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Discussion Starter #1
Front Adams 1310 DS, last week at the trail I mush have hit a rock and didn't realize the issue until today when I was going through my weekly general inspection underneath.
I guess is just a matter of replacing the greasing zerk and a couple of touches with the hammer to put that ring straight in place ?
Thanks a lot

20160109_102402 by SilverFJ RSM, on Flickr

20160109_102407 by SilverFJ RSM, on Flickr
 

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Tough call. By the looks of the zerk you may need to tap the hole and go with a bigger one. Or, just cap it and use a needle fitting to grease the splines. The end cap should tap back into place.


Bob K.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks nwbronco, I have some spare zerks, but the fitting ends are smaller than the one that came with my shaft, so I just tapped the end cap and put it straight, and reused the same zerk for now (it goes in all the way but doesn't lock as it should), i'll go to Autozone and fetch some bigger ones.

Also it looks like the cap is in there to retain the grease you push through the zerk ?
Or the cap zerk hole is also matching a hole in the spline ?
I didn't install the shaft, so I have no idea how things are supposed to be in there, but nothing happened to the zerk, just the cap hole got a little mangled up.
 

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The cap has a rubber seal against the splines. The zerk adds the grease around the seal and down the yoke tube, it lubes the splines are filled with grease this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I called Adams this morning, and they recommended to change the dust cap and zerk, so they'll be sending me the replacements today. how difficult would it be to replace this ? i'm assuming i'll have to take the DS out ? if so, i don't have a tool to torque the dang flange at 175ft/lbs, lol, so i guess i'm going to have to call the shop who did the install for me originally, and see if they can replace the cap for me.
 

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I called Adams this morning, and they recommended to change the dust cap and zerk, so they'll be sending me the replacements today. how difficult would it be to replace this ? i'm assuming i'll have to take the DS out ? if so, i don't have a tool to torque the dang flange at 175ft/lbs, lol, so i guess i'm going to have to call the shop who did the install for me originally, and see if they can replace the cap for me.
Shouldn't have to touch the flange to remove the shaft. 4 bolts on the bottom, 4 on the top. Just had mine out 2 weekends ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so i only have to take off the bolts at the front of the transfer case flange ?
Then how to separate the spline ? The guys at Adam mentioned something about aligning up 2 holes, unfortunately i need the visuals, and i haven't found a youtube video that can show me how to do this.

Edited:
when you said you removed the 4 bolts bottom and top, you meant 4 bolts at the transfer case flange, then 4 bolts at the front pinion flange ? meaning taking the whole DS out ?

Sorry if it appears silly, but this is the first time for me looking at how to take off a driveshaft :)
 

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You shouldn't need to take the whole thing out. You should be able to just remove the 4 bolts on the pinion flange.

What is VITALLY IMPORTANT is that you make sure you put the drive shaft back together the exact same way it came apart. The shaft is balanced. Make a mark, unless it's already there, on one of the splines of the inner shaft, with the corresponding groove in the outer shaft. Make sure you put it back in the same location or the balance can be off.
 

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U joint orientation is also an important aspect of putting it back together exactly the same as it came apart spline wise. That will also cause some vibes .
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You shouldn't need to take the whole thing out. You should be able to just remove the 4 bolts on the pinion flange.

What is VITALLY IMPORTANT is that you make sure you put the drive shaft back together the exact same way it came apart. The shaft is balanced. Make a mark, unless it's already there, on one of the splines of the inner shaft, with the corresponding groove in the outer shaft. Make sure you put it back in the same location or the balance can be off.
I may attempt to do this cause being 4 bolts sounds easy enough :)
I'm assuming that i'll just take the 4 bolts off from the pinion flange, lower the shaft to take it out of the pinion, and simply separate the splines from each other ? just like that right ?

notice in the picture I posted above, there are 2 dots in the tube, I think the inner shaft then might have another mark, so I should align the inner spline with the outer that way, hopefully that was what the guy at Adams was telling me about.
 

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I may attempt to do this cause being 4 bolts sounds easy enough :)
I'm assuming that i'll just take the 4 bolts off from the pinion flange, lower the shaft to take it out of the pinion, and simply separate the splines from each other ? just like that right ?

notice in the picture I posted above, there are 2 dots in the tube, I think the inner shaft then might have another mark, so I should align the inner spline with the outer that way, hopefully that was what the guy at Adams was telling me about.
Should be as simple as that, yes. When I said 4 at the top I figured you were removing the whole thing for some reason.

Never hurts to make your own marks in addition to the adams markings, that way you really can't get confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Should be as simple as that, yes. When I said 4 at the top I figured you were removing the whole thing for some reason.

Never hurts to make your own marks in addition to the adams markings, that way you really can't get confused.
Awesome, i'll wait until I get the parts from Adams, and take a Saturday morning to do this. I figure this won't be the first and last time i'll mess with that damn zerk and dust cap :)
 

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Get yourself some red locktite to put back on those pinion flange bolts when you put it back on. There is a torque specification for those bolts, if you don't have torque wrench, you can rent one for free from many auto parts stores.

When I took my stock pinion flange bolts off, I had to use a torch to heat up the bolts and I used an impact gun to get them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What's the torque specs on the bolts that hold the shaft to the front pinion ? I've been looking for that, but the only thing I've found said 15ft/lbs ? that'll be nothing :)

Also I received the part, and bought some red Loctite, more likely i'll tackle the job this coming saturday, if you guys don't mind, i'll have some questions more likely as I get this done with pictures.

New dust cap with zerk from Adams.
20160113_113110 by SilverFJ RSM, on Flickr

20160113_113225 by SilverFJ RSM, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks again shutter, hopefully the bolts will be easy to backup, i had the DS installed back in December, so the shop already removed the factory bolts, hoping the new bolts will be easy to take off give the torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Do you guys have a recommendation on the grease to use on the splines ? Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wanted to update the tread, I couldn't get the bolts loose, so I had the cap replaced by my local Jeep shop last week. Took the Jeep to the trail yesterday and ended up focking the zerk one more time, I'm going to call Adams again today, but mainly to see what my options are as I'm not planning to keep replacing dust caps on my driveshaft every time I get the Jeep out.

Wonder if I'm going to have to use a different driveshaft with a dust cap without zerk, or do they all have the zerk in the dust cap?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Damn it, I think i'll need more clearance, lifting a tad more and/or adding bigger tires, most of the pics I've seeing with aftermarket DS's, show the zerk in the dust cap, or close to the front flange, in either spot, doing trails with some rocks, would put me in the same predicament.
 
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