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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right after I did it, I knew it was a terrible mistake.

Driving down the road my Jeep was making a whirring/humming noise coming from what seemed like the rear when I let off the gas. Got to my destination and parked, nothing too bad, nothing leaking. After getting on the road again and making a tight u-turn I heard a couple more noises and the original sound got a little worse.

Pulled over, got out and checked the rear end - leaking big time. Being dark out couldn't see where it was coming from. I went home quick as I could from there. By the time that I got to the light by my house I smelled a little burning.

Went outr this morning and upon visual inspection I see what looks like a hole in my differential cover at the bottom, looks like it came from inside to out. About the size of a BB, maybe a little larger. I am already pricing out new covers and gaskets. Anything else I should be ready for?

Couldn't have come at a worse time, this is my daily driver. No extra cash laying around so please keep the "time to upgrade" comments to a minimum.

1995 YJ, 2.5L, manual trans, 160k miles, 10k on clutch. Stock except for 31s.

Thanks for any input.
 

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You broke something in the diff. It's a lot worse than cover and gasket.

Could be spiders or locker if you have one.
It could be ring or pinion broke a tooth.

None of it is good.
Sorry
 

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I just saw you're broke and its your DD.

There isn't a temp fix to get by. If you try to replace the cover and keep driving the rear gearset could come completely apart locking up and causing you a serious accident.

Sorry again.
 

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Take off the diff cover and post pics of the pinion gear, and spider gears. Inspect all the teeth and see what made the hole. But like was stated before Sorry but this most likely won't be a cheap/easy fix but hey let's try!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, got pics.

First, after pulling the cover, here is the damaged that I noticed the other day:




Then, after fishing my hand around the inside of the differential, found these:


Which I assume belong here:






So yesterday I picked up a spare rear end from a fellow YJ guy. Has the same gearing and everything. Would I be okay just swapping the broken pieces out of that one?

Looks like its just the gears in the center? (spider gears?) I would replace everything in the center area there.

Advice much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I can avoid it, Id rather not swap it, the internals are less broken on the new one, but everything else is a little rougher.
 

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All your doing is prolonging the inevitable. The D35 is trash. Looks like your original axle is starting to flex, damaging the spider gears. This is very common. You would benefit from swapping the whole axle unless the axle you got from the other YJ is doing the same thing(i would look). But I would save some money and do the most popular Ford 8.8 swap.
 

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This is my D35 and spent money on it thinkin just the spider gears were worn and going bad. So i went and installed an ARB locker. Needless to say $1500 later in parts and labor, this it what happened only 100 miles later. Just finished my 8.8 swap.
 

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OK, here is what I would do if I was you.

CLEAN OUT ALL THE OIL, get every thing, use tons of brake clean and make SURE there are NO metal chunks of any size.

Find a mobile welder and WELD UP those spider gears (Basically a Lincoln Locker). your gears and carrier should look like the attached pic after welding.

New cover, fresh gear oil, and test drive it.

If there is no noise, you are ok, but if your spiders came apart, remember they are the weakest link, something else is GOING to break.

This is also the time to start saving for that 8.8 that everyone is doing, they are doing ti for a reason, and your issue is that exact reason.

Also, make sure there is NO damage to the ring and pinion, you did not post any pics of them, but before just welding the spider gears, make sure they are undamaged.
 

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DO NOT weld the spider gears! Your axle shafts will not like you if you do that and they will let you know.

You can just swap out the spider gears. Do not try to just change out the carrier even though both rear ends have the same gear ratio.

Hopefully your R&P and bearings are okay. You may just be better off swapping in the other rear end. Then keep your damaged rear for spare parts. You may be able to pick up some used spider gears for cheap as well.
 

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I would just swap in used spiders. Clean it out really good put "just" the spiders in. Don't drop the carrier out. I have a set of used spiders I will give you if you pay for shipping. I might even have a stock cover but if not I have an aftermarket one for $50 + shipping and its yours.
 

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---snip <Couldn't have come at a worse time, this is my daily driver. No extra cash laying around >----snip
This is the only reason I brought up welding, he can afford (or insinuates he can) to upgrade later.

Last time I priced a spider gear set it was about $150, add a diff cover and gear oil, Sealer, hes around 200 vs a 30$ weld and a cover and gasket, hell they might even be able to weld up the hole in the cover!
 

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If your broke just swap in the other spider gears. Google how to set the gears, there should be plenty of info on how to do it. Then just putt around in it and don't give it hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Going to try and switch out the whole rear end. Not sure what to do about the brakelines and such. But I guess I will figure that out as i go. Only thing really confusing about brakes are the little pressure box thingy.
 

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The brake cylinder? I haven't replaced one on a Jeep in a long time, but the bolts to remove them are usually on the backside of the brake backing plate. Unscrew the brake line from it and then remove it's bolts. Use the proper size wrenches on your brake line fittings so you don't strip them out. I think the last ones I bought were for a Ford and about $12 each. It should be an easy swap just make sure to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not the cylinder, there is a square box mounted to the axle housing where the brake line comes in and splits off for left and right. Don't think it unbolts ans the line looks like it crimps on. I will have to play with it.
 

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That square box is the end of the flexible line from the frame to the rear axle. One bolt holds it in place and the two lines to the rear wheels are connected. The other end of the hose is minted drivers side frame and has a clip that holds it in place.
 

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Joker chief is right on you can get replacement hose with mounted tbox from summit racing or just about any 4x4 store on line or in person just remember if you have 2 or 3 inches of lift or more you need longer than standard.

It is called the flexible brake line or hose

Chief
 

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Not the cylinder, there is a square box mounted to the axle housing where the brake line comes in and splits off for left and right. Don't think it unbolts ans the line looks like it crimps on. I will have to play with it.
That just a t block. If your new axle doesn't have the block and hard lines just swap over from the old axle. Bleed the brakes at all four wheels when your done and your good to go.

The line thread Into the block on all threes sides. There should be a bolt or clamp holding it to the axle. It all comes off with wrenches for sure
 
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