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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently decided to upgrade my trail only xj and get a wrangler for a street and trail toy. Among the many aftermarket parts, its got a new set of dynatrac 44's under it. It currently has a 4in lift, stock steering and terrible death wobble. The track bar bushing is worn out, and the drag link has a lot of slop.

I want to upgrade to a high steer kit and track bar. Looking at a teraflex kit. Cant seem to find if it will fit the dynatrac axle.

From looking at the 30 under my xj, and the prorock 44, the knuckles and all the outer stuff look to be the same. Will the teraflex kit fit it?
 

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You realize the TF kit uses a special passenger side knuckle?

I just removed mine and sold it to a guy building a buggy. I installed a Currie and will not feel any regret for having removed the TF HS kit.
 

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High steer sounds cool to inexperienced Jeepers but generally speaking, it's just bad news. Currie's HD steering kit is worth installing. DW is normally caused by a combination of problems like a loose track bar together with imperfectly balanced tires. Something is loose somewhere or your tires are really out of balance.
 

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Ford Super Duties and TJs have totally different steering geometries. The TJ's inverted-Y design is superb and a bolt-on high-steer system won't work nearly as well. Which is why Currie's heavy duty steering kit is, by far, the most commonly recommended steering kit for the TJ... it doesn't change or screw up the geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds good to me...

This is what we are talking about correct?
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts




Also, track bar bushing is shot and the heim on the one end has some slop in it. Id like to get one that is greaseable on both ends. Heims never seem to hold up in the salt. Its got a 4in lift.

Any recommendations on a track bar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Basically, Im trying to avoid making another mistake buying junk parts. I put this kit on my Cherokee. Its chinsey, wasnt at all a "bolt on deal" and you have to weld those brackets onto the knuckles. Looks cool, that's about it tho

 

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The TF HS kit is not bolt on. It requires considerable fabrication and new brackets, alteration of the track bar bracket, removal of the steering stabilizer bracket and relocation (to God only knows where), removal of the sway bar axle side brackets and replacement with some other riggings of unknown description (they sell some and they are on my axles, welded on).

It was replaced by a Currie steering and it is so much better and actually safe to drive now. This non functional and unsafe mess:







And voila, now:



The Currie is normally (completely) bolt on but obviously thanks to the PO shenanigans I had to do a lot of figuring, some cutting, a bit of welding and rewelding but in the end, I think it is better. I need to do a tie rod flip on the driver side since I have enough room to park the Queen Mary there.

Here is the recipe for success, Savvy/Currie:

front track bar
rear track bar
steering
control arms

Quality parts, quality design from quality people right here in the USA. Do not misunderstand, I still have TF springs, they are fine, the PO gifted me with the TF DR Street and Trail anti-sway and while it must have cost him a fortune, I love the system so much I would be tempted to buy it again (even given that it is not Jeep PC apparently). But the TF High Steer system, run Forest run. Just my opinion, others may have a different take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've got to parts ordered. As it turns out, one of the front wheels was bent. Rotated the tires and the death wobble went away. Add some new wheels to the list
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Upon further inspection once I got the jeep up on the lift to install the steering and track bar the rear control arms have alot of slop in them.
It has a 4 in lift on it with factory uppers. I was looking at long arm kits. Is there a decent brand or should I just get those curry short arms to replace them.

I replace every grease zerk, and most bushings still wouldn't take grease. I'm assuming this cheapo lift with 20k on it is shot.
 

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Basically, Im trying to avoid making another mistake buying junk parts. I put this kit on my Cherokee. Its chinsey, wasnt at all a "bolt on deal" and you have to weld those brackets onto the knuckles. Looks cool, that's about it tho

that picture of a great example of some real bad steering geometry.

As said, the ZJ V8 tie-rod or the Currie stuff is about the best bolt-on stuff you're going to find.

If you REALLY want to go to a true high-steer setup, it's going to take a lot of work & fabrication. For example, it's common for people to use WJ parts to make this work, and as a bonus you get big brakes out of it. You need to be ready to fabricate & spend time tinkering.

Here's a good write-up...notice the cost is about $1900.
WJ Knuckle/Brake/Steering Swap. Anyone want a write-up? - JeepForum.com

here's another write-up:
Pond Scum - JeepForum.com

Notice the frame is notched to clear the high steer at full bump:


It's also important to notice all the brackets have been relocated. The spring perches have been moved over the axle tube so that the track bar can be positioned parallel and in the same plane as the drag-link. The TJ perches are in front of the axle tube and prevent using a track bar that is the proper length...so some do it with a short stubby track bar, but this still screws up your geometry.

So, as you can see, you can get a Vanco big brake kit and Currie steering for less work and less cost than it will be to do a hi-steer correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've already bolted on the currie steering and front track bar.

I only mentioned high steer because I thought it was the best setup. I don't keep up on jeeps like I do my diesels.



On from steering, rear upper control arms are shot. Rear shocks are leaking.

Recommendations on shocks? Long arms/short arm kit ect.
 

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Currie/Savvy short arms.
 

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I've already bolted on the currie steering and front track bar.

I only mentioned high steer because I thought it was the best setup. I don't keep up on jeeps like I do my diesels.



On from steering, rear upper control arms are shot. Rear shocks are leaking.

Recommendations on shocks? Long arms/short arm kit ect.
the easy option for "hi-steer" with the Currie stuff is to flip the drivers side tie-rod. It requires welding new sway bar mounts on the axle, and some knuckle mods. Black Magic Brakes has the kits.

People often recommend Bilstein, Rancho 9000 adjustables or Fox shocks. I run Old Man Emu shocks and I'm happy....got almost 70k miles on them now, and they're kinda getting worn out...
 

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Curious why short arms over long arms
remember, "long" arms just means they are longer than stock arms (which are called short arms). there's nothing wrong with long arms....if they are done right. the vast majority of kits sacrifice geometry for packaging and easy installation.

If you really want long arms that will function great when it matters, you'll need to redesign the entire suspension system...taking into account the locations of mounting points, anti-squat, roll center and other suspension parameters. There are lots of good build threads out there on this...its a couple months of work.

So unless you're looking to open that can of worms, then just stick with stock mounting points and a good set of short arms. don't get me wrong though, there are definite advantages to a good "long" arm setup. ride isn't one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I'll just get short arms then.


I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel, or take on much if any fab work.

I just spent the last year putting a twin turbo duramax in my 72 C10... I'm about all fabbed out.

Looking for a clean, we'll mannered daily driver/beater (that actually fits in my garage) with the occasional light wheelin trip.

However, from driving 600hp diesel to and from work, and a 550hp semi. This wrangler feels like a giant turd. I need to resist the urge to put a 5.3 in it...
 
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