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I usually hit the underside with Rustoleum Rust Reformer or Bedliner every couple of months. Rustoleum high heat paint on the exhaust parts. Looks good.
 

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I've found over the years living in MI that the best thing to do to combat rust is to keep it clean. In science we learned all about how mud is worse then salt even. The salt expells moisture faster but the layers of dirt hold the moisture up against the vehicle. Hence the reason they rust out faster in the areas where dirt builds up.

Yeah, you can do things to help protect the surfaces but washing it once a week or once every few days depending on your area is what will really save you in the long run. I also alternate w/washing and just rinsing. Sometimes I'll take the time to really scrub everything but for combating rust I'll just pay the $1.50, put it on high pressure rinse and get all the dirt & mud off from everywhere. If you go through a touch wash every week, eventually you'll wear off your clearcoat. Best to just rinse every so often...

Look at my avatar, its a 94' in MI and never been kept in the garage. Still original paint... But, its always been kept clean for 17 years now. Very little rust on 'er. My worst spot is the floor board on the drivers side by my door. That will need a little bit of patch work here within the next year or so. After mudding, I've taken upwords of three hours to wash this thing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Chris you really have a nice jeep, white and red fits good. And thank you for the tips, i will work to have clean my Toro (jeep's name)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your jeep looks cool with those hinges you did a good job. But I don't have experience to do all that but i will take the info just in case. I will just have it clean to avoid the most the rust.
 

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Don't drive it outdoors... Seriously, they are MUCH better than the old days and the metal and galvanization process is much better than it used to be. Rustproofing is a waste IMHO.
 

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I've found over the years living in MI that the best thing to do to combat rust is to keep it clean. In science we learned all about how mud is worse then salt even. The salt expells moisture faster but the layers of dirt hold the moisture up against the vehicle. Hence the reason they rust out faster in the areas where dirt builds up.

Yeah, you can do things to help protect the surfaces but washing it once a week or once every few days depending on your area is what will really save you in the long run. I also alternate w/washing and just rinsing. Sometimes I'll take the time to really scrub everything but for combating rust I'll just pay the $1.50, put it on high pressure rinse and get all the dirt & mud off from everywhere. If you go through a touch wash every week, eventually you'll wear off your clearcoat. Best to just rinse every so often...

Look at my avatar, its a 94' in MI and never been kept in the garage. Still original paint... But, its always been kept clean for 17 years now. Very little rust on 'er. My worst spot is the floor board on the drivers side by my door. That will need a little bit of patch work here within the next year or so. After mudding, I've taken upwords of three hours to wash this thing...
x2

I had my Liberty for 8 years of Wisconsin salt, snow, mud, etc. Cleaning it often is the best defense against rust. Even in winter, we'll get a day here and there when it's mid-30's or even 40. I'll usually take it up to the self-wash and clean the salt off the undercarriage, then rinse it off as good as I can.

When I traded in my Liberty there was one small area of rust coming from a joint in the passenger side step. That's it.
 

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Have your Jeep professionally rust-proofed.
They drill a few holes and oil spray places the dealership rust proof does not reach.
I go back annually for reapplications.
The dealer offers 5yrs warranty against perforation, meanwhile the professional I went to warranties for life (so long as I reapply each year).
I works.
 

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Check out Eureka Fluid Film, it works great, lasts a long time, and won't harm plastic or rubber parts.
 

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Can attest to the drill holes\spray rust proofing. Have a 22 y/o YJ, been, seen done it all through 22 Canadian winters. Looks pristine today, so much so had 3 strangers off the street walk up wanting to buy it. If I recall correctly dealer did it a the time, drilled holes in all hollow points and stuck a snake in there and sprayed or spritzed oil. Ordinarly the body is the first to go, so far the body on mine is outlasting the leaf springs which have been flaking for years (though still good to go for a nother 20 years).

But yes professional rust proofing does work. Did it maybe twice originally and never again, whatever is in there is still doing its thing. Though I don't plan on doing it with my new one.

But yes it does work.:thumb:
 
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