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I have a 2016 JKU w/2.5" lift and 35" tires and need to pull an ATV trailer. I have the hitch package but do I need a drop hitch ball to account for the lift?

If so, any recommendations on size of drop and hitch ball brand/type?
 

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Any Reese hitch and ball will work as long as the ball is the right size for the trailer. The drop will depend on the distance between your ball and the hitch of the trailer. I have 35s with no lift and I have a 3 inch drop for my trailer. I could go 4 to level it out a bit more.

Take your measurements and then head to Walmart or Lowe's to pick up a Reese hitch and ball. I've used Reese for years pulling everything from dump trailers to horses.

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The coupler on the trailer should have the ball size on it. I would guess a 1 7/8" or 2" for that size of trailer. Be certain you have the right size as it could come loose.


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What Luv said. I have three different arms for three different vehicles. Put the trailer tongue next to the receiver and take a measurement.
 
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Check out Etrailer, they sell cushioned receivers. More expensive than anything at Walmart or Tractor Supply but they really take the push/pull out of towing. I use a 14K receiver and a 12K ball on my F350, 7.3L and I can feel the difference between a noncushioned and cushioned receiver. If you only need 1, it's definitely worth the extra money. You can also get 2" balls with a higher rating than the standard 5/6K at Walmart. When towing overkill is always better!

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Cushioned+receiver
 

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The coupler on the trailer should have the ball size on it. I would guess a 1 7/8" or 2" for that size of trailer. Be certain you have the right size as it could come loose.
I messed up once and had a 2" ball on for my 16' flatbed (2 5/16 coupler). I was picking it up from being loaned to the Scout Camp. Hooked up the trailer to my Ram 2500 then proceeded to load the tractor. Just as all the weight of the tractor hit the back of the trailer, instead of picking the rear of the PU up slightly, the tongue of the trailer came off the ball.

Fortunately the 2 5/16 ball was in the back of the truck and it only took a few minutes to take the 2" off the shaft and put the 2 5/16" on. I had the convert-a-ball system. I always checked the ball after that.

That trailer, truck and tractor went to a friend so the only trailer I have now is a 5' x 10' utility trailer to haul the lawn mower to the shop and the golf cart out to camp. However it has little 5.30x12" tires and wheels on it so the tongue is low. Behind my JKU I need about a 9" drop and I knew I wouldn't find one locally and couldn't find one on line either. So I found this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE06ZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The great thing is I can adjust it to fit my TJ so easily as well.
 
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I have a 2016 JKU w/2.5" lift and 35" tires and need to pull an ATV trailer. I have the hitch package but do I need a drop hitch ball to account for the lift?

If so, any recommendations on size of drop and hitch ball brand/type?
There are so many different trailer configurations that it would be impossible for anyone to tell you exactly what size you need.

I can tell you that you will need to make sure that your trailer is as level as possible when mounted to the Jeep. That is going to take some trial and error on your part and measuring the height of the tongue with it level against the receiver of the Jeep and go from there.

If you can find a few friends with different receivers to let you borrow it will help in getting the correct drop.
 

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I have the same lift and tires. My drop hitch to pull my SxS is an 8" drop. Like many said though, it will depend on your trailer.


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Just wanna add that if you're going to wheel at all, get a smooth, forged hitch. Then you can also flip it upside down to act as a skid plate for your spare tire.
 

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Ideally you want your trailer hitch to angle slightly down... which will depend on the trailer height as well, but it isn't rare to need 4 to 6 inches of drop for a lifted Jeep and a light-duty trailer. If it is angled up, when you try stop the leverage of the trailer can lift your back wheels up, or lighten the load enough to skid.

So, it's important...
 

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The important part is, yes, your trailer should be level when connected to your vehicle.

And if you don't have trailer brakes be VERY careful when braking into corners . . . going downhill . . . on a twisty stretch of roadway . . . heading to the river to go waterskiing at 6 am in the morning ;)
 

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Based on what you describe - yes. You will likely need some drop on your hitch.

Not saying this is your situation, but on our stock '17 Wrangler Unlimited with 32 inch tires/17 inch wheels, and the Max Tow package hitch, getting our boat trailer and my parent's pop-up camper hooked up and still level took a 5 1/2 inch drop hitch. I must have spent five or six hours measuring and comparing the Jeep to our Ram pickup (which was set up by a trailer company to tow our boat level).

I've seen people go to Walmart and buy a standard hitch/ball (no drop) and drag a trailer behind them its coupler either too high or nearly dragging on the the ground.

If you tow different trailers with different coupler sizes (1 7/8, 2-inch or 2 5/16ths) look into something like the Convert-a-Ball system. You just swap one size ball for another on the same hitch pin. Stainless, nickel or chrome for both the balls and the hitch pin are options.
 

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I've seen people go to Walmart and buy a standard hitch/ball (no drop) and drag a trailer behind them its coupler either too high or nearly dragging on the the ground.

If you tow different trailers with different coupler sizes (1 7/8, 2-inch or 2 5/16ths) look into something like the Convert-a-Ball system. You just swap one size ball for another on the same hitch pin. Stainless, nickel or chrome for both the balls and the hitch pin are options.
Experience is talking there. I don't think I have ever found an insert with the proper drop at a Wal-Mart. A little planning ahead and you can have Amazon drop one on your front stoop in two days.

I have used the Convert-a-balls for over two decades, after a friend showed them to me. I avoid the chrome ones and have paid the extra for stainless. The chrome wears off and will rust. Nickle should be fine. (Of course I tended to leave the inserts in the hitch on my truck). I used to buy the 3 ball sets, but not I go for the 2 ball sets with the 1" shank which fits most HD 2" inserts. I sold my heavy trailer so no longer need the 2 5/16" ball.

Another reason I like Convert-a-ball is they have a provision for a cotter key under the nut. No other ball I have ever seen has that. Yes, if you get the nut on a standard ball tight it is not supposed to come off. But, Murphy's law is always out there and if you have ever had a trailer come off on the interstate you will never, ever forget it. Fortunately for me when it happened, the only thing damaged was a tail light. This was one of those times when a nephew by marriage was returning a trailer but did not return the drop insert, so he put a ball on the step of the bumper on my PU. Trailer was angled up (bad) so the coupler was rubbing the ball (bad) so every time I went around a curve or turned it moved the ball a little bit (bad) and of course the ball had not cotter key since it was a cheap ball as well (very bad).
 
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As said, you will just have to take some measurements and figure it out. You will probably need a hitch that drops 5-6". You can find them at Walmart, Autozone, Amazon, eTrailer, hardware stores or about a zillion other places.

Here is my JKU with a 2.5" lift and 33" tires. I used a 5" drop hitch and the U-Haul trailer was still slightly raised in the front, not enough to have any effect or worry about. We pulled it 850 miles no problem. We also pulled a small ATV trailer that did sit perfectly level. This particular one was bought at a NAPA store in a pinch and originally used as a riser hitch to flat tow to my CJ-8 behind my pickup. I just unbolted the ball and flipped it around to use as a drop hitch behind my JKU.

Here you can see the drop hitch peeking out in there. (I unhitched the trailer and backed up against it to fit in a hotel parking spot)
 

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Some real good advice here. Get a drop hitch for sure and get it level. I have multiple hitches because I have had multiple Jeeps and lifts.
 

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And DO NOT forget to throw the locking lever on the ball. Bad things happen when the tongue pops off of the ball. Cue the lewd comments in 3...2...1


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