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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the last couple of weeks my Jeep started making a light tapping sound then a couple of days ago my Check Engine light came on. I hooked up my scan tool and it coded P0520 (Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit). I’m assuming it needs the sensor replaced. I took it to a local mechanic to have a diagnostic ran on it because Jeep could not get to it for 2 weeks. This is the diagnosis, “Check Engine Light Has Codes For Oil Pressure Sensor and Speed Control”. Then he said the mechanic said ”The Tapping Noise Is From Valvetrain In Bank One which he said is the driver’s side”. That was not a code but just the comments from the mechanic. He said to replace the speed control and the oil pressure sensor which they would do the cooler as well would be a little over $1100. He said I would have to go to the dealer to have the valvetrain checked because he does not do that detailed kind of work. I wonder if the mechanic just didn’t want to do it or if there really is a problem with the valvetrain Since it didn’t code. I looked into trading but geez the prices are really high. So I’ve decided to replace the oil pressure sensor myself to see if that fixes it and hold off buying one for a while. I called the dealer to price the sensor and the cooler and it’s $424. Is it necessary to replace the cooler as well like the mechanic stated? Because the sensor is only about $50. Would the oil pressure sensor cause it to be tapping? I have always took really good care of my Jeep and the dealer has always done the oil changes, brakes and other maintenance type work on it. I was going to get a second opinion on the diagnostic but Jeep wants $205 to do it. So I thought I would do the sensor first and then go from there.
 

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I don’t think there’s any way around pulling the intake manifold. A brief look at YouTube and all of them show removal of the upper and lower intake. As for your valve train noise do a search for the “Pentastar tick”.
 

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The tick is almost definitely a bad rocker. I had to replace mine at 96k Miles. Mine was on the passenger side and I went ahead and replaced all 24 rockers and lifters. Don’t wait long to repair. The longer you run it like that the more risk you have of damaging the cam which is a much more expensive part to buy. This is a very common issue with this engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The tick is almost definitely a bad rocker. I had to replace mine at 96k Miles. Mine was on the passenger side and I went ahead and replaced all 24 rockers and lifters. Don’t wait long to repair. The longer you run it like that the more risk you have of damaging the cam which is a much more expensive part to buy. This is a very common issue with this engine.
Thank you. This started about 3 weeks ago maybe 4 weeks. My cousin and I going to replace the pressure sensor and probably the temp sensor too since I will be replacing the oil filter housing which is the cooler next weekend. When I had the diagnostic ran on it the mechanic said it was on bank one, the drivers side so I am going to try to find the one that’s bad and replace it. I really don’t want to put a lot of money into it because I am ready to get a new one. I want to buy a new Willy. Just want to fix what is bad right now and beside the oil filter housing alone is $424 at the dealer and $350 at the local auto parts store. Then I will need gaskets and the 2 sensors as well as however many rockers are bad. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The tick is almost definitely a bad rocker. I had to replace mine at 96k Miles. Mine was on the passenger side and I went ahead and replaced all 24 rockers and lifters. Don’t wait long to repair. The longer you run it like that the more risk you have of damaging the cam which is a much more expensive part to buy. This is a very common issue with this engine.
Thank you, mine has 86,000 miles.
 

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Thank you, mine has 86,000 miles.
Buy the $30 cam lock tool on Amazon and I’ll put money it’s one of the closest to the firewall. Rockers are 8.49 at the parts store in va. You can buy a whole kit on Amazon for a couple hundred dollars that includes the seals. I didn’t go that route but wish I did because I would have saved some. Getting the manifold off is one of the tougher parts. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have any of you bought the oil filter housing/cooler from Amazon? Just curious about the quality of buying one from them. The prices are so much better. It’s going to cost me close to $500 to buy this and the gaskets at a local parts store and more if I get it from dealer. But I can get all of it from Amazon for less than $150. I just don’t want to buy it and then have to do it again because it was cheap and didn’t last.
 

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Rockauto is normally where I buy most of my stuff because they are normally the cheapest. I bought mopar when I replaced mine a couple years back. I think the part ended in c so it has been upgraded a couple times and hopefully improved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Rockauto is normally where I buy most of my stuff because they are normally the cheapest. I bought mopar when I replaced mine a couple years back. I think the part ended in c so it has been upgraded a couple times and hopefully improved.
Thanks, I am planning on trading it in soon so hoping not to be out a lot on it but at the same time don’t want it to leak or have issues. I know Mopar is best but it’s such a huge difference in price and the ones on Amazon come with the gaskets too. Plan to trade within the next 30-60 days.
 

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The sub $150 all inclusive units from Amazon are knock off's and of questionable quality. Sometimes you can get the genuine Dorman with everything except the sensors for about $220. I ended up buying from Advance Auto, Carparts.com and Rock Auto for the cooler/filter/housing sensors and cap. Locally I needed M6-1.0 bolts as I have a 2012 so I couldn't reuse the cooler bolts.

If you are not keeping it, buy the knockoff unit. from Amazon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The sub $150 all inclusive units from Amazon are knock off's and of questionable quality. Sometimes you can get the genuine Dorman with everything except the sensors for about $220. I ended up buying from Advance Auto, Carparts.com and Rock Auto for the cooler/filter/housing sensors and cap. Locally I needed M6-1.0 bolts as I have a 2012 so I couldn't reuse the cooler bolts.

If you are not keeping it, buy the knockoff unit. from Amazon.
Rock Auto has 2 one is Mopar for $282.79 and another one Ultra Power for $126.99. I’m thinking since I will trading soon I may take my chance with the Ultra Power one.
 
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