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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2011 JKU three weeks ago. Shortly after I got it I noticed the passenger side floorboard was wet. It has been raining quite a bit lately so I thought it getting in somehow. I let it dry with the door open and the mat out. We'll it rained again and it was wet again. My neighbor works on cars and he said it might be the heater core leaking. I called the dealer and took it in Thursday. They replaced some seals on the door and said it was good. It hasn't rained in a few days and the floor was wet today. Any thoughts on what might be going on? I'm going to call and take it in.
 

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pretty easy to tell if its coolant or water....coolant is slippery and has a bitter taste, water is not slipperly like oil/coolant and no taste...it also has a distinct smell. have you been using the a/c and the condestion be leaking in possibly from a clogged a/c drain tube? taste/smell/fell are the best way to tell coolant if you are unsure, if you cant tell if its slippery or smell it, a tiny touch to the floor board and dab to tongue and you know immediately...then wiper your tongue off and swish some water
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't bee running the AC any. It doesn't seem to be slippery or any smell. Where can I find the drain? I'll check that out.
 

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the drain should be on the engine side of the firewall..it would be a little black tube that sticks out, honestly not sure of its exact location, they are usually on the passenger side of the firewall at the back of the engine, best way to unclog them is to stick a coat hanger or something to unclog it...if you haven't used the a/c its likely not that...sounds like a water leak to me....if you want to check your own water leak to avoid paying some one to find it for you with specialized water leak detection equpitment (a garden hose) you could use your own garden hose and a helper to run high volume low pressure water over the area while you sit inside and wait for the leak to show.... i notice you said the dealer replaced the door seals already but it sounds like something still leaking, or the water wasn't fully dried out and is still coming up to the surface....sometimes the surface feels dry but underneath is still wet and putting the floor mat back in with it still being wet and it will get damp again under it.a garden hose will tell you if you still have a leak....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I tried the garden hose thing but I was by myself. I'll try again with my wife and I'll get inside to look and listen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Found the leak with my wife's help. It's running off the roof down the front edge of the door and in.
 

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I just bought a 2011 JKU three weeks ago. Shortly after I got it I noticed the passenger side floorboard was wet. It has been raining quite a bit lately so I thought it getting in somehow. I let it dry with the door open and the mat out. We'll it rained again and it was wet again. My neighbor works on cars and he said it might be the heater core leaking. I called the dealer and took it in Thursday. They replaced some seals on the door and said it was good. It hasn't rained in a few days and the floor was wet today. Any thoughts on what might be going on? I'm going to call and take it in.
It appears to be an issei that Chrysler can't repair. I have the same issue with my 2012 Sarah Unlimited, hard top. I have been dealing with this for over a year now. They replaced the rubber around the doors twice, and the next solution is to try new hard top panels. This is great but now I have a bigger issue...the dealership drilled holes into the front driver and passenger side floor. WHO DOES THAT???

 

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It appears to be an issei that Chrysler can't repair. I have the same issue with my 2012 Sarah Unlimited, hard top. I have been dealing with this for over a year now. They replaced the rubber around the doors twice, and the next solution is to try new hard top panels. This is great but now I have a bigger issue...the dealership drilled holes into the front driver and passenger side floor. WHO DOES THAT???

I would be absolutely furious. thats bare sheet metal that is exposed to the outside of the vehicle in a "high traffic" area, you may not own it in 15 years but I would put money on those holes being a tad bigger way on down the road.
 

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I have a 2011 JKU, and had the exact problem you are having, water under the floor mat on the passenger side. Here is what I have found the problem to be. First, the catalytic converter on that side is a bit closer to the floor pan than the driver side. Second, there is no heat shield on the passenger side. The drivers side has a heat shield. Third, the catalytic converter was heating up the floor pan to the point that the air was condensing under the rubber side of floor mat, causing the carpet to be wet there. The water was always warm to the touch, and it was due to the heat caused by the catalytic converter.

My solution was very simple. I purchased some flexible heat shield material off of Ebay. It has the adhesive on one side, and it's high temp. I cut it to fit the section of the floor pan lacking the heat shield. Cleaned of the metal, and installed the heat shield material on the bottom of the floor pan. And, viola, no more hot floor and no more water under the floor mat on the carpet. Problem solved with just a bit of inexpensive heat shield material.
 

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I have a 2011 JKU, and had the exact problem you are having, water under the floor mat on the passenger side. Here is what I have found the problem to be. First, the catalytic converter on that side is a bit closer to the floor pan than the driver side. Second, there is no heat shield on the passenger side. The drivers side has a heat shield. Third, the catalytic converter was heating up the floor pan to the point that the air was condensing under the rubber side of floor mat, causing the carpet to be wet there. The water was always warm to the touch, and it was due to the heat caused by the catalytic converter. My solution was very simple. I purchased some flexible heat shield material off of Ebay. It has the adhesive on one side, and it's high temp. I cut it to fit the section of the floor pan lacking the heat shield. Cleaned of the metal, and installed the heat shield material on the bottom of the floor pan. And, viola, no more hot floor and no more water under the floor mat on the carpet. Problem solved with just a bit of inexpensive heat shield material.
I'm glad this solved your problem, but I don't think it's for the reason you think it did. Heat from a catalytic converter would cause moisture to evaporate, not condense. I would guess that there was a hole in the floor board, your ability to see it possibly blocked by the catalytic converter, that you sealed or covered by installing the adhesive backed heat shield.

Regardless of why it worked though, your floor is dry and that's what matters.
 

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Eagle JK, make sure you pull out the carpet when you dry the floor. I have found that the carpet is notorious for hiding water. The carpet backing seems to be water resistant, but not water proof. It allows water to pool both on it and under it. You can dry the top of the carpet, but if there is water pooled under it, it will slowly seep back up through the carpet.
 

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I'm glad this solved your problem, but I don't think it's for the reason you think it did. Heat from a catalytic converter would cause moisture to evaporate, not condense. I would guess that there was a hole in the floor board, your ability to see it possibly blocked by the catalytic converter, that you sealed or covered by installing the adhesive backed heat shield.

Regardless of why it worked though, your floor is dry and that's what matters.
Well, what the heat did was cause a warm spot on the floor under the floor mat. That warm spot, against the plastic bottom of the floor mat, does indeed cause condensation to collect under the mat when you run the AC and it's cool inside the cab. It's very similar to the condensation you might see inside a zip lock baggie that has your sandwich, and you pull it out of your cooler and it's exposed to the hot sun. Condensation collects inside the bag and gets your bread wet. It's the same principal. I'm well aware of the plug holes in the floor board, and the underside of the jeep. Nothing is hidden from view. I tested my theory several times in my jeep, drying the moisture each time. Installation of the heat shield on the bottom of the floor pan, in the area near the catalytic converter, illiminated the hot spot on the floor. And, it illiminated the condensation problem in that area for me. No hot spot on the floor, no catalyst for condensation under the plastic floor mat. It worked very well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had it back in yesterday and they said he couldn't find the leak. Some "leak specialist". I found it.
 

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My Freedom Panel on the passenger side has a sweet spot for the screw in mount. Too tight and the panel leaks on the front of the passenger door over the window, too loose and it leaks from the middle channel where the panels overlap. If I get it just right, no leaks. I chased the issue for a while as well. I'm ditching my hard top soon and going to a soft top year round. I never had my soft top leak. Hard tops are dumb...
 
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