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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So there is this thread...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/howto-installing-a-homelink-from-a-2003-mercedes-slk-289625.html

And it's great, but I didn't have the mirror with auto-dimming, so no convenient wires up there. Also, the Mercedes HomeLinks on eBay were around $70 at the time of me purchasing one, so I went with a different HomeLink for about half the price. I paid $30 on eBay for one like this here:



In retrospect, I wish I would have just paid the extra money for the Mercedes one, as it has a screw to connect the transmitter to the buttons, and the clips on the cheaper one were a real pain the ass to clip through the plastic molding.

So here are some pics of the install, and a few notes.

For the 12v power connection, I went with the 12v outlet below the AC controls. It works only when the key is in the on position, so if you park outside, people can't get into your garage.

Gotta remove the dash. Make sure your battery is disconnected.


Wire connections. Just two wires, black is ground...blue/pink is power.



Did a quick wire connection to the transmitter just to make sure it works. You know how eBay can be....


Threaded to behind the glovebox.


Up the door trim.



Tried going simple on the headboard.



Couldn't get the clips to snap together, so I had to break out the dremel.


At this point, the transmitter is connected through the headboard, but getting it mounted back into the Jeep is not going well. The connector is just sticking out too much. I think this is only because I put the hole too far back. The problem is the plastic starts to roll upward in the front, and that will make the clips even harder to connect. I tried to put it pretty far forward, but somewhere along the way, I screwed up. Guess I didn't follow the old rule: "measure twice, cut once". I thought about giving up and buying a new headboard, but after seeing the price (around $60), I went back to work on it.


Removed the connector from the back of the transmitter, dremeled the little tabs off the back, as well as part of the circuit board.


Couple drops of solder.


Ahh, much more breathing space now.


Headboard snapped in, and everythings working great.


Here is how to program it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvoKBm7h3aY
 

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Nice write up.

☞ Sent from here ☜
 

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Nice. I have the same module. So you think it will fit without needing to mod it if you slide it forward a bit?

EDIT: and how do you get the buttons off the module? I've been squeezing the crap out of the plastic tabs but it won't come loose. Afraid I'm going to break the things. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice. I have the same module. So you think it will fit without needing to mod it if you slide it forward a bit?

EDIT: and how do you get the buttons off the module? I've been squeezing the crap out of the plastic tabs but it won't come loose. Afraid I'm going to break the things. lol.
1. Possibly, but the curve on the front of the headboard may make the little clips harder to snap in. And it's hard enough as it is.

2. The way I did it was to open the whole module, then you can get at the clips from behind. The module opens like a book. You gotta take a small flathead screwdriver and push in the side clips and pry it open.
 

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Did the install today. I put it further forward and yes, the clips would not snap in because it was right near the curve. I did something similar to this guy to get around it: Homelink garage door opener installation

Even so, the back was too long. I needed to take the plug off and solder the wires anyway. So it would up being just as much work if not more.
 

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I'm thinking about installing mine just above the drivers speaker in that flat area. Anything I should be concerned with?
 
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