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Discussion Starter #1
Removed 2 Spark plugs to look at their condition since ive had the jeep for over a year 15+k miles. Warmed up the engine and removed both front driver and passenger plugs easily. Driver reinserted with some wiggling but fairly easy Passenger only goes in 1/2 way with ratchet and another 1/4 with force .. I dont want to force it in any more. I plugged the cable back up and turned it on for about 5 minutes without any misfires. What should I do to put it back properly? Driver image-2089216384.jpg Passenger image-2605508538.jpg


image-749369201.jpg
 

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You may have jacked up the threads already. I to make sure I don't crossthread the plugs usually put a short length of fuel line on the top. So you can feel that it's going in correctly, also it's not a great idea to put the spark plugs back in when the engine is warm, especially if you have aluminum heads (I'm not sure if you do or not)
Also did you replace those plugs? The look pretty worn out to me. Especially the one in the middle. I would try to put one in by hand and see if it's cross threading.
 

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Try cleaning the threads with wire brush and maybe a drop of oil. But best bet is zip down and buy 6 new plugs and or hitting your dealers service department as it def under warranty still
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I threaded in by hand until possible then with ratchet.. I didnt replace because i didnt have the plug available.. Should. I change the cables while im at it or not?
 

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Your plugs and wires are good until 100,000 miles (per owners manual), why would you want to remove them in the first place ? You will probably need a thread repair/re threader kit, they are fairly cheap but take your time to make sure that it's seated square before you start threading it in.

http://www.timesert.com/html/howtosp.html

With the aluminum heads you should always wait until it's cold then when re installing the plugs use a little copper anti seize compound on them.
 

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Like Sixpack said, you should apply anti seize before installing plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your plugs and wires are good until 100,000 miles (per owners manual), why would you want to remove them in the first place ? You will probably need a thread repair/re threader kit, they are fairly cheap but take your time to make sure that it's seated square before you start threading it in. http://www.timesert.com/html/howtosp.html With the aluminum heads you should always wait until it's cold then when re installing the plugs use a little copper anti seize compound on them.
The reason i took them out was because although jeeps arent known for their gas mileage i dont expect 11.5-13 mpg to be decent enough and at about 87k miles i suspected this to be the first step
 

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From what i've read champion the oem plugs manuf. recommends against any anti seize since they are built with some anti-seize/corrosive film
True. New plugs are coated. But I think the primary reason that some recommend against using anti seize is that some people will over torque the plugs because the anti seize reduces the friction. You have to be careful not to over torque the plugs
 

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Seem like some spark plug manufacturer have a different point of view....:tomatoes:
I hadn't heard about that, I guess I'll have to look at the what the plug manufacturer calls for. The factory torque specs call for 13 ft/lbs or 156 in/lbs when reinstalling, if you're using anti seize then it might be a good idea to set your torque wrench slightly lower.
 

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And by the way, what is the little curve on the second spark plug picture (don't know if is cathode or anode but the most outside part of it?). Upgrade spark plug or optical illusion? And the insulator, chip or again funny type of plugs?
 

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It's an aluminum head I'm not sure what the anti seize is gaining unless the head has steel thread inserts. I've never used antisieze and I have a 47 year old aluminum head engine and have never had s problem getting the plugs out. I did strip the threads trying to put them in once while the engine was warm. So I wouldn't end up with shavings in the engine I pulled it out and pulled the head to put in the heli coil.
 

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I think the goal was to prevent galvanic corrosion(two dissimilar metal reacting each other) But, as spark plug manufacturers wrote, people tend to overtorque when using anti-seize(and with probably the only torque wrench they got so maybe at the limit of the chart).
 

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I think the goal was to prevent galvanic corrosion(two dissimilar metal reacting each other)...
This.

Because one has never used anti-seize paste and never had a problem means only that one is extremely lucky in a single example, not that all automotive engineers are wrong.
 

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I think the goal was to prevent galvanic corrosion(two dissimilar metal reacting each other) But, as spark plug manufacturers wrote, people tend to overtorque when using anti-seize(and with probably the only torque wrench they got so maybe at the limit of the chart).
How is a metal-based antisieze compound going to prevent galvanic corrosion? Besides, doesnt the negative/grounded side (threads) of the spark plug have to make an electrical connection to the head in order for the spark to jump to ground, and thus ignite the fuel/air mixture?
 

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Buggered up spark plug hole threading happens often.
Spark plug thread chasers are very common & available in most auto parts stores (NAPA). Buy one, the proper size of course.

'Chase' the offending plug hole, blow a little compressed air in that cylinder afterward to remove any 'debris'/or rig up a vacuum & piece of vacuum hose that'll fit down the plug hole, install new plug (no anti-seize, a little motor oil on the plug threads is o/k tho), you should be fine..

Hope this helps you out..
 
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