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I have a few issues with my headlights on my 2006 TJ.

1. While trying to figure out why LED lights don't work properly on my Jeep, I found that there is a small amount of back feed power going into my high beam connector when low beams are on. This occurs only when one or both headlights are plugged in. When both headlights are disconnected there is no back feed going on.

Is this a normal occurrences?


2. When both or one headlight are plugged in the indicator light on the dash has a delay switching from high to low beams. This only occurs when the headlights are plugged in, when the headlights are unplugged it changes promptly. This occurs no matter what type of headlight is plugged in. The multifunction switch has recently been replaced.

What could possibly be causing this?

2. I've tried 3 sets of LED lights, all 3 need a canbus to light up on my Jeep. The last set I bought the company swears they are plug and play without any canbus for my Jeep, they don't work work at all just by plugging them in. I've used 4 different canbus trying to get them to work in synchronization, sometimes I can get one to dim and go bright, most of the time I can't get them to change it all.

If my Jeep does not need the canbus to operate LED headlights, why is it no LED's will work on my Jeep without a canbus?

Money pit!
 

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One of the first upgrades I did to my Jeep was a headlight harness upgrade, I built my own but the result was much like the video above. The light output was vastly better and whiter. I also opted for Hella light housings with H-4 bulbs the bulbs I chose were 55w/100 so my low beams are same as stock but my high beams are much improved. This upgrade is way cheaper than LED's and work nearly, if not as well. I did this upgrade about 8 years/70,000 miles ago and I have had zero issues I haven't even needed to replace a bulb.
 

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I got a similar harness upgrade from Partsam on Amazon for under $22.00.
I got the harness, because I wanted to make sure I was giving my new LED lights full (fused) power direct from the battery and new ground connections. True plug and play. No soldering or spliced connections. If I was upgrading from my dim sealed beam OEM halogens, I wanted to be sure my new lights were getting full power and had the most reliable connections to power and grounds.

I got these LX Light LED headlights on Amazon last year for less than $100 for the pair. Anti-flicker circuits are built into the lights. Plug and play on my 05. No moisture issues. No scratch issues. VERY Bright, white light! The debate is still going on about what lights are best, but I can say for less than $100, I am very happy with mine for the last year I have had them. I would buy them again (if I had to).



Very happy with both.
 

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I have a few issues with my headlights on my 2006 TJ.
2. I've tried 3 sets of LED lights, all 3 need a canbus to light up on my Jeep. The last set I bought the company swears they are plug and play without any canbus for my Jeep, they don't work work at all just by plugging them in. I've used 4 different canbus trying to get them to work in synchronization, sometimes I can get one to dim and go bright, most of the time I can't get them to change it all.
CANBUS is the type of electrical system the JK and JL Wrangler use. I don't think it was on the very first JK, but am not sure when it came in. It was not on any TJ that I know of.

What you are calling the "canbus" is most like the Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) that is required on LED headlights on the CANBUS system. The CANBUS system is not a pure DC but has a wave formation to it as it turns on and off rapidly. Incandescent lights have a decay when off so they don't switch instantly off and when the next pulse comes the light is only partially decayed do you don't see a flicker. LEDs are instant on and off and polarity sensitive. Hook one up backwards and it will not work.

LED is a Light Emitting Diode and a diode only passes current in one direction.

If you have an aftermarket light harness, it is possible that it may not be hooked up correctly. The stock harness has two +12v wires (low beam and high beam) and one -12v wire (ground). Most aftermarket harness have relays triggered by the stock headlight harness and the relay +12v is connected directly to the battery. If instead the ground was hooked directly to the +12v terminal of the battery and the +12v wire to the relays was hooked to ground, incandescent lights would work (as would the relays) but the LEDs would not even though the relays did.

Some PWM modules have full wave bridges in them to ensure that the output is the same even though the input + and - may have been switched.

Also feed back occurs when a light housing has two sources of hot and a bad ground. Typical in tail lights when the ground is bad or not present and when the brake lights are activated they feed back through the tail light connection and light up the front parking lights (had this happen with a bad ground on a trailer light, I noticed the parking lights came on when I hit the brakes by seeing then reflected from a vehicle in front).
 

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As rgreen mentioned above, you have a ground problem to be seeing voltage across the high beams when lows are on.
 
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