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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the doors normally extremely difficult to remove the first time? I got the wiring disconnected, and bolts removed. These puppies just don't want to lift up. I've watched Youtube videos of people just easily lifting them up. I can understand possibly one door being difficult, but all 4 of mine are not cooperating whatsoever. Any tips are greatly appreciated. Tried swinging the door while lifting; the whole Jeep moves. Tried WD40 as well.

:censored:
 

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Yes, they can be a pain. Keep working them open and close while you lift. They will come off eventually. Put a lite coat of grease on the pins before you put them back on.
 

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They can be a bitch, but I wouldn't think a 2013 would be that bad. Usually it's the older Jeeps that haven't had the doors removed in ages. If you have a floor jack, then put a block of wood or something that won't scratch the door and jack it up slowly on the hinge side. If you get some of the pin exposed, hose it down with WD 40 or something to lube it. Once you get them off, grease the pins with some white lithium grease. They should be fine after that.
 

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Are you able to lift around 70 pounds!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all. Will keep trying at it. I don't have a floor jack, but I believe my neighbor does. And yes, lifting is not a problem. I wondered that myself, but since the entire Jeep rocks as I try to manipulate the door. Did find another Youtube video of some guy who rigged a ratchet strap to his garage ceiling and used that to pull the door up. That will be a last resort.
 

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I like the jack approach but have seen others get them off by pulling up while moving the door back and forth.

Can't speak from experience. I was lucky in that mine came off the first time with no issue.
 

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I had to use a strap under my fronts the first time this year on my 2013. With my wife's help it was no problem, you just have got to watch out for when they pull free!
 

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The first time I removed mine this year, the driver door wouldn't budge, even using floor jack. I ended up spraying penetrating fluid straight up into the hinge to break up all the crud and previous years lubricant, then it came off nice and easy. Passenger came off smooth as butter with no issues. So instead of worrying about it in the future, I immediately got online and ordered a set of Delrin hinge bushings from here: Jeep Co-Op - Make sure you order the correct set, they are year range specific. To remove the old bushings, lube 'em really good with a high quality penetrating oil, then using an 8mm or 11/32" deep socket, give 'em a good whack with a hammer. They'll slide right out. To insert the Delrin bushings, clean off the oil/fluid you used very well and GENTLY tap them into the hinge using a soft-faced mallet. If you meet any sort of resistance - STOP and make sure all of the old bushing and foreign material is out of the hinge. No lubrication is required once the delrin bushings are in and they'll last many years.
 

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Thanks all. Will keep trying at it. I don't have a floor jack, but I believe my neighbor does. And yes, lifting is not a problem. I wondered that myself, but since the entire Jeep rocks as I try to manipulate the door. Did find another Youtube video of some guy who rigged a ratchet strap to his garage ceiling and used that to pull the door up. That will be a last resort.
My buddy has a 2012 JKU that he couldn't get the doors off either. Florida truck, never been in salt or at the beach.

Ended up spraying liquid wrench up into the bottom of the hinge pin, and the key is to open the door to a 90 degree angle, then pull up and move door back and forth about 5 degrees.

If you ever get them out, take some sandpaper to the hinge pins, and spray white lithium grease in the hinge holes.

His doors come right off now.
 

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The first time I removed mine this year, the driver door wouldn't budge, even using floor jack. I ended up spraying penetrating fluid straight up into the hinge to break up all the crud and previous years lubricant, then it came off nice and easy. Passenger came off smooth as butter with no issues. So instead of worrying about it in the future, I immediately got online and ordered a set of Delrin hinge bushings from here: Jeep Co-Op - Make sure you order the correct set, they are year range specific. To remove the old bushings, lube 'em really good with a high quality penetrating oil, then using an 8mm or 11/32" deep socket, give 'em a good whack with a hammer. They'll slide right out. To insert the Delrin bushings, clean off the oil/fluid you used very well and GENTLY tap them into the hinge using a soft-faced mallet. If you meet any sort of resistance - STOP and make sure all of the old bushing and foreign material is out of the hinge. No lubrication is required once the delrin bushings are in and they'll last many years.
This worked perfectly. Thanks for the tip. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Couldn't get my hands on a floor jack, so I went the cheap route and got a bottle jack (and a 2x4 for additional support). Still took some doing, but all the doors came off. What I did find once I had them off, was that there was a very thin piece of plastic covering the door pin. Not sure what that was; maybe protective packing material that should have been removed before it was put on the Jeep?
 

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Couldn't get my hands on a floor jack, so I went the cheap route and got a bottle jack (and a 2x4 for additional support). Still took some doing, but all the doors came off. What I did find once I had them off, was that there was a very thin piece of plastic covering the door pin. Not sure what that was; maybe protective packing material that should have been removed before it was put on the Jeep?
Sub thx
 

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I installed delrin liners years ago and I still have difficulty the first time taking them off in the spring. The hinge pins get corroded during the winter making the fit tight and I also believe that the delrin absorbs a little bit of water making them swell onto the pins. I drilled out the delrin liners this spring to loosen up the fit a bit more and also took a bit off the OD of the liners.

For removing the doors when they are stuck on I use a 1/4" 3" long ratchet extension along with a 4lb hammer. Pull the nut on the bottom of the door pins, place the extension on the bottom of the pin and wack away with the hammer. Work the bottom pin, then the top pin. Once the pin starts to get exposed, spray a bit of penetrating fluid in there. It will be slow but they will come loose. Works greatb and no damage. Just be careful with the 4lb hammer next to your sheet metal.

I came up with this method because I knew if I tried the jacking method I'd bend the bottom of the door being the lucky guy that I am.

Wow, just realized I responded to a 7 year old thread bump!
 
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