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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since trading in my old 2007 Dodge Caliber for my new 2013 JKUR, I have not missed a thing about the old car, except for the Homelink Garage door opener... Seems like something so simple to include on a Jeep, yet Chrysler hasn't done it yet. So I decided to install one myself. I did a lot of research into what other people have done, and decided to install it above the rear view mirror - I think someone on a different JK forum did it here too.

I wanted to share back with the community and hope this helps others out there looking to do the same thing.

I bought a Homelink unit off of ebay for ~$35.

I knew that the location I wanted to install it was very space limited. I took out the front overhead to get a better look and measure the space. I saw that it would fit with a little downsizing, so I had to trim the one end of the unit where the circuit board sticks out of the box. Here, I soldered the pos(+ White) and neg (- Black) wires directly into the circuit board and clipped away the rest.

Electronic engineering Electronics Computer hardware Circuit component Electronic component

From here I measured the holes and created a template to drill the holes into the overhead. This part is very important to measure twice, drill once!

From reading other threads, I knew that the thickness of the overhead would not allow the homelink faceplate to clip into the homelink unit. Some people used cotter pins or tried glue.. I wanted to avoid that if I could, so what I did instead, was drill the holes just big enough that the faceplate would clip into the holes and overhead instead of through the overhead and into the unit.
For the three buttons I used a 15/64 drill bit.
For the LED, I used a 13/64 drill bit.
For the clips, I used a 5/32 drill bit (This worked perfectly)

Floor Flooring Wood Games

When placing the unit onto the overhead, I tried to fit it up as high as I could, however, there is a slight curve to the plastic and I tried shaving the corner of the unit to fit more flush with the inside of the overhead.

Here comes the next problem. Because of the extra thickness of the overhead plastic, the rubber buttons on the faceplate will not reach the buttons on the circuit board. I found that the best thing to use was eraser ends from a mechanical pencil. I lucked out because the diameter of the eraser fit perfectly with the button holes in the Homelink unit. This idea I got from another creative Jeeper. You will need to shave the eraser ends to get the perfect thickness.

Electronics

Now that this all has worked out so far, time to place the homelink unit onto the inside of the overhead. This is tough and there are other ways to do this. First I used a glue gun to glue the unit down. Then I melted 4 small holes on the plastic walls beside the unit and strung fishing line through them to tie it down more firmly. Then I used electrical tape to tape it down.

Technology Room Machine

In hindsight, I wish I had used something more sturdy (and not elastic), such as metal strapping...

Next step - wiring into the Jeep. I didn't want to run wire all through the dash to the lighter... seemed like a lot of pulling things apart that I didn't want to do. Instead, I spliced it into the power source for the rear view mirror. This may not be an option for some Jeepers out there, so you may have to open up your dash afterall...

I honestly thought this part would be easy. I found the wiring connector pin identification diagram for the mirror at this website:

Mopar Connector Repair Kit Website

There are 5 wires going to the mirror. Two are thicker (a white and a black). At first I thought that the white would be the source, but it wasn't, even thought it is the "Backup Lamp Feed", I registered no voltage on my multimeter. The Black is the ground though. The Red is a source only when the keys are in the ignition set to ON, however, when the keys are out, the voltage reads 0 V. The Yellow with Light Blue (pin 4) is the "Reading Lamp Driver" and has a 12V source when the keys are in and set to ON. It also has a small 0.7V feed when vehicle is off. This I think is what you need in order. I hope that this will enable the homelink device to at least remember garage codes.

It would have been nice to have something more substation for a source, but I think this will work (I'll let you know if it doesn't later)

After splicing black to black and white to yellow/LB, I wrapped everything up and put the Jeep back together.

Here's how it looks!

Yellow Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Windshield

Hope this helps others out there looking to do this great Mod!
 

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Retired Mod
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Nice....

I wish this was a factory option...
 

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Oh nice, I was thinking about switching the mirror to a home link one


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I did the same mod to mine, it's one of my favorite things I've done so far.
 

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This will be one of my first mods when my jeep comes in. I just ordered a black version off ebay for $29 shipped. But I have a question about wiring. I have read on other forums these homelink units do not need power to remember codes, but sounds like you wired it to have power all the time. My concern is if I leave the jeep in the driveway with the top off or doors off, anyone can just open the garage if there is power to the homelink unit all the time. I would think you would want power with the key in the ignition only. Thats how my current audi system works. So does anyone know with certainty that these units need power to remember codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They don't require power to remember the codes. I found this out after the fact, but It says on the homelink website that it is optional to do a constant 12V supply or only when the engine is on. The wire I used only supplies a 0.7V supply when vehicle is off. This is not enough voltage to power and operate the device. My rational at the time was only that it may be enough to keep the device's memory savvy, but it sounds like you don't need that afterall.

The auto dim rv mirror doesn't have a constant 12V supply I found.

Good luck!
 

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What is this "overhead" you are referring to? Are you talking about the header? What happens when you take down the soft top or remove the hard top?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
daggo66 said:
What is this "overhead" you are referring to? Are you talking about the header? What happens when you take down the soft top or remove the hard top?
Overhead a.k.a. the header. I wasn't sure what to call it. It's that plastic piece above the rear view mirror in which I installed the homelink unit behind. This plastic piece doesn't move with either soft or hard top on.

To take it off you have to remove the sun visors and upper corner pieces first.
 

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The Bad Guy
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Ok, that's not the header. The header moves with the soft top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't know what you would call it then... The "overhead clip on piece above the rear view mirror plastic thing-a-ma-jig"...
 

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B.F.J. said:
Since trading in my old 2007 Dodge Caliber for my new 2013 JKUR, I have not missed a thing about the old car, except for the Homelink Garage door opener... Seems like something so simple to include on a Jeep, yet Chrysler hasn't done it yet. So I decided to install one myself. I did a lot of research into what other people have done, and decided to install it above the rear view mirror - I think someone on a different JK forum did it here too.

I wanted to share back with the community and hope this helps others out there looking to do the same thing.

I bought a Homelink unit off of ebay for ~$35.

I knew that the location I wanted to install it was very space limited. I took out the front overhead to get a better look and measure the space. I saw that it would fit with a little downsizing, so I had to trim the one end of the unit where the circuit board sticks out of the box. Here, I soldered the pos(+ White) and neg (- Black) wires directly into the circuit board and clipped away the rest.

From here I measured the holes and created a template to drill the holes into the overhead. This part is very important to measure twice, drill once!

From reading other threads, I knew that the thickness of the overhead would not allow the homelink faceplate to clip into the homelink unit. Some people used cotter pins or tried glue.. I wanted to avoid that if I could, so what I did instead, was drill the holes just big enough that the faceplate would clip into the holes and overhead instead of through the overhead and into the unit.
For the three buttons I used a 15/64 drill bit.
For the LED, I used a 13/64 drill bit.
For the clips, I used a 5/32 drill bit (This worked perfectly)

When placing the unit onto the overhead, I tried to fit it up as high as I could, however, there is a slight curve to the plastic and I tried shaving the corner of the unit to fit more flush with the inside of the overhead.

Here comes the next problem. Because of the extra thickness of the overhead plastic, the rubber buttons on the faceplate will not reach the buttons on the circuit board. I found that the best thing to use was eraser ends from a mechanical pencil. I lucked out because the diameter of the eraser fit perfectly with the button holes in the Homelink unit. This idea I got from another creative Jeeper. You will need to shave the eraser ends to get the perfect thickness.

Now that this all has worked out so far, time to place the homelink unit onto the inside of the overhead. This is tough and there are other ways to do this. First I used a glue gun to glue the unit down. Then I melted 4 small holes on the plastic walls beside the unit and strung fishing line through them to tie it down more firmly. Then I used electrical tape to tape it down.

In hindsight, I wish I had used something more sturdy (and not elastic), such as metal strapping...

Next step - wiring into the Jeep. I didn't want to run wire all through the dash to the lighter... seemed like a lot of pulling things apart that I didn't want to do. Instead, I spliced it into the power source for the rear view mirror. This may not be an option for some Jeepers out there, so you may have to open up your dash afterall...

I honestly thought this part would be easy. I found the wiring connector pin identification diagram for the mirror at this website:

Mopar Connector Repair Kit Website

There are 5 wires going to the mirror. Two are thicker (a white and a black). At first I thought that the white would be the source, but it wasn't, even thought it is the "Backup Lamp Feed", I registered no voltage on my multimeter. The Black is the ground though. The Red is a source only when the keys are in the ignition set to ON, however, when the keys are out, the voltage reads 0 V. The Yellow with Light Blue (pin 4) is the "Reading Lamp Driver" and has a 12V source when the keys are in and set to ON. It also has a small 0.7V feed when vehicle is off. This I think is what you need in order. I hope that this will enable the homelink device to at least remember garage codes.

It would have been nice to have something more substation for a source, but I think this will work (I'll let you know if it doesn't later)

After splicing black to black and white to yellow/LB, I wrapped everything up and put the Jeep back together.

Here's how it looks!

Hope this helps others out there looking to do this great Mod!
I was also disappointed that there was no garage door opener option for my 13 Sahara JK and because my garage is full my Jeep sits in the driveway (under a Covercraft car cover) and I didn't want a sun visor clip on because anyone could break into the Jeep and open my garage door. So I bought a key fob opener with three buttons which works like a charm and goes into the house with the keys when I park the Jeep. Problem solved!
 

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thanks for the write up....

I will be doing something like this. my last 5 cars have all had home link and I'm not going back to a garage door opener now...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What bothered me most was that when the remote gets cold from being left in the jeep, the battery acts sluggish and doesn't supply enough power to operate the garage door. So I would have to sit there in front of the garage for five minutes pushing the remote button to get it to work. Sometimes I have to push the button mounted on the wall in the garage and make a run for it before the door closes on me.

This, I no longer have to do. So happy!
 

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Thanks for the write up. Got my homelink installed tonight. Took about 2.5 hours from start to finish but most of it was just making sure I did didnt drill holes in the wrong spot and getting the unit mounted solid while still getting the buttons to work. The eraser trick to get the buttons to work with the thick plastic worked out perfectly. To mount the outer trim I just drilled holes tight enough for the clips to fit through snug, no other method for fastening the trim/buttons. For mounting the unit I just drilled 4 holes at the base of the ribs and ran zip ties over to the top to hold it down. Turned out solid, the first time I zip tied it down I ended up pulling it too tight and 2 of the buttons were being pressed just from pressure. I just trimmed the erasers and zip tied it back down. . I ended up wiring into the rear view mirror wires also. I used the black for ground and pink for power. Pink has 12V with key on and 0V with it off and everything seems to be working fine.Just wanted to say thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have to make a correction to my post. The Yellow and Light Blue wire I initially spliced into for 12V power was giving the device too much power. It was still measuring 12V, however, I didn't cut into the wire to measure the amperage, which I suspect was the problem. The LED on the device seemed to burn very bright and the device would hum when the buttons were pressed. I was also not able to clear the memory by pushing the two outer buttons. Nor would the buttons blink when holding them down for the required time.

After splicing back into the Red (or Pink) wire, the device worked fine. The only set back with this wire is that when the car is in reverse (for example, when backing out of the garage), power to the device is cut. You have to place the vehicle back in park or forward in order for power to goto the device. Not a big deal, just something I'll have to get used to.

At least it works!
 

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Thanks! Was just messing with my garage opener and was frustrated that the Jeep didn't have homelink like everything else!
 

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Yeehaa great idea, thanks for the write up, I just bought one. That was one of the things that really bothered me about my Heep.
 
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