Help with what to do with this lift I inherited

1052 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Jester1492, Apr 4, 2022

Hilbs

Discussion Starter · Apr 2, 2022

Alright guys. Mostly dumb questions here but I’m totally new to Jeeps although I’m starting to figure things out forcibly lol. recently bought a JKU with what looks like a 4” cheapo lift. From what I’ve gathered, it only has coils, bump stop extensions, adjustable front track bar and what looks like a rear TB bracket? I want to do this properly both for ride quality and some off road. if anyone could help with what my next steps should be and also what’s really not necessary right now. Currently my Amazon cart has Bilstein shocks and a geometry correction bracket. Also should I buy a DL flip kit or is the track bar and DL parallel enough? Any advice is much appreciated

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GuzziMoto

· #2 · Apr 3, 2022

Hilbs said:
Alright guys. Mostly dumb questions here but I’m totally new to Jeeps although I’m starting to figure things out forcibly lol. recently bought a JKU with what looks like a 4” cheapo lift. From what I’ve gathered, it only has coils, bump stop extensions, adjustable front track bar and what looks like a rear TB bracket? I want to do this properly both for ride quality and some off road. if anyone could help with what my next steps should be and also what’s really not necessary right now. Currently my Amazon cart has Bilstein shocks and a geometry correction bracket. Also should I buy a DL flip kit or is the track bar and DL parallel enough? Any advice is much appreciated

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Unless you really want that much lift I would suggest you buy a quality matched set of 2.5” springs and shocks to start with. Just buying shocks is kinda playing roulette, no idea if the new shocks will pair up well with the existing springs. If you want the height, go with a set of 3.5” springs and shocks. Good options for that include MetalCloak and AEV.
The springs and shocks really need to pair well for best results.
You also need to figure out what you have for caster correction. Popular options include geometry brackets or longer/adjustable lower front control arms.
Also, that rear trackbar bracket is not very good and you may want to upgrade it to a stronger version. That type is something of a weak link.

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Hilbs

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 3, 2022

GuzziMoto said:
Unless you really want that much lift I would suggest you buy a quality matched set of 2.5” springs and shocks to start with. Just buying shocks is kinda playing roulette, no idea if the new shocks will pair up well with the existing springs. If you want the height, go with a set of 3.5” springs and shocks. Good options for that include MetalCloak and AEV.
The springs and shocks really need to pair well for best results.
You also need to figure out what you have for caster correction. Popular options include geometry brackets or longer/adjustable lower front control arms.
Also, that rear trackbar bracket is not very good and you may want to upgrade it to a stronger version. That type is something of a weak link.

Thanks! I was thinking of dropping the springs down to 3.5" but not too sure if the 37's will clear? Definitely getting the front lower control arms and geometry bracket. Thanks for the advice with the rear TB bracket. I'll throw a new one in my amazon cart too.

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GuzziMoto

· #4 · Apr 3, 2022

Hilbs said:
Thanks! I was thinking of dropping the springs down to 3.5" but not too sure if the 37's will clear? Definitely getting the front lower control arms and geometry bracket. Thanks for the advice with the rear TB bracket. I'll throw a new one in my amazon cart too.

37’s on a JK/JKU should clear with either a 3.5” lift or a 2.5” lift and flat fenders.
What gears do you have?
37’s also want other mods like upgraded brakes and steering. Also, a D30 front axle isn’t recommended with 37’s.
37’s are noticeably more expensive than 35’s.
You can run a 3.5” lift with just lower front control arms, but all eight control arms will allow you to recenter the axles in the wheel wells. That can be important with 37’s.

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Hilbs

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 3, 2022

GuzziMoto said:
37’s on a JK/JKU should clear with either a 3.5” lift or a 2.5” lift and flat fenders.
What gears do you have?
37’s also want other mods like upgraded brakes and steering. Also, a D30 front axle isn’t recommended with 37’s.
37’s are noticeably more expensive than 35’s.
You can run a 3.5” lift with just lower front control arms, but all eight control arms will allow you to recenter the axles in the wheel wells. That can be important with 37’s.

Ok cool. I plan to dump the 37's for 35's and 24" wheels for 17-20's once I wear em out some but that may happen sooner than later since it seems like I'm looking at a lot more work to keep them.
Haven't checked the gears yet but I'm thinking it will be 3.73 since it has the max tow pkg. Thinking of doing the front lowers and rear uppers for now until I can do all 8. Quality adjustable control arms are so expensive these days.

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fiend

· #6 · Apr 3, 2022

What problem are you trying to solve? What don’t you like about how your Jeep drives or handles?

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Hilbs

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 3, 2022

fiend said:
What problem are you trying to solve? What don’t you like about how your Jeep drives or handles?

Mostly the drivability. Right now it has some bump steer and handles terrible in the wind. Also I want to do a little off roading and don’t want to destroy it in the process.

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Jester1492

· #8 · Apr 4, 2022

Hilbs said:
Ok cool. I plan to dump the 37's for 35's and 24" wheels for 17-20's once I wear em out some but that may happen sooner than later since it seems like I'm looking at a lot more work to keep them.
Haven't checked the gears yet but I'm thinking it will be 3.73 since it has the max tow pkg. Thinking of doing the front lowers and rear uppers for now until I can do all 8. Quality adjustable control arms are so expensive these days.

There seems to be a consensus that it is best to go with smaller wheels (17 vice 20) when you replace the wheels and tires and than get tires with a taller sidewall. If you are on a tight budget, suggest getting a geometry correction bracket (either AEV or Metalcloak). It will allow you to use the stock control arms which are much cheaper than adjustable one until you can afford them (if you decide you want them), although they do result is some lost of ground clearance. Also, I may be looking in the wrong spot; however, it doesnt look like you have C gussets on your front axle so you may want to dump the 37s earlier rather than later. Another thing to check is make sure your drive shafts havent been replaced, the stock DS have a tendency to fail quicker when a jeep is lifted more than about 3.5 in. If they have been replaced it may be something you have to deal with if you go to a smaller lift. You can also get an idea of the lift height by measuring how long the swaybar links are (it isnt an exact relationship).

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Hilbs

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 4, 2022

Jester1492 said:
There seems to be a consensus that it is best to go with smaller wheels (17 vice 20) when you replace the wheels and tires and than get tires with a taller sidewall. If you are on a tight budget, suggest getting a geometry correction bracket (either AEV or Metalcloak). It will allow you to use the stock control arms which are much cheaper than adjustable one until you can afford them (if you decide you want them), although they do result is some lost of ground clearance. Also, I may be looking in the wrong spot; however, it doesnt look like you have C gussets on your front axle so you may want to dump the 37s earlier rather than later. Another thing to check is make sure your drive shafts havent been replaced, the stock DS have a tendency to fail quicker when a jeep is lifted more than about 3.5 in. If they have been replaced it may be something you have to deal with if you go to a smaller lift. You can also get an idea of the lift height by measuring how long the swaybar links are (it isnt an exact relationship).

Awesome. Exactly what I was starting to think. It has no C Gussets, stock DS, stock gears, with what looks like a 4.25” lift.

Looks like I’ll be ripping the old “lift” out and starting fresh with a 2.5” 17’s and 35’s. Biggest issue I have now is buying wheels and tires and being stuck with these 37x13.5-24 monstrosities

lol. Hopefully I can sell and recoup some of the loss.

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Jester1492

· #10 · Apr 4, 2022

Hilbs said:
Awesome. Exactly what I was starting to think. It has no C Gussets, stock DS, stock gears, with what looks like a 4.25” lift. Looks like I’ll be ripping the old “lift” out and starting fresh with a 2.5” 17’s and 35’s. Biggest issue I have now is buying wheels and tires and being stuck with these 37x13.5-24 monstrosities lol. Hopefully I can sell and recoup some of the loss.

One option as a starting point to reduce costs would be to get some take-off stock wheels and tires. You can find take-off stock wheels in several places (craigslist, facebook, etc) for a reasonable cost and sometimes stock tires (there are several used tire stores locally where I am) at a reduced cost for a temporary fix. It is tough to replace/install a lift along with new wheels and tires simultaneously. Plus if there is more tread on your current tires you may be able to get more for them.

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