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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm at the point now that I am going to be adding some lights and other electrical accessories to my JKU. I've been doing a LOT of reading about different professional and DIY options for switch/relay solutions that people are using in their Jeeps. Since I want a clean and neat install (I'm OCD like that), but I just can't bring myself to pony-up for one of the professional kits, I decided to do it myself.

I'm creating this thread to chronicle the project. I'm a pretty handy guy, but I think this type of thing can be tackled by just about anyone willing to do it. Since, as I mentioned before, I am a bit OCD about projects, I spent a little more money and bought a few tools to make things easier. I'll list all the steps of the process, the components and the associated costs as I go so anyone who wants to follow along can.

I decided that for my project I would be going with the Cooper Bussmann 5 relay, 10 fuse box. I've seen many different builds with different configurations of this particular box, so if you're going to build along, make sure you get the same one as I did!

My first parts order from WAYTEK consisted of the following:

1ea - Bussmann Fuse/Relay Panel 15303-2-2-4 (46343) - $28.48
100ea - Packard Cavity Plug (39010) - $6.69
100ea - Delphi Cable Seal-Green (39000) - $6.30
100ea - Delphi Cable Seal-Gray (39001) - $6.34
50ea - Metri-Pack 280 Series Female Terminal 18-16ga (30069) - $5.65
50ea - Metri-Pack 280 Series Female Terminal 14-12ga (31069) - $5.66
5ea - Song Chuan ISO 280 Micro Relays (75703) - $14.55
1ea - 60A Circuit Breaker (48891) - $22.76

As you can see above, I got a few different sizes of Metri-Pack terminals and cable seals. I'm going to run 14ga wire for all of my +12v runs, and I'll be using 18ga wire for the runs to my switches. If you use different wire sizes, you'll need the appropriate seals and terminals. I also got a few terminal blocks and terminal block jumpers, but you may not need them depending on how you end up doing your project.

The Bussmann panel is rated to 80 amps total, but I went with a 60A breaker and I will be wiring everything appropriately.

Here is how it all arrived:



Let's break down how the box works... This box accepts 10 standard automotive mini fuses and 5 micro relays. It has internal busses for both +12v and NEG (ground) accessed via 1/4" studs on the bottom of the box. The +12v bus energizes one side of the bank of fuses, the NEG bus internally grounds pin 85 on your relays.

Here's a shot with more detail on how it all works:



With the micro relays, the pinout/wiring goes as follows:

- Direct power from battery to the +12v post
- Direct -NEG from battery (or chassis ground) to -NEG post
- 12v constant fused power (from Fx) to pin 30 on the relay (this is what will eventually go to your attached accessory)
- Pin 86 is the relay input (from switch)
- Pin 87 is the relay output (to accessory)

Notice that you have 10 fused outputs, but you only need five of them to power your relays. If you want to, you can use the other 5 fused outputs to power other electrical gadgets that don't require relay switching (CB or the like). I'm just going to be using the panel for the 5 relays, so the "extra" 5 fuse spots will just be plugged on my build. It's easy enough to take the plug out and connect a terminal should I change my mind later.

I spent $35 and bought a generic set of Metri-Pack crimpers on eBay. Let me say... It was WELL WORTH THE $35! It makes things so much easier!

Let's get started!

First, I practiced a bit with my crimpers until I got the hang of it. Because of the minimum quantities of terminals and cable seals that you have to buy from WAYTEK, you'll have plenty of extras to practice with. A properly crimped connector should look like this:



Make sure to crimp them nice and tight. Also, pull on the terminals to make sure they're tight, just to be sure.

Once I got the hang of it, I made the jumpers to go from fused power to pin 30 on my relays. This is the main, constant fused power that will eventually be powering my accessories, so I used 14ga wire.



Since I'm not going to be using the extra 12v fused outputs, I decided to make the wiring cleaner and simpler and use the odd numbered fuses for my relays. I also put the cavity plugs in all the holes I won't be using to keep things splash proof.



Once I got to that point, I went ahead and ran my 14ga accessory output pigtails from pin 87 on my relays. I just cut the wires right at 12" and left the one end unfinished since I haven't decided 100% on how I'm going to terminate them. Here's how it ended-up for today:



I'm still waiting on some more connectors and fancy colored wires to get here, so this is as far as I'm able to go for now. I'll update this thread as I get more done... Hopefully it won't be too long! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Damn... Can't edit posts! I was hoping to keep this thread from getting jumbled by going back and editing posts. Oh well, I guess it'll just be harder to follow along.

Mods: I guess you can delete my two placeholder posts above. If I can't edit them later, they're pointless.

Anyway...
I spent $35 and bought a generic set of Metri-Pack crimpers on eBay. Let me say... It was WELL WORTH THE $35! It makes things so much easier!
Here are the crimpers I got on eBay. Again, well worth the money for a project like this!



Hole #4 is what you use to crimp 14-16ga wire in Metri-Pack or Weatherpack terminals. Hole #3 is for 18-20ga wire. Hole #5 is to crimp the cable seal on the Metri-Pack 280 seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've seen that one and a few other guys building them. Economies of scale probably make it cheaper to buy one premade, but I wanted to do a couple things that I haven't seen available on the other boxes. It also gives me an indoor Jeep project to do while the weather is sh*tty. ;)

They are good options for the non-DIYer, though.
 

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Nice and clean! Great job. Looking forward to the updates.
 

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This is a great thread. Nice detail, and the pictures are incredibly helpful for the electrically challenged like myself. AND the parts list! I've never even seen those plugs before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got some of my wire in today, so I made my 18ga trigger wire pigtails (input trigger from switch) and installed them. 18ga wire (or even smaller) is fine for this because these wires are just the relay trigger from the future switches, so they carry almost no load.



And, since all of my wires, seals and connectors were installed in the Bussmann block, I went ahead and installed the relays themselves.



Notice the orientation of the relays as installed. The words are upside-down and the pin indicator bumps are at the top left of each relay as pictured. That is the correct way to install them in this block with this wiring configuration.
 

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We built the same for my wife's Jeep. It works great. Where are you going to mount it? Are you going to have a distribution panel so you can screw in terminals? or will you mate the wires together on each accessory? We went with a distribution bar, but then mounted it in an aluminum box and mounted over the master cylinder. But had to modify the aluminum box as finding one the right size was impossible. It's a great setup but if I could have mounted on the firewall, I would have preferred that.

On that version of the fuse/relay panel, is the second bussed terminal for the ground of the relays? I was trying to read the spec sheets and had a tough time verifying it was the relay ground. We bought the single bus, but would have preferred not making the ground jumpers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We built the same for my wife's Jeep. It works great. Where are you going to mount it? Are you going to have a distribution panel so you can screw in terminals? or will you mate the wires together on each accessory? We went with a distribution bar, but then mounted it in an aluminum box and mounted over the master cylinder. But had to modify the aluminum box as finding one the right size was impossible. It's a great setup but if I could have mounted on the firewall, I would have preferred that.

On that version of the fuse/relay panel, is the second bussed terminal for the ground of the relays? I was trying to read the spec sheets and had a tough time verifying it was the relay ground. We bought the single bus, but would have preferred not making the ground jumpers.
Yes. The second bus is for grounding the relays.

I bought terminal blocks for all of the connections. I'm thinking one of the 10 position blocks should work nicely. I'm playing around with one that has 5 positions jumpered for a common ground, then 5 positions open for feeding the positive side of the switched accessories.



I'm still looking for mounting options. I'd like to put it in the same general area as the sPOD. I've seen some Bussmann blocks mounted different ways in that area, and I like how they turned out.

I'm having so much fun with this project, I'm thinking about using one of these blocks to make my "Ultimate Head/Fog/Driving Light Harness". I need to finish one project before starting the next, though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ahh I missed this ... Sorry. Do you still want them deleted ?
For future reference ... PM a mod and we can open up a post for Edit.

Thanks for the writeup. Let me know when you're finished and I can sticky it.
Just leave it as-is for now. I still have some parts on order, so I'll keep updating this as I go. Maybe when the project is completely done I'll go back and reorganize to make things easier to follow.
 

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great write up Hooz! I just received all my parts to do this as well. Waiting to see more updates on the final install. I'm electrical noob but can follow directions pretty well so can't wait to see what you have next to show us! Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
great write up Hooz! I just received all my parts to do this as well. Waiting to see more updates on the final install. I'm electrical noob but can follow directions pretty well so can't wait to see what you have next to show us! Cheers!
My only real hang-ups at this point are mounting the box and where I want to mount my switches. Everything else is decided and underway.
 

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My only real hang-ups at this point are mounting the box and where I want to mount my switches. Everything else is decided and underway.
I have the Rugged Ridge pillar pod that I really like and looks very factory as well. I've also seen it mounted just above the left speaker (by the drivers left knee) using the OTRATTW 6 position switch and it looks pretty good.

I came across this (sorry it's from another site) for mounting the box but might mount it closer to the battery.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/...koff-1479956/#/forumsite/20623/topics/1479956
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I finally decided on my switches, so I ordered those today. I got green/red LED (upper independent) switches from OTRATTW. Damn those things are expensive for a little rocker switch!

I got the switches without rockers for now. I haven't decided what all my switches will be controlling, and I don't need them for wiring and install.

I also got the modular switch mounting panels (one set of two ends and three middle pieces) and an actuator tool. I have an idea of where I want the switches, but I need the panel parts to see if they'll fit where I want them.

I'll post more updates when stuff arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The switches came in today. I got 5 green/red switches and OTRATTW's modular switch panel things (technical term ;)).



So I put them all together.



And then I started making the harness/pigtails for them.



The red wire will be hooked-up to an ignition switched source, so the power to the switches (and the relays) will only be active when the ignition is on. I won't be able to use lights, etc. without the ignition on, but people won't be able to turn my stuff on when I leave the top/windows down or have the doors off.

The orange wire will be hooked to one of the dash illumination sources in the Jeep. That way the top LED in the switches will light-up when the headlights/dash lights are on (the lower red LED will light-up any time the switch is activated).

The black wire is a common ground for both LEDs in the switches.

The remaining tabs on the switches will be the trigger wires for the relays.
 
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