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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I just acquired a 2011 JK 2 Door Manual. I've tried to document as much of the modifications that have been made as possible. I will do some light off-roading in CA fire roads, but nothing major. I've read a lot on here about how 37s can wreck your axles, drive shaft, and other parts if you don't do the proper upgrades. The Jeep drives fine and no wheel jerk on bumps or death wobble at all. The steering is a bit floaty but nothing bad. My biggest worry is at slow speeds the car feels shaky when coming to a stop? I've had an FJ Cruiser that felt scary/struggled braking and this isn't that. I actually feel under control to stop. The car just rattles even at 2-3 mph. When I test drove it I thought I killed the motor with the clutch - it is that sort of shake like stopping in 4th gear. The owner said it is just the mud-terrain tires. What do you think? I ultimately just want a safe car and know I am not tearing anything up the most cost effective way.

Please let me know what you think I need to do. Any help is much appreciated!

Upgrades:
Wheels: mb wheels off road 17”
Tires: desert hawk Achilles MT 37x12.5R17
Brakes: Possibly OEM?
Shocks: Fox 2.0 front; rough country 2.5 rear
Springs & Control Arms: 2.5in lift. Not sure of make - same color gray so I think this was a set.
Draglink:OEM? I tried to provide a picture as the connection to Pitman Arm worries me a little.
Tie Rod: adjustable - not sure of much else.
Pitman Arm: Possibly OEM?
C-Gusset: Do not see any
Sway Bars: OEM?
Sway Bar Disconnect - These are not OEM I believe.
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: Dana 44
Front Track Bar: JKS Adjustable Trackbar
Bilstein: B8 5100 steering damper 24-158428
Brake line extension i think

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I would suggest backing down to a 35” tire. And probably not a mud terrain tire. An all terrain tire would probably work better for you.
What is up with the red balls inside your front springs? Is that supposed to be instead of bumpstop extensions?
I would measure your suspension height to see how much lift you have. There is a sticky thread on here about how to do that. It sounds like you have a bitsa lift. You may want to replace it with a properly engineered kit made to work together.

What gears do you have?

What do you have for caster correction?
 

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I definitely would get rid of the 37s. You don’t need them for what you use the Jeep for, and running 37s brings a host of expensive modifications and increased wear and tear. I’d suggest something like a 285/75R17 instead.
 

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2010 JK
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Go for a 35" all terrain in load range C! you'll notice an increase in comfort and drivability.
And yes, FJ brakes suck! FJ brakes on OE size tires feel like my JK does on 33.5s with heavy steel wheels.
 

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Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I definitely would get rid of the 37s. You don’t need them for what you use the Jeep for, and running 37s brings a host of expensive modifications and increased wear and tear. I’d suggest something like a 285/75R17 instead.
Yeah that was originally my thought, but that’s like a 1500 purchase. These tires are brand new and it’s going to be a total hassle to try and recoup money on Craigslist or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Go for a 35" all terrain in load range C! you'll notice an increase in comfort and drivability.
And yes, FJ brakes suck! FJ brakes on OE size tires feel like my JK does on 33.5s with heavy steel wheels.
Do you think going to 35s will require a lot of work modifying the suspension?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would suggest backing down to a 35” tire. And probably not a mud terrain tire. An all terrain tire would probably work better for you.
What is up with the red balls inside your front springs? Is that supposed to be instead of bumpstop extensions?
I would measure your suspension height to see how much lift you have. There is a sticky thread on here about how to do that. It sounds like you have a bitsa lift. You may want to replace it with a properly engineered kit made to work together.

What gears do you have?

What do you have for caster correction?
Yeah I def would prefer AT 35s. I’m just not sure it’s more cost effective to buy $1500 tires vs some preventive measures. But you all are the experts! I got a great deal so I decided to go ahead and buy it with the MTs. The car was in the previous owner family for a decade and his brother-in-law had it before him. The carfax confirms the story. Apparently he didn’t keep records of all the changes so I didn’t get a ton of info. The stuff above is from me crawling under the car.

I was told 2.5in lift and the rear is geared to 4.88. The car doesn’t feel sluggish on the hwy or street so I do think it’s been regeared. I’ll check the forum to confirm the suspension height. Not sure on the red ball or caster correction.
 

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Do you suggest just to use Craigslist?
Welcome from Arizona.

I use CL and have sold thousands of dollars of Jeep parts there. Some people use Fakebook which I don’t use.
 
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Do you think going to 35s will require a lot of work modifying the suspension?
Not if the lift and everything else were done properly in the first place.
 
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