my "aiming" phase. In those 28 hours, about 4 hours I was working on making a huge shim out of camper seal (the foam kind on a roll) for both passenger and driver headlight. That's when I found the horizontal adjustment!

(And just so you know, the vertical adjustment is a silver colored t15 screw at about 10 o'clock on the passenger headlight and 2 o'clock on the drivers headlight. This can be done with the grille still on.)

Start by removing the grille. Then if you remove the headlight assembly, in between the headlight bracket and the mount for the headlight bracket, you will see a 15mm black bolt that's on the 4 and 6 o'clock position. The nut is attached to a threaded screw that allows the headlight bracket to move in and out depending on how you manipulate the bolts allow for horizontal adjustment.

Note that since it's basically a trangle, the 2 15mm bots and t15 screw, it may take sometime getting the alignment right as moving just the lower 15mm bolts will shift your beam downwards when movng them in upwards when moving them out. Also all clock references are when your lookng at the light.

If you need more assistance, I can upload some photos to help with some confusion.

I hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Ya man post some pics. I see the two black studs at the four and six oclock position that seem to me to be fixed. I do notice a square looking thin black nut that are flush with the back of the headlight bucket housing. Those also do not seem like they can be moved. Everything looks molded in one piece like a stud for stability. I just installed trucklites and they are crossed pretty bad. I could shim them but would rather adjust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,140 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
Yea read those, no pics though. I need to understand visually where these pivots are located. Second it doesnt appear the headlight ring bucket just pulls off by pulling forward like on our front grill! The instructions are too vague.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry guys I took so long been really busy lately but here are my bad photos, please feel free to PM me with more questions.

with front grill removed, headlights removed (passenger side), red arrows indicate where the bolts are:


A little better angle to show where bolts are threaded into housing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
So i take it you just back those square nuts off a bit from the back of the housing. Both of mine are currently flush against the rear. Thanks alot for the pics. Ill tell you these truck lites werent easy to adjust vertically either. I couldnt tell which light beam was which from driver to passenger. Regardless of what direction i went the cutoff beam patterns stayed blended together.

I still am not sure if they are level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,714 Posts
:thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So i take it you just back those square nuts off a bit from the back of the housing. Both of mine are currently flush against the rear. Thanks alot for the pics. Ill tell you these truck lites werent easy to adjust vertically either. I couldnt tell which light beam was which from driver to passenger. Regardless of what direction i went the cutoff beam patterns stayed blended together.

I still am not sure if they are level.
yeah man, if you back them out, it will change the beam direction. The tricky part is the triangle it makes because the 2 lower ones come out and the vertical adjustment is located above the horizontal ones.

Thanks for those pics.
My pleasure!:drinks:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
it may take sometime getting the alignment right as moving just the lower 15mm bolts will shift your beam downwards when movng them in upwards when moving them out. Also all clock references are when your lookng at the light.

If you need more assistance, I can upload some photos to help with some confusion.

I hope this helps!
I lost you at that part. I think my beams are narrow after the retrofit as well. I need to do a bit more adjusting.

Dd you bake your headlights or cut? If bake, how long and at what temp. Thanks in advance. I'm contemplating at doing another set for family.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
928 Posts
I forget where exactly I saw it ( it was on here but not sure what thread) but you can buy the mopar horizontal adjustment parts and put them in to your stock headlight cups. Then you can adjust horizontal aim the same as vertical, with a t15 screwdriver without removing the grille. I'll look for it and post back with a link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Landi, I take it you have swapped out the bucket per your other thread? Did it take much effort to remove the original bucket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,140 Posts
So i take it you just back those square nuts off a bit from the back of the housing. Both of mine are currently flush against the rear. Thanks alot for the pics. Ill tell you these truck lites werent easy to adjust vertically either. I couldnt tell which light beam was which from driver to passenger. Regardless of what direction i went the cutoff beam patterns stayed blended together.

I still am not sure if they are level.
Take a thick, dark colored towel and cover one headlight, then adjust the other headlight. Switch sides as needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
I ordered the horizontal adjustment screws from my dealer. Took one day. Cost less than $5.00

I didn't pop off the ring for fear of breaking something. I backed out the studs instead. Then replaced one screw per side. Not too hard. There would have been no way to properly adjust my Cibies otherwise. Don't fool around with shims or trying to adjust the horizontal stud. Horizontal adjustment screws is the only way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
I ordered the horizontal adjustment screws from my dealer. Took one day. Cost less than $5.00

I didn't pop off the ring for fear of breaking something. I backed out the studs instead. Then replaced one screw per side. Not too hard. There would have been no way to properly adjust my Cibies otherwise. Don't fool around with shims or trying to adjust the horizontal stud. Horizontal adjustment screws is the only way to go.
xzy, when you backed out the pivot stud, was it easy to free the groove from the compression collar on the ring? I have the horizontal screws here but also didn't want to ruin the ring/bucket cause new ones only come up the crappy lamp. I was thinking of pushing one of those screwdrivers (without tips) onto the pivot stud and hopefully the OD is large enough to relieve the tension tabs on the ring.

JK is with my daughter so it will have to wait.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
xzy, I was thinking of pushing one of those screwdrivers (without tips) onto the pivot stud and hopefully the OD is large enough to relieve the tension tabs on the ring.
I wouldn't do that.

It seemed I might break the sockets if I pulled the ring off. I backed out both studs along with the vertical screw. Once the ring was free it was very easy to pull the studs out with a pair of pliers.

On reassembly I put the the stud back in the ring socket along with both screws ( vertical and horizontal ) then screwed the pivot stud into the bucket along with the screws keeping the ring even. It took a little while to do that, but at least I knew I wasn't going to damage anything.

This is the approach I recommend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
I hear you, the material looks like it could break. Did you use an open wrench to back out the pivot studs?

I wouldn't do that.

It seemed I might break the sockets if I pulled the ring off. I backed out both studs along with the vertical screw. Once the ring was free it was very easy to pull the studs out with a pair of pliers.

On reassembly I put the the stud back in the ring socket along with both screws ( vertical and horizontal ) then screwed the pivot stud into the bucket along with the screws keeping the ring even. It took a little while to do that, but at least I knew I wasn't going to damage anything.

This is the approach I recommend.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top