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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I purchased a heavy duty bumper (smittybuilt) for my YJ. But it turns out it is harder to install than I anticipated.
First off, how to remove the rear bumperette? The outside two nut/bolts on either side come off easily and so did the four nuts underneath. The inside ones on the bumperette just turn and nothing happens. I need a way to put another socket from inside the support structure. For this, I think I need to remove the gas tank at the very least. Is this what everybody had to do to get this to work? What gives?
Second, the new smittybuilt bumper is boxed and I see no way to hold the nut/bolt on one side while I tighten from the opposite side, does this make sense?
Can anyone help?

Bumper link: mine is exact same bumper.
Amazon.com: Smittybilt 76750D SRC Classic Rear Bumper with D-Ring: Automotive
 

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Complete PITA! I had to use a u-joint adapter for a socket and a lot of cussing to get it done. Took me 3 hrs from start to finish to put a stock TJ bumper on my YJ. Left one came of fairly easily, but right one took extra work because the tailpipe was added to the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In all honesty, what a poor design. The new bumper Smittybuilt design is even worst. It's inner bolt pattern has no access to hold on to...I mean who designs these stuff. I have no option other than to bolt what I can and weld the rest.
 

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when i took my rear bumperettes off my jeep the inside bolts had some sort of peice of wire welded on to the bolt.. i think we ended up cutting them off from the outside.
 

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Best to drop the tank. I have a specialty ratchet with a pivoting head and a flex joint in the handle to help squirrel around the leaf springs.

They assembled the bumper and suspension before they fit the tanks at the factory. No way to remove the rear factory shackles without lowering the tank or taking an air chisel or grinder to the head of the bolt.
 

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I also have a Shittybuilt rear bumper, I could only get 2 to align on each side.
Took the bumper off and I elongated the other holes on the rear cross member
It is a fabrication problem, not access,
I didn't have to drop the tank
All good
 

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I have the exact same bumper and I thought it was rather easy to install. Grind your old bolts off for the bumperetts. Drop the rear of the gas tank and support it somewhat with a jack. Start by installing one of the easy to reach drivers side bolts loosely. Next lift the bumper and install one of the easy to install passenger side bolts (the bumper is double thick at the bolt holes and threaded so there is no nuts during installation). All your bolt holes should line up now and thread easy. Dont tighten any of the bolts until you have them all started. I would recommend welding the frame tie-ins (on the bottom of the frame) in the end. I didnt need any socket swivels, just a small extension.

 

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I replaced my stock loops with stock loops one time... didn't realize it would be so difficult when I did it. It took 3 of those and I found it was easiest to locate the bolt with my hand, while my eyes were closed and just memorize where everything else was located. The right side is a SOB. It took me about 2 hours. Not looking forward to doing it again when I get a real bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have the exact same bumper and I thought it was rather easy to install. Grind your old bolts off for the bumperetts. Drop the rear of the gas tank and support it somewhat with a jack. Start by installing one of the easy to reach drivers side bolts loosely. Next lift the bumper and install one of the easy to install passenger side bolts (the bumper is double thick at the bolt holes and threaded so there is no nuts during installation). All your bolt holes should line up now and thread easy. Dont tighten any of the bolts until you have them all started. I would recommend welding the frame tie-ins (on the bottom of the frame) in the end. I didnt need any socket swivels, just a small extension.

Another dumb question, how to remove the gas tank? It is easy, heavy(dry or say 1/4 full)?
 

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when i took my rear bumperettes off my jeep the inside bolts had some sort of peice of wire welded on to the bolt.. i think we ended up cutting them off from the outside.
What is that wire? I snapped mine yesterday when "attempting to take the stock bumper off. Something else came up so I never got the bumper off. Just curious what the wire is for?
 

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i got the same bumper it was actually harder putting that damn thing on than swapping an engine......no joke
 

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I just wanted to let people know that it is possible to get the inner bolts off with basic tools seeing as I just did it this afternoon. Some tips:

1. Soak everything in PB Blaster- Not only does this lubricate and remove rust but it also heats up as you start twisting which makes removing the bolts much easier

2. Work bottom up as removing the bottom bolt makes room for the top.

3. Facing the back of the car and working on the left bumperette, have your 11/16 wrench flat on the nut on the back and angled down to the right. Squeeze your fingers in there to hold the wrench flush to the nut then turn the bolt (5/8) and let the gas tank offer the resistance to turning.

4. Repeat for top bolt

5.Working on the right bumperette put your 11/16 wrench flat on the nut and again angle it to the right. Squeeze your fingers in there to hold it flush and this time let your leaf spring/shackle offer the resistance to turning.

6. Repeat for top bolt

7. Take off the outer bolts. This is easy compared to the inner.

This really is a big pain to take off but once you get the jiff it isnt too bad. Also, it might suit you to use a ratchet to hold the nut in place. If you only have shallow or short attachments you will have to loosen it with a wrench until you can get the ratchet around.

Good luck!
 
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