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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope someone can help, I just bought another YJ, I wanted to put a 1" body lift, everything when good except when it came to the end when it said now replace the radiator support bushings, how do you get them off and the new ones on? I called Daystar they said they are held on with a bolt just remove it and replaced it with the new one. Well it rests on the frame, no way to do that, it looks like you have to remove the grill to get to the bolts....has anyone replaced these, or am I missing something??? Thanks in advance
 

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IIRC yes you have to pull the grill.the bolt is on the bottom.you may be able to loosen the grill and lift it up enough so don't have to drain the coolant..it easier that way anyways..you can relo the shroud and replace the grill body mout all at the same time..
 

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When I did my body lift the bolt in the center of the radiator support was missing. I had to buy a jack assembly that was missing also, so while I was at the junkyard I bought a bolt & bushing from a nice wrecked YJ. I couldn't get the bolt to start. I found that the nut plate that's held captive in a cage was never threaded from the factory, thus in the 26 years prior, it never had a center bolt in the front of my radiator support.
All that held the rad support were two little bumpers, one on each side of the support.

I opened the cage and tapped the nut plate and installed the bushings and bolt along with two small sections of rectangular tubing that came with the body lift kit. The rectangular tubing adds the necessary height to support the two little rubber bushings so that they make contact with the corners of the rad support once the complete kit is installed.

The radiator support center bolt on my '87 is accessable from underneath, just like the rest of the body bolts. Your '95 may be different.
If your radiator support is resting on the front of your frame, you may be missing the bushings like mine was. In order to get some clearance without removing the rad support you can jack up the Jeep and put a jackstand on the frame under each side of the cowl and then release the jack. With the weight of the front axle and suspension the frame may sag just enough give you the necessary clearance.

Every Wrangler that I have ever worked on (except mine) has had the center radiator support bolt that's removed from underneath, so I may be missing the point of your question. If so, perhaps you can post a pic or two to show what I can't see in my minds eye.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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There is usually a bolt that goes thru the center of the support bushings on each side of the front radiator support. It's really more of a crew than a bolt, and they are usually rusted to S*%t. If the center support bolt is in place take it out lift up on the bottom of the front grill and do what you have to to get the bolts out.
 

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I just looked in the Factory Parts Manual that another poster was kind enough to PM me.
It seems I was missing more than the center bolt. According to the 1987-1990 parts manual there is a cushion on each side of the rad support that's attached with a screw.
Mine didn't have them. All I had was a piece of heavy foam stuffed into each side that might have been put there by the dealer or a PO. That's all that held the support off the frame for the first 26 years of my Jeeps life.

Does the Daystar kit come with new 1" taller bushings?
My kit came with two short sections of rectangular tubing that I had to spot weld onto the frame to support the rad support bushings.
If your kit comes with 1" taller bushings, then you'll have to follow the advice by 93YJfan.

You may be able to get enough room by putting jackstands under the cowl and (very gently) jacking up the rad support. If you haven't torqued your body bolts yet, you can get a whisker more room by loosening the front body bolts as you (very Gently) lift on the rad support. If that doesn't work, then you'll probably have to remove the grill assembly.

With the grill assembly (radiator support) out of the vehicle, you can reverse flush the radiator and easily install the four small brackets that drop the shroud.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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This is kind of hard to follow but it sounds like we're really overthinking this

Loosen the other body bolts jack the body up away from the frame and change the bushings and spacers as needed...
 

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The Daystar kit comes with 2 rubber supports one for each side of the grill..it's different from the center rad body bolt...you can see mine below...sort of
 

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We all seem to think that "factory" stuff is the best. I agree....Usually.
Even the factory screws up on occasion. I guess that's why we get a warranty with a brand new vehicle (for whatever it's worth).

I know the factory screwed up on my Jeep because the nut plate in the center of my grill panel wasn't threaded until I threaded it 4 years ago. Obviously there was no center bolt.

Enclosed are a few pics of the radiator support (grill panel) cushions on the small section of the 2" square tubing that I welded in place. They came with my 2" body lift kit.
The rubber cushions are just stuffed in place and are held there by the weight of the grill panel. I think this may be a factory screw up too. Until today I thought that this is how they belong.

Pic 1 is just before or just after I installed new springs.
Pics 2&3 I took today.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hear what you are saying, my 2 radiator support bumpers a now 1” off the frame after the lift. I guess like Sccritterkiller said they are bolted from underneath, that would be a pain in the Butt. It sounds like Luckymac has I little spacer in your kit, the Daystar kit you have to R/R the support bumpers with longer ones. Gottagofast I thought of that as well but I think you would have to go too high to be able to get underneath them. I think for now I will make a 1” spacer for mine. Don’t know about removing the grill or trying to swing it up this YJ has A/C and short of disconnecting everything from the grill and getting to the bolts is not happening. Thanks very much for the info, I did find it funny that the Daystar tech. support didn’t know how to change them J
 

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I just pried the old ones off then put the new ones in place and used the weight of the body to press them on the bolt, easy peasey
 
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When i did my JKS 1.25" body lift i took the grill off to put the new bushings on.
 

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It took me a moment to figure out what you meant by JKS. The way you talk about JKs I didn't think you'd own one. JK, JKU....but I never heard of a Jeep JKS.

Took me a moment to realize the 1.25 lift kit was made by a company called "JKS".

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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It took me a moment to figure out what you meant by JKS. The way you talk about JKs I didn't think you'd own one. JK, JKU....but I never heard of a Jeep JKS.

Took me a moment to realize the 1.25 lift kit was made by a company called "JKS".

Good Luck, L.M.
Yeah, JKS got started making sway bar disconnects if i remember correctly. I bought a set of their disconnects they were very expensive but well made. I used them a hand full of times and they were a pain in the ass to put the pin though the second one if you were not on a completely flat surface. It ended up being more trouble than it was worth so i ditched the swaybar all together.

My NV4500 trans would not clear the body without a lift so i bought their 1.25" body lift and it worked perfect it fits nice and snug. If i had used a 2" i would have had more clearance than i needed and if i had used a 1" it would be cutting it VERY close.
 

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What size are the bolts?
 

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I just pried the old ones off then put the new ones in place and used the weight of the body to press them on the bolt, easy peasey
That worked for me. Large Channel lock pliers to pull them off. I installed the new ones upside down. Placing the large hole at the top. The torqz head fit snug.
 
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