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The wrench could be set at 18/ft lbs. However torque wrenches and torque values are stated for dry un-lubricated threads, because there is no way to accurately calculate all the different effects different lubes can have on thread. Yes the wrench will click off at 18' pounds but the actual torque will be a lot higher. Which translates to crushing the washer a lot more and the cap going deeper into the housing, stressing it more.



https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html
Static and Dynamic Torque is like astronomy, the more you find out about it the more you realize what you don't know. Not sure if the Jeep Service Manual states dry un-lubed or if they convert to the environment you are torquing in. I would think they should adjust torque values as required like torquing connecting rod bolts should be in an oil environment as should be the oil filter cap. Torque specs are usually dry un-lubed or as received new with the manufacturer's light coating of whatever for corrosion resistance that doesn't affect the torque value. Motor oils in the 30 weight range are considered to affect torque by 20% and you should adjust for that and reduce the torque value by 20% if not already corrected.
 

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Static and Dynamic Torque is like astronomy, the more you find out about it the more you realize what you don't know. Not sure if the Jeep Service Manual states dry un-lubed or if they convert to the environment you are torquing in. I would think they should adjust torque values as required like torquing connecting rod bolts should be in an oil environment as should be the oil filter cap. Torque specs are usually dry un-lubed or as received new with the manufacturer's light coating of whatever for corrosion resistance that doesn't affect the torque value. Motor oils in the 30 weight range are considered to affect torque by 20% and you should adjust for that and reduce the torque value by 20% if not already corrected.
You're right. I erred on the side of caution, since I have no idea what the engineers had in mind when it came to torquing the cap. I went under by about 20% @ 14' lbs. last time I changed the oil filter. No leaks, and that is really all that matters. That housing looks like it won't take much to mess it up. I guess if the O-ring makes contact with the housing and there is slight compression, operative word, "slight" I think it would be fine as well. Crushing the O-ring might cause a problem at some point in time.
 

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Static and Dynamic Torque is like astronomy, the more you find out about it the more you realize what you don't know. Not sure if the Jeep Service Manual states dry un-lubed or if they convert to the environment you are torquing in. I would think they should adjust torque values as required like torquing connecting rod bolts should be in an oil environment as should be the oil filter cap. Torque specs are usually dry un-lubed or as received new with the manufacturer's light coating of whatever for corrosion resistance that doesn't affect the torque value. Motor oils in the 30 weight range are considered to affect torque by 20% and you should adjust for that and reduce the torque value by 20% if not already corrected.
Consider per the manual you are suppose to lube the o-ring and then tighten down I think the 18 pounds it probably correct. All I have down since day 1 is tighten it until it stops, basically hand tight. So far no leaks in 13 oil changes.
 

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The torque resistance on the cap is no different oiled or dry as you are measuring the resistance of the "O" ring not the threads and it is easy to tell when the cap bottoms out and that is the time to stop turning. No need to tighten any farther. Since it tightens on a fixed shoulder a painted reference mark is a great idea.
 

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The torque resistance on the cap is no different oiled or dry as you are measuring the resistance of the "O" ring not the threads and it is easy to tell when the cap bottoms out and that is the time to stop turning. No need to tighten any farther. Since it tightens on a fixed shoulder a painted reference mark is a great idea.


Much like on some oil filters it has that picture on the side of 3/4 turn after contact on other vehicle applications?

I tried that and I have a hard time trusting it as it is still only hand tight. I go an extra 1/4 turn to full with a cap wrench.


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Im getting ready to do my first oil change on my 2012 jku i just purchased should i purchase the new bypass valve from rock auto and replace my current one or do i just keep it on hand in case my current one breaks? Thanks
 

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Much like on some oil filters it has that picture on the side of 3/4 turn after contact on other vehicle applications?

I tried that and I have a hard time trusting it as it is still only hand tight. I go an extra 1/4 turn to full with a cap wrench.


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Unlike a conventional spin on filter you are not compressing a gasket, You are pushing an "O" ring into a cylinder machined in the housing. Once the "O" ring is pushed in it will not leak and once the cap has bottomed out if you tried to tighten it another 3/4 turn you would most certainly break it.
Not recommended but you could actually leave it a full turn loose and it will not leak or fall off.
 

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Consider per the manual you are suppose to lube the o-ring and then tighten down I think the 18 pounds it probably correct. All I have down since day 1 is tighten it until it stops, basically hand tight. So far no leaks in 13 oil changes.
What you are doing sounds pretty safe to me being in the hand tight range. I like the index mark I put on the cap and re-align that with another index mark on the housing. Done that since new (2014). It is always nice to be able to go back to where you were and the indexing allows for just that. I don't torque wrench mine either but I do snug up with a ratchet on the 24 mm hex socket. I have used a couple of Fram filters 11655 too and have noticed a slight difference in the gasket thickness and the material between the Fram and the Mopar. Torquing anything can turn out to be dangerous. Honda motorcycle spark plugs with gaskets for example 1/2 turn hand tight new 1/4 turn hand tight used after gaskets have previously been compressed on a cold engine.
 

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Im getting ready to do my first oil change on my 2012 jku i just purchased should i purchase the new bypass valve from rock auto and replace my current one or do i just keep it on hand in case my current one breaks? Thanks
No need to replace it just keep the spare on hand in case it ever does break. Being that it's your first oil change on a 12 make sure that the part is actually still there. And of course just snug the filter cap down, don't over torque it.
 

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I had this issue over 2 years and 30k miles ago and dealer installed part number 68105583AE on my 2012. It has worked great since but must remember it will only use 2014+ oil filters. I believe they are on AF now. Jist a fyi if anyone was curious.
 

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After reading this thread Im glad I traded my 2013jk in on a new 2018JK ..funny how now that they have finely perfected everything about the JK they stop making it.....
 

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After reading this thread Im glad I traded my 2013jk in on a new 2018JK ..funny how now that they have finely perfected everything about the JK they stop making it.....
Don't post here much anymore but got your post in my email and had to respond. They NEVER got everything perfected. Had eight, yes (8) all with different problems and will NEVER consider buying another one unless perhaps they put the 5.7L in one with manual tranny.
 

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Consider per the manual you are suppose to lube the o-ring and then tighten down I think the 18 pounds it probably correct. All I have down since day 1 is tighten it until it stops, basically hand tight. So far no leaks in 13 oil changes.
After cracking the housing in my 2011 Grand Caravan by over tightening, which also has the 3.6 Pentastar, I also tighten only it hand tight now. I havent had any issues at all. I really dont want to have to replace another housing, though other than the expense it was actually very easy. Just a stupid design overall.
 

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has anyone tried using a newer cooler on an older vehicle? I have a 2012 sport and a 2018 recon unlimited. I would love to use just one filter type, and the 2018 housing puts the parts that will break on the cap.

Thanks in advance!
 

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https://youtu.be/h8mEWyw0IZE. Motor City Mechanic talks about that here.



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I looked at this video, and I decided that I’m going to switch. Then I started looking for parts and I wasn’t sure if the part I looked up for a 2018 was for a JK, or JL. After that I started looking at other years and it seems like 14 through 16 have the same part, 17 lists a part, and 18 lists two part numbers

14-16 68105583AF
17 68310865B
18-1 68310865AA
18-2 68308741AB

I’m going to guess that the second oils cooler for 18 is what I want, given it is an older and revised number

Frogy
 

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I looked at this video, and I decided that I’m going to switch. Then I started looking for parts and I wasn’t sure if the part I looked up for a 2018 was for a JK, or JL. After that I started looking at other years and it seems like 14 through 16 have the same part, 17 lists a part, and 18 lists two part numbers

14-16 68105583AF
17 68310865B
18-1 68310865AA
18-2 68308741AB

I’m going to guess that the second oils cooler for 18 is what I want, given it is an older and revised number

Frogy


I was forced to upgrade mine when the coolant line attachment broke and puked out all my coolant an my way down the road.
 
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