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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a custom front DS and never had one with some many damn little zerks :), I had an Adams before and i only had to grease the one zerk at the front of the DS which my new DS also have.
I was under there yesterday and was casually looking at the back of the DS when i realize i have at least 3 little suckers i can see. pics below. I'll need a needle zerk fitting to pump grease in these bastards but i'm not sure i'll have enogh space to insert the needle tip in there.

51580371042_4e528ffa6a_o by RAM RSM, on Flickr

This isthe one right in the middle, so if there are 2 mini zerks in one u-joint i'll assume the other u-joint will have 2 as well ?
2021-10-12_09-13-51 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

this one seems to be easier and i don't need to take anything off :)

2021-10-12_09-12-58 by RAM RSM, on Flickr



Question is if i can't grease as is cause space contraints i'll have to take disconnect the DS on that end.
I'm not a mechanic but i have tools and the will to learn watching youtube videos for example, but in this instance i haven't been able to find one that shows me what to do here.

Should i put the front wheels in the air to work on the DS ?
Any special racthet i need to take those 4 bolts out ? or a combination wrench ?
Any special torque needed on those bolts?
I think i need to mark the orientation of the DS if i take it off to put it back the same way ?
I guess there ian interval to grease this u-jonts, 10k 20l, 30k miles ?

Thanks a lot for any other pointers
 

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You should have 3, one in the center of each u-joint and one in the centering ball. This is exactly why i went with non greaseable u-joints. So all I have now is the centering ball and I just have to get under there and rotate the DS until I can find a place that the needle will fit. Sometimes jacking the diff or the body up just a little bit will change the DS angle just enough to get a needle in. Unfortunately they dont have non greaseable centering balls
 

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If you disco it at the diff you might be able to open up the CV joint enough to get the thing lubed good. Might be easier to disco it at the diff. Or perhaps just jack it up on the frame so the CV angle opens it up more.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Aight. I'll try all these options and see if can i add grease to the zerks without having to remove the darn thing from the back. i'll start putting the wheels in the air and see if i can access all 3 zerks back there simply rotating the DS. Knocking on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I bought the needle fitting and put the front in jack stands to try to add grease into the mini zerks. Rotated the DS in every direction looking for an opening, jacked the rear by the frame on both sides and tried different angles to see if one of them was going to allowed me to pump grease on those zerks... Sad to say i couldnt find a way to do them without removing the DS. This type of maintenance is not exactly something i was looking to do at every oil change so screw that. I went with a custom DS cause my local driveline shop is literally 15 min away from where i live so i called them a few minutes ago and asked them if they could switch my u-joints so on Monday i'm dropping the Jeep at their shop for a DS rebuild, i'm getting 3 new Spicer solid u-joints, DS rebalanced etc.
 

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The plan is to let the diffs hang causing a sharper angle on the CV joint, opening it up more.
 
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I have the same deal with my front driveshaft. To make matters even better, I have the metal cloak skid plates that also need to be removed to remove the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I only have 3k or so on this DS. I really thought going with greaseable Spicer ujoints was the ticket. Always looking to save some lol. I'm sure they'll last an insane amount of time when greased properly but I'll have no time/patience to deal with the mess of having this type of joints. I'm still cleaning the area close to the trans and engine pan because this things will sling grease all over the place. And that smell when it touches the exhaust and you have windows opened gets on my nerves. I should have spent a little more rigth from the get go. Oh well not the end of the world either way and I'm just happy that I can address the issue to my satisfaction even if it cost me a little more. I learned from this either way so that matters for me :)
 

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I bought the needle fitting and put the front in jack stands to try to add grease into the mini zerks. Rotated the DS in every direction looking for an opening, jacked the rear by the frame on both sides and tried different angles to see if one of them was going to allowed me to pump grease on those zerks... Sad to say i couldnt find a way to do them without removing the DS. This type of maintenance is not exactly something i was looking to do at every oil change so screw that. I went with a custom DS cause my local driveline shop is literally 15 min away from where i live so i called them a few minutes ago and asked them if they could switch my u-joints so on Monday i'm dropping the Jeep at their shop for a DS rebuild, i'm getting 3 new Spicer solid u-joints, DS rebalanced etc.
Have them put in a sealed center ball too....that way the only thing to grease is the slip joint....on a side note greasable u joints are weaker than non greasable....
 
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When i had my local driveshaft shop make my 1310 front shaft they asked me, sealed or greasable?...... was not hard to put in?.....thought?.....hmmmmm?
So i elected to have stronger non greasable. Sealed joints. All. Told them if i have any problems they can rebuild it. Only greasable fitting is the slip joint. Best decision i made .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And it's all done.
I dropped the Jeep at Drivelines Inc this morning and got her back in the afternoon with all Spicer sealed ujoints..only thing I need to grease is the flex one. Thanks again everybody. This forum keeps on rocking :)
 
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