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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my factory subwoofer doesn't work but I don't know if it's a problem with the speaker or if the PO didn't wire it up to the aftermarket Sony stereo correctly. Does anyone know how to test at the sub side to see which is the problem? I already have the center console out. I'm wondering if I can test continuity or voltage at the plug in the wiring harness without tearing the dash apart.


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Mulimeter
That sub has to be dryed out junk by now, throw it in the trash & Google the different replacement options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah I figured it was junk. I'm trying to figure out if I have one problem or two.


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Don't take it out and hook to a stereo, that's what you get when you ask a question on a public forum, people answering your questions with no clue or experience. Just put your multi meter across the terminals of the speaker and see if you have continuity. You can probably do that without removing the speaker at all. If the meter doesn't move, you have a broken wire in the speaker and it'll never work again. If you have continuity, spkrs. good.
 

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Ya just set the multi meter to ohms and touch to both prongs. You will probably get a reading even with a shot subwoofer. I'll tell you though, I've never had any luck with the factory console sub/amp setup going directly to an aftermarket head unit. I needed an upgraded amp. Or just get a powered sub.
 

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My original factory sub is still going strong.
The factory speAkers were under powered junk from the start ( just like most factory speakers ), highly doubt the sound coming out of any of them is "Strong".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There's no sound at all so is suspect the issue is at the head unit.


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Have you had the head unit out to inspect the wiring harness? Some folks cut the amp turn on wire (which I think is blue) because after installing the head unit they find the factory amp and aftermarket head unit don't jive together. The sub will be over powered at high volume.
 

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If it happens to be a crutchfield or similar harness, try connecting the blue wire to the blue and white wire.


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I want to buy a guitar amplifier with an 18" speaker and hook it up to my home stereo. Is that a bad Idea? What do I need to know to make it work. It will probably be an old one with tubes and such.
 

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I don't know a whole lot about car audio setups (speaker ohm levels, dB speaker rating levels, etc.) but as a vintage home audiophile, the one way we test speaker conditions, is by setting your Multimeter to Ohms.

Prong both terminals, and making sure you have your decimal in the right spot cause some meters allow you to adjust to 100k, take a look at your readings.

If for instance you have a 6ohm speaker, you want the readings to be within +.5 to -1.5 of 6 ohms.

If your readings continue to zero out, that means the speaker has suffered coil damage and is no longer able to work. The price to repair coils is not worth it in your case.

Whatever you do, don't plug it into a home audio signal!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Loopsandlogic. Thanks for the advice. Measured resistance and it is an open circuit so looks something bad happened. I'll order on of the replacement options and with a little luck I won't have to pull the radio and investigate there.


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Loopsandlogic. Thanks for the advice. Measured resistance and it is an open circuit so looks something bad happened. I'll order on of the replacement options and with a little luck I won't have to pull the radio and investigate there.


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Yep, definitely a dead coil.

Look at Kicker's 6.75" dia. DVC subwoofer. dropped right into mine with minor dremel use on the inside to clear the basket. It's been thumping for over a year now and no issues on the OE amplifier.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Help I'm lost. I put a new sub and still nothing. Pulled the Sony radio out. The blue power ant wire coming out of the head unit isn't hooked up to anything. The aftermarket stereo adapter harness has everything wired up to matching colors coming from the stereo except for a brown wire labeled mute and an orange/white wire labeled dimmer. Anyone know what wrong? How do I test the wires coming from the factory amp to make sure it's working? It has four wires red, black, light grey, and dark grey. Looking on the forum it looks like the right combination varies on the new sub. I tried all combinations with no luck. Thanks


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Some more info. I was referring to the diagram for the connector under the cup holder shown at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/...ng-perplexing-1208008/#/topics/1208008?page=1 I'm getting 12v between pins 6 and 12 regardless of ignition position. I'm getting no voltage between 5 and 12 regardless of ignition key position. My gut feeling is that this is the problem but I don't know.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Plot thickens further. The wire running to pin 5 that isn't getting power is bright green. I looked in the back of the factory plug for the stereo and there's no bright green wire. Then I noticed crammed way behind the stereo are three wires and are each wrapped in electrical tape that aren't connected to anything. There's a bright green, a black, and a red or orange with a white stripe. Anyone have a clue or is this the time I learn to live without the sub.




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