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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I recently went to get a smog check for my 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport and I failed the smog check as my OBDII Monitors were "Not Ready." This includes my Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System, Oxygen Sensor and EGR and/or VVT System. The technician said it may have been because I recently took my car to the dealership, or because I need to drive it more.

For context:
1. I called the dealership and they swear they didn't touch the computer or battery while doing my multi-point inspection or addressing a recall.
2. My car hasn't been driven much this year but I drove it every week for about 30 minutes to an hour.
3. I do not have a MIL or engine light turned on.
4. I recently got an oil change.
5. I haven't had any battery issues but intend to go to a local Autozone to get it checked.

So I drove my car for 120 miles then returned today hoping I would pass. Turns out two of my OBDII monitors read that didn't before, but the others are still showing as "Not Ready." I'm getting tired of going back and forth :(

I googled Drive Cycles (Chrysler Drive Cycle - ODB2 Readiness Monitors - A Star Smog - Antioch Smog Check) and will be trying it soon. Does anyone know if I complete drive cycles (for all of the above) do I need to take it to a smog check immediately after? For example, could I do drive cycles the night before then wake up the next day, heat up the car and drive it around a bit then take it to my smog check? Or is that not how it works? I live in Los Angeles and it's much easier to idle and slowly deaccelerate (without using my brakes) on a late-night when the roads are empty versus in the morning before a smog check shop opens. Also, is there any way to check if I don't have an OBDII reader? I think maybe Autozone may offer a free scan?

ANY ADDITIONAL TIPS ON HOW I CAN PASS WOULD BE GREAT! 馃榿 None of my family or friends have heard of drive cycles so I appreciate any help!

THANK YOU!!!!

Mayumi
 

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Welcome to the WF. Tons of great people that are very knowledgeable when it comes to Jeeps and other matters in life.
I believe a drive cycle is any drive more than 15 minutes with an extended shut off in between.
 
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Welcome to the Forum.. I recall a CDJ Tech with a Pa inspection license saying to clear a code years ago it might take up to 50 miles of driving; this was on a '09 or '11 Jeep. Many Forum members will post thoughts.
 
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50 miles should do it for most drive cycles. You normally need a cold start as well. I would recommend driving a hundred miles and see what happens. once it is set, assuming the battery or computer isn't reset, the drive cycle should theoretically stay forever.

I had a problem on my TJ many years ago with not being able to set the drive cycle. The problem turned out to be a bad sensor where it was sending the computer information that it was X temperature. The problem was that sensor and one other sensor had to be within 5掳 of one another for the cold start portion to occur. As a result the computer thought the cold start never happened. It drove me crazy. The sensor wasn't out of range so I didn't get any check engine light.

You should pick up an OBD2 reader or an OBD2 Bluetooth transmitter. Either can be had for very cheap. The Bluetooth one you put an app on your phone and read it. With either, you can see if the drive cycle is complete or which parameter hasn't set yet. Save you the trip to the smog station every time, and they are useful tool.


Good luck

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Welcome to the forum. Your going to need to drive it, a lot. Follow the drive cycle, it may take more than once. Disconnecting the battery clears all the monitors and forces them to start from scratch. Recommend getting a code reader, then you can watch the readiness real time and then take it in. I do think California allows one or two monitor to be in a not ready state. You鈥檒l need to verify.
 

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I had the same issue on my 08 JK. I replaced the check valve on the EVAP container. The connection was corroded, you can get the check valve at any parts store. You do not need the container only the check vale.
 

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We had the same issue with ours. We can鈥檛 start it and drive to the center which is only a few miles away. That doesn鈥檛 give the various systems time to meet the operational needs. For us, it had to be driven for an hour or so on the highway just before the emissions test, then it passed with flying colors. Make sure to leave it running while waiting for the test as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
50 miles should do it for most drive cycles. You normally need a cold start as well. I would recommend driving a hundred miles and see what happens. once it is set, assuming the battery or computer isn't reset, the drive cycle should theoretically stay forever.

I had a problem on my TJ many years ago with not being able to set the drive cycle. The problem turned out to be a bad sensor where it was sending the computer information that it was X temperature. The problem was that sensor and one other sensor had to be within 5掳 of one another for the cold start portion to occur. As a result the computer thought the cold start never happened. It drove me crazy. The sensor wasn't out of range so I didn't get any check engine light.

You should pick up an OBD2 reader or an OBD2 Bluetooth transmitter. Either can be had for very cheap. The Bluetooth one you put an app on your phone and read it. With either, you can see if the drive cycle is complete or which parameter hasn't set yet. Save you the trip to the smog station every time, and they are useful tool.


Good luck

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Thank you! I purchased an OBD2 Wifi scanner. I can't wait to get it tomorrow and try it out! :)

Oh no, sorry you had the sensor issue, what a nightmare!

"Once it is set, assuming the battery or computer isn't reset, the drive cycle should theoretically stay forever." Thank you for clarifying that!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Welcome to the WF. Tons of great people that are very knowledgeable when it comes to Jeeps and other matters in life.
I believe a drive cycle is any drive more than 15 minutes with an extended shut off in between.
Thank you! Looking forward to learning more!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Welcome to the forum. Your going to need to drive it, a lot. Follow the drive cycle, it may take more than once. Disconnecting the battery clears all the monitors and forces them to start from scratch. Recommend getting a code reader, then you can watch the readiness real time and then take it in. I do think California allows one or two monitor to be in a not ready state. You鈥檒l need to verify.
Thank you! Yeah, I'm likely going to take a day trip to Joshua Tree now (a five hour round trip) just to add some miles !

Looks like in California earlier models (before 2000) can pass with one monitor not ready, but anything after those years (including my 2013 jeep wrangler) are required to have all monitors complete or ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We had the same issue with ours. We can鈥檛 start it and drive to the center which is only a few miles away. That doesn鈥檛 give the various systems time to meet the operational needs. For us, it had to be driven for an hour or so on the highway just before the emissions test, then it passed with flying colors. Make sure to leave it running while waiting for the test as well.
Thanks for the tip! :)

I drove it for about 40 minutes on the freeway before my retest yesterday but I think in general I just need to put way more miles on it to set off the monitors. The technician who ran my retest did say some of the monitors set to ready that weren't ready the first time I did my smog check...so I think driving a lot is working! The smog check station I go to is three blocks away - LOL. Probably not a good idea to drive straight to it, I'll be sure to drive around for an hour before heading to my third retest.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Seems to me the easiest thing to do is to move to a state that doesn't do emissions testing. Glad I don't have to deal with that crap.
LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, look at the good things in life as you reflect on 2020. No annoying smog checks for ya! :p

馃槅馃槀馃槀
 

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Tennessee has no smog checks and no stinking state income tax. Great to retire to.
Watch out you don't get labeled Gross Polluter getting out of that is a pain. Glad I moved away from there and no 10 bullet limit here either.
 

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According to what I understand. The EVAP system has a inline valve on the EVAP canister. At normal operating temp the system will close the valve and perform a leak test. If there is a leak it will show a code and if the valve does not close to check the system it will show a code. The most common issue is a leak ( cracked line ) or a bad connection at the valve. My 08 JK had corroded connector on the valve and would not close the valve to perform the emissions test, incomplete/bad test you will get a code. Look at the connection on the valve on the back of the EVAP canister.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you! Yeah, I'm likely going to take a day trip to Joshua Tree now (a five hour round trip) just to add some miles !

Looks like in California earlier models (before 2000) can pass with one monitor not ready, but anything after those years (including my 2013 jeep wrangler) are required to have all monitors complete or ready.

I want to make a correction to this. I learned later that in California the EVAP monitor can be incomplete.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE:

I drove my car an extra 350 miles. Drove it to Joshua Tree and back for a day. I plugged in the wifi OBD2 reader I purchased on amazon and it reported that I have PASSED more monitors except am still showing "NOT READY" for Evaporation System and Oxygen Sensor. That's great news since Evap isn't a required pass in L.A. and I just have ONE MORE to set off before passing my smog check (I am soooo relieved!)

I took my jeep to a different smog technician than my original guy to get a second opinion and double-check that my OBD2 reader was showing me the right readings. The technician confirmed the same results back (evap and oxygen sensor not ready). He also notified me that it looks like the Downstream Bank 2, Sensor 2 (oxygen sensor) needs to be replaced and hopefully after doing that and driving my car more miles (or performing an oxygen sensor drive test) I should be able to PASS that and FINALLY pass my smog check!!!!

He suggested I get an OEM oxygen sensor (not Bosch or some other manufacturer) and then return to him so he can replace it for $30.

I am now struggling to find out which part is the correct one for my jeep make as there are two sensors and I can't differentiate which one is which. I posted a new question about this here: Oxygen Sensor - Which part for downstream sensor 2 bank...

Also any tips on where you'd recommend I buy (which site is trusted?) would be awesome.

Everyone has been super helpful here. I am learning SO MUCH!

Thanks everyone!
Mayu
 

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Discussion Starter #18
According to what I understand. The EVAP system has a inline valve on the EVAP canister. At normal operating temp the system will close the valve and perform a leak test. If there is a leak it will show a code and if the valve does not close to check the system it will show a code. The most common issue is a leak ( cracked line ) or a bad connection at the valve. My 08 JK had corroded connector on the valve and would not close the valve to perform the emissions test, incomplete/bad test you will get a code. Look at the connection on the valve on the back of the EVAP canister.
Thanks for your comment!

I heard something similar from a friend who was trying to pass her smog check and eventually they had to perform a leak test and discovered a leak and had to replace the part. I'm hoping that is not my wrangler, however I did just learn that passing the EVAP was not required in California...so I am so relieved.
 

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Here are the PNs I found for a 2013 JKU 3.6L.: This should be downstream Right and the Upstream Left
5149180AA Sensor, OxygenChrysler List Price: $104.00
This should be the Upstream Right and Downstream Left
5149171AB Sensor, OxygenChrysler List Price: $83.85
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here are the PNs I found for a 2013 JKU 3.6L.: This should be downstream Right and the Upstream Left
5149180AA Sensor, OxygenChrysler List Price: $104.00
This should be the Upstream Right and Downstream Left
5149171AB Sensor, OxygenChrysler List Price: $83.85
Hey Jay!

So if the technician said it was Bank 2 (driver's side = left), Sensor 2 (comes after cat converter/downstream) then looks like our winner is the downstream left oxygen sensor (5149171AB).

This was super helpful! THANK YOU!
Mayu
 
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