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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up an HPD30 out of a 98 XJ this weekend



It has less than 100k on it, 3.07 gears, is 100% stock and is in good condition :thumb:

My plan is to have it regeared out of the jeep when I go to have my rear D44 geared and locked as well. The axle bearings, seals, etc will all be replaced at that time. In the meantime I want to rebuild what I can and sand/paint everything. I would like some advice in a few areas though

-Has anyone had their axle sandblasted/painted? Is it worth the effort/outcome? I was thinking of just wiring brushing and rattle canning until my dad suggested it

-Other than the ball joints and u-joints, is there anything I should service/replace at this time (minus what is to be rebuilt as said above)
 

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I didn't sandblast mine but I used a wire wheel on a grinder & wire brush to clean it the best I could....but mine wasn't near as rusty as yours. I then primed and painted it. definitely worth it IMHO. looks a lot better, especially if you paint the frame and rear axle at the same time.

I welded a 3/8" steel bumpstop pad on each spring perch of mine (I made them). Then I drilled and tapped the center for bumpstop extensions. I also welded a mini-truss on the housing and welded reinforcement to the lower control arm brackets, and boxed in the upper passenger side.

When I did the ball joints & had the knuckles off, I also installed Vanco brakes. I replaced the wheel bearings and reused my factory TJ shafts. Kept the original TJ wheel bearings & XJ shafts as spares. The early TJ/XJ wheel bearings aren't useable if you intend to retain the late model TJ rotors...you need to match either early or late style rotors and wheel bearings...you can't mix and match. If you have the original drag link, pitman arm TRE, steering stabilizer and tie-rod, it's a good to replace all of those as well.
 

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I welded a 3/8" steel bumpstop pad on each spring perch of mine (I made them). Then I drilled and tapped the center for bumpstop extensions. I also welded a mini-truss on the housing and welded reinforcement to the lower control arm brackets, and boxed in the upper passenger side.
I always wondered why your bumpstop pad looked so good on your spring perch. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is 27 spline sufficient for 35s locked or would 30/33 be better piece of mind
 

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Is 27 spline sufficient for 35s locked or would 30/33 be better piece of mind
My personal opinion there is that if you can swing the cost of upgraded shafts, now is the time to do it while everything will be torn apart.
Keeping the extra shafts as spares like UnlimitedLJ does is a great idea if you don't upgrade.

Look to Superior for shaft upgrades. If you are paying someone to install the gears, have some sort of traction device installed too. It would be worth waiting to have that done at the same time to save mega bucks on the install......even if you just go with a lunchbox type locker.


Edit - can I ask how much you payed for it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
150 for the axle, I might've been able to go cheaper but its water under the bridge now

I'd love to upgrade to 30 spline and lock but that'll probably run me another $1400, I'll need to look into it
 

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150 for the axle, I might've been able to go cheaper but its water under the bridge now

I'd love to upgrade to 30 spline and lock but that'll probably run me another $1400, I'll need to look into it
I'd stay at 27 spline....alloys are plenty strong enough. The u-joints are normally the weak point on the D30....and if you keep the stock 27-splines, you can use old shafts as spares just in case you break an alloy shaft or a u-joint...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That makes things a lot easier for the future :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are my current plans as of now

-New CA rubber bushings
-Spicer Ball Joints (feel free to recommend other)
-Superior or Motive R+P 4.88
-Master rebuild kit
-More than likely cryo R+P
-27 Spline Inner/Out Superior Evo shafts

Would it be worth investing in C gaussets?

Can I use the carrier from my LPD30 that has 3.73 for the 4.88 on my HPD30?

I'm thinking of leaving the HPD30 open for now just to ease the burn on the wallet right now. When the time comes for the front ARB will it require shimming/lashing adjustments? I might just bite the bullet and lock now if it'll save me $300 in the long run
 

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Would it be worth investing in C gaussets?

Can I use the carrier from my LPD30 that has 3.73 for the 4.88 on my HPD30?

I'm thinking of leaving the HPD30 open for now just to ease the burn on the wallet right now. When the time comes for the front ARB will it require shimming/lashing adjustments? I might just bite the bullet and lock now if it'll save me $300 in the long run
i wouldn't invest in C gussets...if i was going to install them, i'd make them myself...thats free.

yes, you can use your LP carrier in the HP.

yes, if you gear it to 4.88s in the stock carrier you will need to pay for a whole new gear install if you get an ARB later. do the ARB + gears at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info, I'll have to bite the bullet. It sucks that the super 30 doesn't come with 27 inner/outer shafts, I feel like you save a little on the whole kit vs buying in pieces

Now comes the question, is it worth dropping $2k+ into this? I've looked into it and it doesn't appear that there are any really better alternatives in the $2k-$3k price range. For a real 44 pre built with better knuckles, etc I'd be looking at 5k+
 

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Here are my current plans as of now

-New CA rubber bushings
-Spicer Ball Joints (feel free to recommend other)
-Superior or Motive R+P 4.88
-Master rebuild kit
-More than likely cryo R+P
-27 Spline Inner/Out Superior Evo shafts

Would it be worth investing in C gaussets?

Can I use the carrier from my LPD30 that has 3.73 for the 4.88 on my HPD30?

I'm thinking of leaving the HPD30 open for now just to ease the burn on the wallet right now. When the time comes for the front ARB will it require shimming/lashing adjustments? I might just bite the bullet and lock now if it'll save me $300 in the long run
I would suggest the Synergy Suspension Ball joints, they are a great upgraded ball joint and the uppers and lowers are both easily greasable. Depends on your budget.
Synergy Suspension*::*Synergy Suspension D30/D44 Heavy Duty Front Ball Joint Sets
I have the C gussets on mine, they seem to beef it up quite a bit, I look at them as cheep insurance. Bought mine from Iron Rock.
IRON ROCK OFF ROAD: Dana 30 C Gusset Kit

(only issue with the c gussets is if you are running axle tube seals, you cannot access the grease fitting. I had to pre-drill a hole in the gussets to line up with the grease fitting, then us a needle greaser to get to them.) just an FYI
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've seen those ball joints come up in my research but I haven't seen any real user or long term feedback. How long have you been using them? I don't mind the cost if they will truly outlast the spicers
 

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I also welded a mini-truss on the housing and welded reinforcement to the lower control arm brackets, and boxed in the upper passenger side.
Could you show some pictures of the reinforcements you added? I would also like to know your welding procedure on the nodular iron pumpkin. Things like pre/post heating, etc. A HPD30 is my next project and I think the OP and I could benefit from any info. Thanks!
 

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Could you show some pictures of the reinforcements you added? I would also like to know your welding procedure on the nodular iron pumpkin. Things like pre/post heating, etc. A HPD30 is my next project and I think the OP and I could benefit from any info. Thanks!
Pics are here:
Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 17 - JeepForum.com

For welding on the iron pumpkin, I took the axle to a friend's place. his profession is welding and fab...at one time was certified in pretty much every type of welding except underwater/diving.

We basically followed the procedure outlined on Lincoln Electric's website:
Welding Cast Iron | Lincoln Electric

Set the axle on sawhorses, preheated with an oxy-acet rosebud, used a digital IR thermometer to verify temp, rotated and needed and stick welded it. We used 55-Ni rod (55% nickel, weld is not machinable). Nickel rod welds different than steel rod, this is where the pro experience comes in. Then we wrapped it up with tin foil and wrapped heavy fiberglass welding blankets around it. It held the heat in well and wasn't touchable until about an hour later.
 

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MikalCarbine said:
I've seen those ball joints come up in my research but I haven't seen any real user or long term feedback. How long have you been using them? I don't mind the cost if they will truly outlast the spicers
I have only been using them for a couple thousand miles. Wish i could provide a longevity recommendation for them but i dont think they have been available long enough. They are a fairly new product. My buddy has them in his rig, stricky off road, and he beats them up pretty well and they seem to be taking the abuse.
 
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