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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering something
While running in some deep snow I needed to wheel speed of 4 low but speed of a higher gear
So I ran my manual tranny in 2 gear 4 low. Is that ok and how high of a gear could we run in 4 low before blowing it

thanks

Pastor Scott
 

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My thoughts:

Fifth gear is a 1:1 ratio, so less stress is applied to the tranny than 6th gear, which is overdrive.

This would matter if throttling really hard and fast, like when plowing through snow.

In my Rubicon with the 4:1 t-case ratio in low range, it's hard to get a lot of wheel spin in any gear, but when I do need to hammer hard on it I try to use 5th gear or lower with the trans.

Any more thoughts on hammering hard in 4-lo, sixth gear, second gear, or any gear for that matter?
 

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6th gear puts less stress on the transfer case than 5th. 250 ft-lbs of torque at 1:1 is 250 ft-lbs of torque into the transfer case. 250 @ .84 is 210 ft-lbs. 1st gear at 4.46 is 1115 ft-lbs.

I kind of wish the rubi had a 3 speed box. Hi-Lo-LoLo. 6-Low is like 1st an a half-Hi. Not much over lap to find a happy spot. I miss the doubler in my F150; HI on snow roads, Lo on trails and LoLo when stuff gets interesting.
 

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The Bad Guy
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IMO you are better off in 4H with ESP off in snow, sand, or mud. Much easier to get wheel speed in a lower gear while keeping RPM within reason. I had a issue with an unplowed street that was a hill. I was in 1st gear and moving, but barely. I was fighting to keep the RPM's below the redline while still keeping the Jeep moving forward.
 

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6th gear puts less stress on the transfer case than 5th. 250 ft-lbs of torque at 1:1 is 250 ft-lbs of torque into the transfer case. 250 @ .84 is 210 ft-lbs. 1st gear at 4.46 is 1115 ft-lbs.
Interesting point about the stress put on the t-case in the lower transmission gears. Your numbers really illustrate that.

With that said, I guess consideration need to be given to what component (the trans or t-case) is better suited to take the load.

My understanding is the manual transmission's torque rating is barely sufficient for it's application behind the Pentastar 3.6. The automatic actually has a higher torque rating.

I put high torque stress on the t-case vs my manual transmission, when given the choice, especially 6th gear. The Wrangler's t-case is pretty strong.
 

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I kind of wish the rubi had a 3 speed box. Hi-Lo-LoLo. 6-Low is like 1st an a half-Hi. Not much over lap to find a happy spot. I miss the doubler in my F150; HI on snow roads, Lo on trails and LoLo when stuff gets interesting.
I totally agree with you on that. Often times my Rubi's 4lo is too low and 4hi is too high.........
 

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IMO you are better off in 4H with ESP off in snow, sand, or mud. Much easier to get wheel speed in a lower gear while keeping RPM within reason. I had a issue with an unplowed street that was a hill. I was in 1st gear and moving, but barely. I was fighting to keep the RPM's below the redline while still keeping the Jeep moving forward.
I suppose I would agree with you when dealing with snow on paved public roads, however, where I go snow wheeling 4hi is not an option. (we don't get much snow in the lowlands where I live) My engine and clutch would not take that kind of abuse. 4lo in second or third gear was all my Jeep could pull with both axles locked and all four tires plowing:


snow jeep.jpg
 

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I completely disagree with ESP being beneficial in the snow. We just had snow a few days ago, and I was driving around in 2H/4H with ESP. It got to the point where it ESP was so dangerous I had to pull the J6 fuse so I wouldn't crash.
 

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I completely disagree with ESP being beneficial in the snow. We just had snow a few days ago, and I was driving around in 2H/4H with ESP. It got to the point where it ESP was so dangerous I had to pull the J6 fuse so I wouldn't crash.
That's another reason I avoid 4hi whenever possible. 4lo disables all that nanny crap. I don't have tuner so 4hi restricts the swaybar disconnect, diff locks, ect.

4lo allows total operator control. I'm a control freak that way......

Which is a whole other topic.
 

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I suppose I would agree with you when dealing with snow on paved public roads, however, where I go snow wheeling 4hi is not an option. (we don't get much snow in the lowlands where I live) My engine and clutch would not take that kind of abuse. 4lo in second or third gear was all my Jeep could pull with both axles locked and all four tires plowing:


View attachment 2785666
My previous experience 4H with wheel spin was the way to go. Keep in mind that is a full size with NP435/203-205, severe duty clutch and the front & rear are linked but the diffs are open still.

Last time out I was running 4H in the JK and I was getting wheel hop. I dropped to 6-L, locked both ends and just crawled. No wheel spin and made about the same forward rate. Not nearly as cool looking without the rooster tails though...
 

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The true use of 4lo is to make it easier on the tranny and engine in situations of work. Most Jeeps in even a foot of snow climbs over it and you should use 4hi. If it is deep enough to where you are plowing or pushing snow than 4lo should be used. Of course there are exceptions. Like the rubicons. If they want lockers or sway bar disconnected then they have to put it in 4lo. Personally until I started plowing I would be 4 hi.
 

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It normally depends for me... If I am on level terrain sometimes I go into 4-6th gear, just to get up to speed, and keep the revs as low as possible.. But yeah, I normally try to stay at around 25mph, or so.
 

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That's another reason I avoid 4hi whenever possible. 4lo disables all that nanny crap. I don't have tuner so 4hi restricts the swaybar disconnect, diff locks, ect.

4lo allows total operator control. I'm a control freak that way......

Which is a whole other topic.
Well you can disable it in 4H too, but I was switching between 4H and 2H so I just pulled the J6 fuse. Plus for some reason, it got to the point where it would not let me disable ESP in 4H. I should probably check that again to make sure that there is not an issue that needs to be fixed. I can't think of any reason why it would do that.
 

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I've ran all gears in 4-low for a long time.
 

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I completely disagree with ESP being beneficial in the snow. We just had snow a few days ago, and I was driving around in 2H/4H with ESP. It got to the point where it ESP was so dangerous I had to pull the J6 fuse so I wouldn't crash.
Who said it was beneficial in the snow? I said 4H with ESP OFF. There's not need to pull a fuse. Simply holding the button for 5 seconds when in 4H shuts it off.
 

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6th gear puts less stress on the transfer case than 5th. 250 ft-lbs of torque at 1:1 is 250 ft-lbs of torque into the transfer case. 250 @ .84 is 210 ft-lbs. 1st gear at 4.46 is 1115 ft-lbs.

I kind of wish the rubi had a 3 speed box. Hi-Lo-LoLo. 6-Low is like 1st an a half-Hi. Not much over lap to find a happy spot. I miss the doubler in my F150; HI on snow roads, Lo on trails and LoLo when stuff gets interesting.
Ive been doing some reading on the iveco daily. It has a quad range transfer case, low,low,low,low, gives a reduction of 101:1.... Now that would be amazing in a jk

Iveco 4x4 55S17W Going Bush
 

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Who said it was beneficial in the snow? I said 4H with ESP OFF. There's not need to pull a fuse. Simply holding the button for 5 seconds when in 4H shuts it off.
Oops. I misread your post; I'll take blame for that one. I read "you are better off with ESP in the snow."

I pulled the fuse because I didn't want ESP in 2H either.
 

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The Bad Guy
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Oops. I misread your post; I'll take blame for that one. I read "you are better off with ESP in the snow."

I pulled the fuse because I didn't want ESP in 2H either.
Did you lose ABS and BLD as well? I wouldn't want that trade off.
 

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Did you lose ABS and BLD as well? I wouldn't want that trade off.
Yes you lose everything. ABS, BLD, HSA, cruise control. ABS is useless in the snow so that is no biggie (you actually stop faster w/o ABS in the snow). BLD is useful but I have front/rear Truetracs so it is not as important. Cruise control should never be used in the snow.

In my opinion, it is totally worth it to me if I plan on driving around in 2H at all because that is really the only way to disable ESC in 2H. It's not as important in 4H because you can just disable ESC with the button, but even in 4H I might consider just removing the fuse from now on just to disable ABS as well. The only thing I am missing out on really is BLD, but like I said, Truetracs.
 
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