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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I installed the currie hd drag link and I've been getting a little bump steer and lots of play in the steering wheel. Always had bump steer since the lift but not as much when I installed the Currie

 

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Where's the steering dampener? Looks like all Currie stuff so as long as you don't have a drop on your frameside trackbar, the angles should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where's the steering dampener? Looks like all Currie stuff so as long as you don't have a drop on your frameside trackbar, the angles should be good to go.
It has a re adjustable track bar with a 7.5 long arm kit and no steering damper it riped off the mounting bracket got t ok weld a new one.
 

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Putting a steering stabilizer on it will just mask the problem and won't solve it. Your track bar and draglink don't look to be properly lined up right. I'm no expert on it but I know they are suppose to be parallel to each other or somewhat even with each other.
 

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Putting a steering stabilizer on it will just mask the problem and won't solve it. Your track bar and draglink don't look to be properly lined up right. I'm no expert on it but I know they are suppose to be parallel to each other or somewhat even with each other.
x2 on this. Also, is that the stock pitman arm?
 

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x2 on this. Also, is that the stock pitman arm?
That's the other thing I saw but forgot to mention. That pitman arm doesn't look stock and looks like a DPA. It also looks like you are not running a stock track bar mount setup. Is it a double shear mount?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's the other thing I saw but forgot to mention. That pitman arm doesn't look stock and looks like a DPA. It also looks like you are not running a stock track bar mount setup. Is it a double shear mount?
It has a double shear mount. You think a bigger drop for the pitman is required or a stock one? Or something with the track bar?
I'll get better pics later on.
 

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The Currie steering kit did not add to or change any characteristic that has anything to do with bump steer. Currie's steering kit uses the exact same geometry the factory steering system does so your bump steer has nothing to do with the new Currie system.

What IS causing your bump steer is your steeply dropped Pitman arm. I don't see a dropped driver's side mounting bracket for the track bar which is the only thing that could make the use of the dropped Pitman arm correct.

If your driver's side track bar mount is stock & undropped, replace that dropped Pitman arm with your original Pitman arm and your bump steer will be cured.

Install a steering stabilizer too. A steering stabilizer (more correctly known as a damper) helps to protect the steering & front end from the normal shocks & jolts of driving like when you run over a bump or a dip on the road surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Currie steering kit did not add to or change any characteristic that has anything to do with bump steer. Currie's steering kit uses the exact same geometry the factory steering system does so your bump steer has nothing to do with the new Currie system.

What IS causing your bump steer is your steeply dropped Pitman arm. I don't see a dropped driver's side mounting bracket for the track bar which is the only thing that could make the use of the dropped Pitman arm correct.

If your driver's side track bar mount is stock & undropped, replace that dropped Pitman arm with your original Pitman arm and your bump steer will be cured.

Install a steering stabilizer too. A steering stabilizer (more correctly known as a damper) helps to protect the steering & front end from the normal shocks & jolts of driving like when you run over a bump or a dip on the road surface.

I think it does have a drop bracket but I know its a double shear. I was thinking about changing the pitman arm to stock but the jeeps so high.
Ill get better pics in a little.
 

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Suspension height has nothing to do with whether you need a dropped Pitman arm, it's only the steering geometry that dictates the need for it. My previous TJ had a Rubicon Express suspension lift with a lift that was right at 5.5" and it steered best without a dropped Pitman arm after I removed its dropped Pitman arm. And whether the driver's side track bar mount is single or double-shear has nothing to do with it either, the only thing that matters is if it is factory height or dropped.

To prevent bump steer, the track bar & Pitman arm must match... both must be either undropped, or dropped the same amount.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Suspension height has nothing to do with whether you need a dropped Pitman arm, it's only the steering geometry that dictates the need for it. My previous TJ had a Rubicon Express suspension lift with a lift that was right at 5.5" and it steered best without a dropped Pitman arm after I removed its dropped Pitman arm. And whether the driver's side track bar mount is single or double-shear has nothing to do with it either, the only thing that matters is if it is factory height or dropped.

To prevent bump steer, the track bar & Pitman arm must match... both must be either undropped, or dropped the same amount.
Thanks I'm understanding now, I'm new to this stuff eager to learn tho. I'm not 100% sure if it has a drop bracket but i'm gonna take better pics for you to see if it is.
 

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If you are unsure if they are parallel then measure . Park it on a flat surface like a garage floor and on the passenger side measure from floor the center of the bolt attaching the track bar . Do the same to the TRE on the same side . Measure to approx. part where the ball ( or call it the pivot point ) is located inside the TRE not the mount or the stud . When you switched to Currie steering the TRE pivot point became slightly lower as mine did being Currie has a larger ball than the OE TRE . Measure the draglink end at the pitman arm the same way from the pivot point of the drag link end to the floor and then the center of the bolt attaching your track bar to the floor. With all of the numbers you can now tell what you have presently and figure out what is needed in order to make the two components parallel as possible . If it is perfect you should have matching pairs of measurements. I had to bend my pitman arm lower to get it as close as possible . 11/16" made all the difference in the world on mine . I had no drop components installed and still ended up with bumpsteer initially, not any more.
 

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Here's a good illustration of the two imaginary lines that need to be parallel. One line (red) between the two mounting points of the track bar, and the other line (yellow) between the two mounting points of the drag link.

Those lines are between the mounting points of the track bar and drag link, pay no attention to the angles of the track bar or drag link themselves... the track bar has bends in it that make it impossible to know its operating plane.
 

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Here's a good illustration of the two imaginary lines that need to be parallel. One line (red) between the two mounting points of the track bar, and the other line (yellow) between the two mounting points of the drag link.

Those lines are between the mounting points of the track bar and drag link, pay no attention to the angles of the track bar or drag link themselves... the track bar has bends in it that make it impossible to know its operating plane.
The mounting points are not an accurate place to check for parallel . Go by the center of the actual point where the actual component pivots . It does make a difference
 

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Glad you do . The important part is the OP understands that too. I personally would not be looking at the exact same location if some one said " the mounting point ". Which is why I refered to it as the actual pivot point so their is no mistake in case they happen to think of a mounting point as I do
 
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